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Started body work this week. Been doing alot of research though Eastwood and after a few hours of studying we made the command decision to press with doing it all ourselves. The body is straight, there are only a few areas of concern, no rust just dents. Staying with out budget plan we are stripping the paint by hand (and power tools). Spent the morning updating our website (link in my sig), here is a teaser pic.

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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-EpoxyShield-2-gal-Gray-High-Gloss-2-Part-Epoxy-Garage-Floor-Coating-Kit-251870/100671422#

Be suggestion I can give ya. TWO COATS of paint. We painted it in sections and added th sprinkles as we went. We missed a few small spots and once we put the clear coat down they stood out. And Use the clear coat, if not the paint is porous and not easy to clean. The clear coat I just mop the floor.

edit, BTW I havent mopped the floor since I started the car project 18 months ago.

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Website pix look awesome! Thx for posting. I still have some rust repair to deal with on my floors before I strip & paint the undercarriage. Do u mind posting what steps u took that made taking the old undercoating off easier & what u did for paint prep (ie sanding or wire wheel)? How many cans of the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator did u need for the job?

Thx

David

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I removed the undercoating around the tranny tunnel using a heat gun and paint scraper, came right off. I wire brushed and scuff sanded the entire underside by hand. I applied one coat of Eastwoods Rust encapsulating paint by brush (a little less than a can did the job). I top coated that with Eastwood underhood black (by spray can). I DID NOT Strip the wheel wells, I simply cleaned them with a stiff brush and blasted a new coat of undercoating in each wheel well, to clean up what was there and cover some cracked/missing areas. I felt thats an area that takes abuse and simple paint wouldnt be durable with the dusty driving conditions we get out here in Vegas.

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I know how lucky I am but it wasnt completely rust free. I did have to do two small patches on the floor, but a majority of it was simple hole fills with the welder. I do have some rust started around the windshield and rear glass that will require treatment, but didnt need anything more than that. Im even more fortunate that I only have three dents to worry about, one drivers side right where the sail panel comes down. One on passenger side rear quarter, where the previous owners allowed something hard to hit the side of the trunk and pushed it out and the right rear corner has a small dent, like they backed the bumper into something at sometime. Other than that, the car is factory straight. I should be spraying primer next week.

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I know how lucky I am but it wasnt completely rust free. I did have to do two small patches on the floor, but a majority of it was simple hole fills with the welder.

I should be spraying primer next week.

Hello Chris, looking good. Thank you for posting.

Congrats on the rust repair I wish I were in your shoes right now. But I am grateful that you and Rob J are a few steps (more like A LOT lol) ahead of me on our builds because I am the least experienced one & you guys (well everyone here) are great at sharing...thank you

I also have small problems on my floors & had to cut out a section on the driver side (first time, never done anything like this before)....I will be posting that experience on my build thread

Did you have any problems filling the holes in your floor boards with the welder? Did you have to wire wheel away the surface rust before zapping it? My inexperienced welding is looking pretty shabby on scrap metal but still determined to learn.... I thought I could fill the holes also & I was told welding the holes in won't work?? How do you advise??

Also, did you weld in the unused factory holes throughout the floors or did you leave them alone? I found these holes had not been plugged up they only had the thick factory tar paper over them. One 5/8" hole is right where your right heel would rest while your foot is on the accelerator pedal...one 1/2" hole at the top of the trans tunnel positioned underneath the console towards the rear...the last two 1/4" holes are under the back seat (one on the left and one on the right...these both had a mountain of seam sealer over them).

For reference, I tried your website looking for the pictures of your welding patch work & hole fills. But I couldn't find them, I may have just overlooked them. Would you mind posting those pix here or on your site if they are not there already?

Lastly, when laying your primer, will you be doing that in the garage?

thank you so very much...keep up the good work...

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My holes were not even 1/2 inch, The bottom two circles in the picture I was able to just tack weld shut. The metal around the holes in the upper circle had deteriorated alot, so I cut out a square of sheetmetal and welded it in. My welding sheetmetal skills isnt that hot but with alot of patience I got it done. The metal kept melting as I went because the rust had weakened the surrounding metal a bit. I am doing rust encapsulating paint all through the trunk and passenger area, and glass mounting flanges tomorrow. I will post pics once its all done, the grinding marks make it hard to see clearly.

Note to you and Rob make sure you look at the underside of your trunk (inside the quarter panels) I have a TON of surface rust along the 'roof' of the trunk and at the tops of the wheel wells. Places you dont see without making an effort. I spent three hours today with a wire brush sand paper and a wirebrush drill attachment stripping it and Im still not 100% ready for paint yet.

Once the rust encapsulating paint is down I will be ready for primer on the body.

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Are you doing the rust conversion before the encapsulating? Rust never sleeps; convert the FE02 into something more stable before sealing it.

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If u are referring to the underside of the metal underneath the rear package tray as the "roof" of the trunk…then I did notice that I have a lot of surface rust there too… but never thought about checking the tops of the inner quarter panels in the trunk area…thank u

David

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David, just for you I pause and took these this morning. I know it doenst look pretty but the job is done.

Ed I used a 'rust remover I got at the local hardware store first then coated with Eastwood's rust encapsulator

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Looks like Ms. America compared to my ugly duckling practice patch work on scrap panels lol thank you

You are making some serious progress. Looking good

David

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Got the door skins hung, sanded and all the main body primered. Didnt realize how many dents I have to work on, mostly the door skins from door dings.

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Didnt realize I havent updated this with the paint. So here ya go

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So the car has been painted. My son moved back to Vegas, now that his school is done and been focused on his new job. All the parts are here and all machine work has been done it just needs to be assembled. Im focused more on getting the car back together right now, with the rear windows completed and the doors needing to be rebuilt.

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Due to the Vegas heat we pretty much didnt do anything since May, but the past few weekend have gotten some smaller stuff knocked out. Had to take my wife to England to see her mom before she passed away (which hit the time line and budget abit...but worth it) Passenger door window install tomorrow.

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Gotta love being back in the garage. Passenger windows done, took alot of tweaking to get them aligned right. New fuzzies installed on exterior trim and trim installed, door skin back on and fender is hung in place. Needs some wet sanding to get to the finish of the rest of the car. Passenger side exterior should be complete tomorrow.

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Passenger side is complete, drivers side window on hold for a new seal for the window frame. The afternoon sun all those years in the desert dried out the drivers side channel seal so bad it fell apart when I put the window in. We started the engine rebuild, I identified that the #7 & 8 cylinders have been sleeved. #7 threw a rod sometime in the past and it broke the skirt of the #8 wall too, but this sleeve work was done ages ago and it worked well with the previous owner, who had no clue. Bottom end is together, heads should go on next weekend.

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I also updated my website with pics and added some interesting family history.

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Im almost done with the engine rebuild, but we just took a huge step backwards. Putting it together the way it came out of the car, I just identified that the timing chain cover is not a 65, but an earlier 50s model. There are no timing marks on the cover, so no way to time the engine once its running. Luckily I havent torqued the balancer on yet, so removing the cover wont take long at all. Glad I caught it now and not after I was ready for a first crank in the car.

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