Jump to content

1928 FB President - Side bottom apron removal


Guest dalestern

Recommended Posts

Guest dalestern

I've removed the fenders to strip, straighten, and prime, yet the right side apron needs a patch. How are these long bottom apron panels removed? Is it under the interior metal strip finisher at the bottom of the door jamb? Once removed, I have to put a considerable patch, unless someone has a right side apron for sale? Thanks. Dale

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is probably the same as my 27 Dictator. If you crawl under the car and look up at the top flange of the frame, you should see the ends of small bolts coming down through the flange. You need to lift the body to access them.

Terry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest dalestern

Dear Lord!!! I can't believe that I have to lift the entire body to remove those two flimsy aprons. Jeez. Ok then, now how does one lift the body to get at those bolts? Much appreciated BTW. DS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest studepeople
Dear Lord!!! I can't believe that I have to lift the entire body to remove those two flimsy aprons. Jeez. Ok then, now how does one lift the body to get at those bolts? Much appreciated BTW. DS

I don't know what you are doing to your car....full restoration? Cosmetic only, keeping the original top and interior? That will determin what your next step is to pick up the body to get at the splash aprons.

I totally removed the body to restore my President. I went thru the wire mess on the top after removing the old top material for a pattern and saving it for later. Pulled the body off the fram hooking up to the main wood fram rails on the body. But I had to take out the total interior first. Maybe that is not what you want to do? How ever you do this it will be alot of work........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest stude8
I don't know what you are doing to your car....full restoration? Cosmetic only, keeping the original top and interior? That will determin what your next step is to pick up the body to get at the splash aprons.

I totally removed the body to restore my President. I went thru the wire mess on the top after removing the old top material for a pattern and saving it for later. Pulled the body off the fram hooking up to the main wood fram rails on the body. But I had to take out the total interior first. Maybe that is not what you want to do? How ever you do this it will be alot of work........

post-31139-14313913764_thumb.jpg

This is a 1929 [or 1928?] factory photo of the body drop onto the chassis with the splash aprons already on chassis and the cork welt on top.

The chassis parts book (Group O15) says the Running Board Splashguard has 12 bolts to the frame [1/4-20 x 3/4"] so lifting the body high enough to remove the 24 bolts, flat & lock washers and nuts and replace them is your problem. On my 1928 Victoria I see 8 Bolts from front fender flanges to the splashguard and several from rear fender flanges to the splashguard, whether these are the 12 bolts listed in part catalog and the splashguards are only resting the frame rails and rely on the body hold down bolts to secure them is unknown to me.

Jacking the body after removing the hold down nuts & washers and loosening the steering column at the dash board, gear shift linkage to trans then vacuum gauge copper tube and electrical wiring from engine compartment to body could be just using floor jacks with left and right side front to rear 4x4 wood floor reinforcement blocks. Not a half hour job by any means.

Stude8

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest dalestern

Well my friends, it sounds like those splash guards are staying right where they are. She's straight as an arrow, but the right splash guard oddly has @ 10" missing from it. I'll just have a good body man fabricate a piece to patch it properly without removing it. The deck wood and wire mesh are intact, but the top material is all gone, and need someone to replace it. I need to replace the levers on the steering wheel, and the knobs on the dash. I'm pulling the dash out to restore the instrument cluster and gauges, and send it out for a fresh coat of wood grain. Interior is original but the moth eaten mohair should be restored (I have a good upholstery guy that does antique couches). The body is all various shades of primer, but she runs like a top. I'm going to go at her with a soda blaster, in and out. I'll put her on a lift to clean the entire drivetrain, then paint it. I'll basically blast every inch of this old girl. I've had great luck using a soda blaster to gently blast an engine and drivetrain clean, as well as wood without a lick of damage, and it washes right off. I have a lot to take apart and send off the the plater as well. I'll probably have to make casts of my interior handles, as well as the bars, and the "8" on the front of the radiator, as mine are all pretty rough. I've got all the service bulletins and the parts book, but they certainly don't tell the whole story, so I'll just have to figure it out. I'm jumping in with a bunch of tools, a lot of heart, and a little bit of common sense. Wish me luck. I'll ask an occasional question here every once in a while, unless there's a better way to get answers to questions. Feel free to email me if you can think of any minefields that I'll step into. Thanks a bunch.

Dale Stern

Los Angeles CA

Edited by dalestern
Remove email address (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest stude8

post-31139-143139138484_thumb.jpg

When you get into the light, spark and throttle levers on the steering column here are a few photos of what to expect once into the system. A fellow named Steve Munts was the last one I knew of who had reproduced the levers and pedestle in bronze but that was 5 years ago or more. You will find the 3 levers and pedestle swaged onto the steel column tube are zinc diecast and all crumbling from age that need to be replaced with bronze or brass reproductions. The pedestle has to be brazed onto the steel tube. The rest is just assembled with screws.

The first 3 images show the crumbled original parts with the bronze repro pieces, then the braze operation to reattach the pedestle piece and the reassembled cluster ready to reinstall in column.

Last photo shows steering column lowered from instrument panel down onto seat to get enough distance inside body to remove the lever cluster, this also requires loosening the steering gear box bolts from frame, not as bad as it sounds really.

Stude8

post-31139-143139138462_thumb.jpg

post-31139-143139138467_thumb.jpg

post-31139-143139138469_thumb.jpg

post-31139-143139138471_thumb.jpg

post-31139-143139138473_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest manitoba27stude

i understand steve munts is no longer producing any parts (health issues?)

i see exactly what i'm getting into,found a lathe, working on a milling machine and building a foundry.working towards making a few castings for the 27.two years of tooling up and a little picking at parts and pieces,seems like nothing to show so far.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...