Jump to content

200-4R Swap on Stock Cross member


Recommended Posts

Well, I'm going to do the trans swap - replace my ST-300 in my '66 Skylark with a 200-4R.<P>Contacted a trans shop which was recommended by racing friends. Told the owner what I wanted and that the car is not raced. He wasn't familiar with the Skylark, so I mailed him the August 2000 issue of Hot Rod.<P>He read it and told me it was a common job for him. But, he wanted it to be a pick-up-the-next-day job, and swapping the stock cross member for a different one would cause delays. The Hot Rod article involved installing a Chevelle x-member, and he doesn't have one available.<P>So, his question for me was: can the 200-4R be installed on the stock cross member, knowing that it will block the pan bolts?<P>If it can, then he can proceed with his estimated schedule, and I can come back at some future time with a Chevelle cross member and he will swap that in.<P>I told him that I believed the stock cross member would work if moved back, and we set a date for the 24th. Is this right? Will the 200-4R bolt down OK?<P><P>------------------<BR>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

John,<P>Yes, I would like that info.<P>However, my immediate question is if anyone has tried this swap with the stock crossmember, and for some reason, they could not complete the install. I've heard about the pan bolt access problem, but that is another issue to deal with later.<P>Anyone had any other problem bolting a 200-4R to a stock BOP A-body crossmember?<P>------------------<BR>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yellow,<P>I'd have a reservation about the tran guy's insistence that it be a 'pick-up the next day' job. I've researched several outfits here that do the work and they are all 3-5 days to allow for linkagages setup, parts locating/installation road testing, fine tuning and recovery from Mr. Murphy's help. Remember, there's always time and money to do it correctly the second time. <P>That said, I invite your attention to:<BR> <A HREF="http://www.atlantabuick.com/NFSArticle.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.atlantabuick.com/NFSArticle.htm</A> <P>It is a very comprehensive 200R4 swap into a '67 GTO with a TH400. I've not had a chance to dissect the article in it's entirity, but in part two, there are pictures that seem show the use of the stock crossmember...and I think I remember this as the same as the ST 300 setup. <P>Hope this helps. I'll get the other info at home this evening.<P>John<BR><p>[This message has been edited by John Chapman (edited 04-16-2001).]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks John,<P>I was familiar with this article, but downplayed it due to the Pontiac/TH400 outfit that they were upgrading.<P>Re-reading it, the article shows that the TH400 uses the same crossmember as my ST300, just set differently. And, you are right, there is a photo of the 200-4R bolted to it. <P>So, there's my answer. <P>------------------<BR>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

John,<P>This guy was highly recommended by people who run and frequent a local speed shop. Seems to be choice of local racers.<P>So, while I'm not a racer, I'm relying on the fact his main business is non-stock transmission work, and guessing that he should be able to deal with the adaptations that are part of any swap.<P>Hope I'm guessing right.<P>------------------<BR>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm putting a 200-4r in my 67 Skylark. Although mine is alittle different in that I'm switching out the 300 and replacing it with a 455. We had to remove and reweld the brackets in a new location (about the same lenght as the brackets). It fits just fine. Jock

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a virtual bolt in. He will have to slide the X-member back is all. I even re-used my almost new TH400 rubber mount. The linkage will bolt right up and only needs adjusted so you can get manual low. No modifications are required other than sliding the x-member back, drilling new holes in the frame, bending cooler lines, and adding the brackets for the TV cable, I think we used a filer for a '91 Cad RWD. I did the TV bracket, and a buddy and me did the swap from a TH400 in about 5 hours including beer and a couple distractions.<P>I dunno why they thought the x'member had to be changed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, I have a '64 with 455. Yours should be easier if anything. Go with the lockup converter if you can. withthe stock 2.73 gear you will be idling down the highway at about 75 mph.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adam - apparently the stock crossmember blocks access to the rear pan bolts of the 200-4R, which is why maintenance may be difficult, and the curved Chevelle crossmember may be a better long-term solution.<P>However - you've brought up another question.<P>The trans guy thinks that I should have a non-lock-up converter. Says that the only benefit of the lock-up in my case would be a very slight mileage increase, and that it would not be worthwhile.<P>My car has the 340-4 engine and a 3.08 rear. It is a sunny weekend driver and is not raced. Is he correct?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

YL...<P>Here's my $.02 worth gleaned from much research into 200R4 vs.700R4, etc.<P>Go for the lockup converter. While the milage increase is small (3-8%), the most important benefit is to eliminate converter slippage in overdrive. Prolonged slippage will cause overheating and shorten transmission life. While your at it, check out the various vendors for the converters. IMHO, this isn't an item to skimp on, even for a weekend cruiser. The info that I posted earlier has links to the vendors.<P>Personnally, I think you'd be happier with a higher numerical gear ratio. I'm planning on going from my 2.78 to around 3.3/3.4 with a posi. With the 3.08 gear, the effective ratio in overdrive is 2.06 (200R4 OD is 0.67). This calculates out to about 1300 RPM @ 50MPH and 1800 RPM @ 70MPH (15" wheels), which is a bit low for best engine operation. Plus, with the 200R4's much lower first gear, you'll be a real stop light terror...heh, heh, heh. Thoes Rice Rocket Tweakers will never know what happened!<P>Cheers,<BR>John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

YL...<P>As promised earlier, here's the website for the outfit that was selling the tubular crossmembers for the 200R4 conversions. The site isn't much and talks mostly to the 700R4, but they had a lot of 200R stiff at the swap meet and seemed very knowledgeable about the 'A' body conversion.<BR> <A HREF="http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/</A> <P>Cheers,<BR>John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Yelowlark, in your case it wouldn't be as important to have the lockup, but on the other hand, it would allow you to get a little more pep when taking off and better mileage on the highway, kinda like the old guy described. If the price isn't much different, I'd go with the lockup. If it is, regular should be fine. I would think a stock replacement regal lockup converter would be the ticket for your car.<P>As for the crossmember and pan clearance; I've had the pan off mine 3 times already (I won't get into that). If you don't mind using an end-wrench on the one bolt above the crossmember, it isn't a problem. <P>They just wanted you to use a Chevy part on your Buick!<BR>Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oops, sorry if that was too little too late. I don't frequent this board too much, but the GSCA board is down for a week now. frown.gif" border="0 I'm having withdrawals!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adam -<P>No good advice is ever too late. Well...maybe "look out!" might be.<P>The car went into the shop today for the swap. Hope to get it back in a few days. It will have the non-lockup convertor.<P>Good to hear that you have gotten the pan off with the stock crossmember, as that was my original question. <P>I can't wait to drive the car wink.gif" border="0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll love it! <BR>I wonder why it took companies so long to do such a thing. My cam is too big to drive mine locked up in O/D under 75 mph with 3.73 gears. Your engine should be fine and cook along at a REALLY low RPM. smile.gif" border="0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...