Guest geokirk Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I have a slowly leaking brake line/lines, starting at the proportioning valve ($100+) & rear wheel metal lines. I am advised that the labor costs are unclear with a low of $700 and a high of $1200+ if the calipers need to be replaced for bleeding. I have maintained this car to last forever for over 20 years, with 93,000 miles. However, the labor cost of this replacement are staggering. Especially, since I planned to replace my stuck sunroof and purchashed a sunroof top , which still requires installation and painting. Any suggestions for rear brake line replacements and possibly rusty bleeding valves on calipers? Or would I be best of selling the car to a collector who can fix these things? Car has no rust, is working and all original, except Teeves accumulator systems and A/C converted.Tires are like new Goodyear Assurance.Suggetions for a safe brake line fix or sell to a collector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Get another quote, that $1200.00 number seems high. Call a parts house and ask them how much "loaded" [they come ready to install with pads] calipers cost. Buy a used proportioning valve from Jim. Labor to install the calipers should be no more then $100.00 an axle. They have to lower the gas tank to get at the brake line, but I would think no more then 3 hours including a brake fluid flush for that. I would think $700.00 for everything listed above should be closer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 FIX!Why are the lines leaking if there is no rust? The price quoted is WAY too high in my opinion. Are you able to do the work yourself? It's not a hard job to replace the calipers.Proportioning valve ($46), Rebuilt rear calipers ($122 each) and new bleed screws ($3- they come with rebuilt calipers) are available in The Reatta Store. Shipping is usually free.Instructions for bleeding the brakes can be found here as well a other information on the brakes you may need. Brakes - Mechanical Information - Reatta Owners Journal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jimmyk Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Sounds really bad! You should sell me the car for $300. NO just kidding!Find an independant shop that will let you supply the calipers and proportioning valve (from Ronnie or wherever you buy your parts). That should save you about half the cost of parts. A brake/muffler shop should be able to complete this in 3-4 hours time. I think that the $1200 quote really means that that shop is saying "I don't really want to repair your old Buick". A little searching should find you a cooperative shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Corvanti Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 maybe it should go to a crusher since it's not perfect! - sorry bad joke. what Dave and Ronnie said: if you're not mechanically inclined, find another shop! that is way too high of a price. it would be a bonus if the shop will let you supply the parts needed, and purchase them at "The Reatta Store".i'm a "collector" (is that a bad term now?) but would need more info/pics/price on the vehicle if that's the way you want to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest geokirk Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I just came back fro the shop where they kept it up on the lift. Underneath the rear frame, brake and fuel line and caliper holding unit are quite rusted (salt used in my area). I saw where the fuel is leaking from the proportioning valve and follows down the left side. While the right side is not leaking mechanic says he has to cut all lines to replace the valve. Dropping the tank is risky due to potential of breaking gasoline line and sending unit. He feels threading the brakeline up and over is safer. Not sure the I can get the whole thing for a Reatta. I will have to check. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest geokirk Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 The body is clean. There is rust on the frame. I just had a good look. I no longer have the tools or time to take on the job.I tolf the mechaninc to put rust release oild on the calipers overnight. That if they break, I will sell car as-is. So I wll know tomorrow.Is that price for rebuilt calipers include the large steel mount for them to the frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Corvanti Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 (edited) I just came back fro the shop where they kept it up on the lift. Underneath the rear frame, brake and fuel line and caliper holding unit are quite rusted (salt used in my area). I saw where the fuel is leaking from the proportioning valve and follows down the left side. While the right side is not leaking mechanic says he has to cut all lines to replace the valve. Dropping the tank is risky due to potential of breaking gasoline line and sending unit. He feels threading the brakeline up and over is safer. Not sure the I can get the whole thing for a Reatta. I will have to check. Thanks.i think the guy is selling you "a bill of goods" aka: mainly not true. on a '89, all the gas lines to disconnect (except one electrical, if i recall correctly) can be taken off before dropping the tank on the driver's side between the door and rear wheel. some pb blaster should loosen all the bolts, etc. to drop the tank and loosen brake lines. i'd get a second opinion asap. EDIT: just saw your last post - is it "cancer" (holes) or just surface rust? Edited September 4, 2012 by Corvanti (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest geokirk Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I don't think they do like working on it. However, they are use to my finding Reatta parts from the sources here. Then having to research how to fix it. The other day, I gave them a chime unit tfrom a reputable reseller here. They replaced for me, it did not work. Apparently there is a newer part number chime for $200+ !!! . I would like to find one used. I left the headlights on. I wish there was a one stop fix anything Reatta shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest geokirk Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 The rust does not go though. I would not be afraid of anything like a frame failure. It is past what I normally think of as just surface rust, as it it flacky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest geokirk Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Do you know where I can find fully loaded rear calipers? I have tried on-line NAPA, etc. and thus far not found any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Do you know where I can find fully loaded rear calipers? I have tried on-line NAPA, etc. and thus far not found any.The ones in the Reatta Store are loaded brake calipers. Loaded means they come with pads and are ready to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jimmyk Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Geokirk, before this mechanic tears into your car and you end up replacing parts he breaks, maybe take the car out of the shop. If this car isn't your daily transportation, can you let it sit for a couple of days?Anyone here on this forum close enough to Chicago to help this fellow Reatta owner? At least take a look at his car to see if it will be road worthy when this brake line repair is finished. Or refer him to a trusted shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Call Larry Clapool in Frankfort IL. He is an independent shop owner and specializes in Corvairs but works on lots of orphen cars. The address is 21359 S 80th Ave Phone 815-469-2936 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest geokirk Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Barney,Frankfort is 50 miles south of me, as I live near O'Hare airport. Anyone closer? Also, I understand the gas tank fuel sender is no longer available. Is dropping the gas tank risky (also the rear fule line is rusted)Thanks for the tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawja Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Rockauto.com has the rear calipers for cheaper at the moment.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Barney,Frankfort is 50 miles south of me, as I live near O'Hare airport. Anyone closer? Also, I understand the gas tank fuel sender is no longer available. Is dropping the gas tank risky (also the rear fule line is rusted)Thanks for the tips.Here is a tutorial that has instructions on how to drop the tank:Fuel Pump Replacement Instructions - Reatta Owners JournalThanks to 89 Maui for the instructions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest geokirk Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Does anyone know the best remanufacturer? If I am going down the road, I might as well buy the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Life is too short to work on a rusty car. Can see why the shop is reluctant to drop the tank because it may also be fragile/need replacement also. The issue is compounded by the expectation that normally reusable bolts will break and need to be drilled out/replaced.This was part of the reason I moved to Orlando years ago (not the only reason but part of it, I grew up on Florida's east coast & went to school in Michigan).From one standpoint the real mark of a collector car is when the value reaches the MSRP again & the Reatta is just too available.At the same time I am running into a lot of people with new cars and displays who just do not believe the touch screen and diagnostics were available in my 88 but that was only in 88/89 coupes. This makes the 'verts interesting but not landmarks.Bottom line: you are better off starting with a rust-free car than one needing a lot of help, we are unlikely to reach the point where de-rusting is worth while for quite a while yet. OTOH if there is an appeal to you for this car, figure on dropping front and real subframes/cradles and doing proper derusting/rust prevention. Then it will last for quite a while but will also probably never be a national-level show car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol' yeller Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Chicago rust is a lot different than rust I am used to seeing. Once it gains more than a toe hold, it becomes very expensive to repair. My first Reatta was from Chicago and even though it was purchased over 10 years ago, it had definite signs of the dreaded rust creep along the wheel houses and underneath. As the Reatta is a unibody car, rust repairs are expensive and difficult. I have ressurected a couple of rusty cars (again NW rusty) and I found it near impossible to eliminate rust once it starts. Even cutting out rusty metal and replacing it, rust would appear somewhere else. My advice would be to fix the immediate problem and then sell the car disclosing what you know to the next buyer. Price the car according to its condition. If you want another Reatta, there are still plenty out there for not a lot of money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest geokirk Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 The Reatta was fixed! Luckily the caliper bleed valves did work and repair went better than expected. I had a few other minor adjustments done. I love my Reatta I have had for 23 years. I guess I will look for someone to buy for lits ow miles or high price HTF parts (e.g. brand new light switch, Wiper Switch, OEM headlight motor and cam) many working rare items like Reatta antennae, New Goodyear assurance tires and many other replaced or rebuilt items. Working full time on comuters, does not allow me to be mechanical enough and most my tools are long gone to keep up a Reatta. If anyone is interested let me know. When time permits I will fill out the for sale document. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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