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Need advice on nailhead


Guest btate

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Guest btate

I just checked my compression on my 264 ci engine and the read out ranged from 100, 95 and 90 was the lowest and engine starts fine and does not smoke. The rear main leaks and that is about it. I am restoring a 55 Buick Special. I will drive it about 3 or 4 thousand miles a year. There's a certain good feeling to know if you are driving a solid car or not and I am factoring that in to a certain extent in regards to making a decision, whether to buy a rebuilt 322ci or not, for $5000. It would have everything new including rods pistons, cam but not new crank. All rebuilt heads etc. what do you think? any help appreciated.

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If it were mine, no way would I spend $5000 to replace that 264. That is not a bad difference in compression figures at all. How many miles on the 264? Might be time for a valve job, and that's all it might need. Valve jobs are a LOT cheaper than $5000 for a new engine.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, TX

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What was the compression on this engine when it was new? Does anyone know?

140-155 for the 264 and 155-170 for the 322. My 322 has 120 due to the only available low compression pistons and that is probably what you will get in the $5000 engine. I would not worry about numbers as long as it runs good...and run is what it probably needs. Drive it like you stole it and then recheck.

If you do put in the 322 be sure to use a 322 harmonic balancer AND flywheel/flexplate since they are not interchangeable between the two engines.

Willie

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Guest btate

Seems from I formation I have received regarding the compression being un even is not a good thing according to one specialist. So, I am now considering installing an LS 1 with 4L60 transmission

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In all my years working on cars, I have never learned exactly what a specialist is. Uneven compression, as stated here, could be as simple as a valve job.Shoot some oil down the low cylinder through the plug hole, and take another compression test. if it raises it could be rings. If it isn't smoking, can't be too bad. If it is just valves if would be a lot cheaper than installing an LS1. Or ignore my advice as I am not a specialist. LOL ):

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When you took the compression test, did you pull all the plugs before you tested it? If you pull one at a time and/or don't block open the throttle, your readings will likely be low. As stated above, drive it for awhile! Why spend money you don't need to spend? Old cars take enough as is.

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Apparently the car needs "restoration" at some level. That would indicate that routine maintenance has not been performed and most likely the car has been sitting.

When an old car sits for a long period of time the pistons end up resting in various locations in the bore. Pistons at the top are in a higher wear area and rest with the rings somewhat expanded. Pistons at the bottom of the bore are a bit tighter and squeezed into the ring lands.

When you revive the car you will find higher compression on the cylinders with expanded rings and the gummed up lower ones will be low on compression. I used to service a Hudson Straight Eight that demonstrated this condition very well. Four low and four high every time it came out of storage.

Once the car was started and run about 200 miles all the compression readings were equal. The car ran fine and did not need a rebuild, or an LS-6, or any other imagined stuff; just to be driven.

If you drive your car a minimum of 15 miles per week it will stay in good operating condition and always maintain it's highest value.

I live near Rochester, New York. If I think my car needs tuning or is not running as well as it should I think of a good place in Syracuse to have lunch, maybe Buffalo. When I get home it is usually running fine. Nothing better than splashing hot oil inside an engine to make it happy.

Bernie

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If you drive your car a minimum of 15 miles per week it will stay in good operating condition and always maintain it's highest value.

I concur.

I like to add another 100 miles to the 15 miles every week. Cars shows are nice. Drivin'em is much more fun! :o

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Guest btate

Thanks for all these reply's. I cant wait to let my mechanic read these comments. Several of my friends have asked me why I wanted to stay with the nailhead and my answer is many. First I wanted to retain the Buick theme, second I explained to one friend engineer that I didn't want to re engineer the drive train. I said, remember these GM engineers were pretty good engineers and they did great study on these cars not to mention when they did make changes from year to year great thought and re engineering went into it and much more than we will ever know, as now and then designing is a compounding effect. The stablizing bars from rear axel is connected to the torque tube and it floats up and down. Now, if I made a major change then these bars would have to be attached to a fixed surface, plus would have to change the rear end. Then I am re-engineering the car and that is something I don't want to do. I will be adding power steering and A/C to the work load of the engine. I will find out if my mechanic removed all the plugs when he did his test. I am thinking I will stay with the 264ci engine and find a 3 groove harmonic balancer, remove the weight and have a machine shop re-balance and just make a pulley out of it A harmonic balancer may be hard to find, anybody!!! I would like for the heads to be done but since these heads take more care than normal, I guess, I will not have the heads done.. Anybody!!! Am I on the right trail?

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Guest btate

I did contact the fellow, actually talked with him today again. The engine was actually built by a local vo-tech student, it was his project for the year. There's no front cover, no intake manifold or exhaust, the cost is good and you get the block and heads. Who would no if the internal parts are right. I thought about buying it and send to Russell Martin with Centerville Auto in California as he has a 322 with frozen pistons as he may could make something out of the two of them. I would still be out about $6500. By the time I add in freight. So, I think I will remove the heads from my 264 and send to Pro-tech in Fresno, Cal to recondition. He is suppose to be very good according to an written article I read. But, who knows! Do you know any one closer to Chattanooga? Then all I need is to figure how to get that 3 groove pulley off that wall and I will be set. Know, I still need a 2 groove water pump pulley.

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Guest btate

Forgot, I want to add a four barrel and I have located a four barrel manifold but need a carburetor. Do I have to use the WCFB Carter? Can I get a more up to date carb? Is there an adapter plate for a carb other than the Carter?

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So, I think I will remove the heads from my 264 and send to Pro-tech in Fresno, Cal to recondition. .

Is the car running on all 8? If so, why take off the heads and send them out? Literally, you need to drive this car some more before you can realistically analyze what's wrong with it. Otherwise, IMO, you'll be throwing money down the drain. Get the brakes and suspension safe, and put some miles on it, and then decide what it needs, if it needs anything.

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Be careful about rebuilding "parts" of your engine. Things wear out evenly. Say a car shows 60,000 miles. That's 60,000 miles of wear on the valves, pistons, bearings, and so on. If you rebuild the heads that will tighten up the seats and valve closure and generally increase compression in the cylinders. That pressure is likely to blow by the 60,000 mile worn rings and into the crankcase.

"I just did a valve job and now smoke comes out of the road draft pipe." Ever heard that one? With engines you can either rebuild it all or fix a broken part leaving the general wear in sync.

I had a '56 Olds once and during the first week of driving after its long previous owner's storage, one valve moved a little slower than it should have. The piston smacked it and bent it. I only repaired the single valve. As far as I know the car is still running nicely somewhere. It drove and ran great. And I avoided an embarrassing puffer (like some friends have created). Be careful and learn from the mistakes of others.

Bernie

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Guest btate

The car seems to be running on all eight but since I pulled the engine and transmission in order to paint the fire wall and in general clean the complete bottom. Just seemed like the time to do the heads since it is not all that costly, of course I am not sure of the cost to do the heads. I need to find out. I pull the eng and tx to do a good job on the fire wall paint and finish the bottom with either truck bed coating or POR 15

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Guest btate

Forgot, I want to add a four barrel and I have located a four barrel manifold but need a carburetor. Do I have to use the WCFB Carter? Can I get a more up to date carb? Is there an adapter plate for a carb other than the Carter?

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