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alini

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I know I like watching peoples projects from start to finish. So I am using my personal site Welcome to the Home of Ali'N'I to show off ours. I plan on posting updates of my build in this thread, you can always book mark the page and come back whenever you like to see how we are doing. Each major milestone of the build will get documented. Tonight we cleared the trunk since its easier than the interior ;) which I plan on doing tomorrow.

Here is some pics to keep you interested. Alot more photos are on the site.

IMG_0683.JPGIMG_0684.JPG

Edited by alini (see edit history)
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Guest Rob J

I will certainly be following this thread. Love the build threads. Trunk looks nice and solid. Your off to a good start.

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So today I gutted the interior (except the dash, console and headliner) and pleasantly surprised at the condition of the floor. I have two small problem areas which I can patch with some sheetmetal.

I have a MIG, so this will be cake. What I am wondering about is the body sealer. Its coming off very easy, is there a product to replace it or is it even needed with todays primers??

IMG_0730.JPGIMG_0731.JPG

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Guest Rob J

Nice, awesome to find a solid car underneath. How's the condition of the rear window sills? Not sure if you've taken out the back glass yet. That's probably the biggest problem area on these cars. My seam sealer was old and crumbly as well. Clean and remove all the old stuff, and yes, I'd re seam seal all the seams. You want the car to be water tight.

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Most any auto paint store will have some choices of seam sealer, I used the one below. It's easy to work with and stays where you put it. There are some tricks to putting it on it you want a more concourse look. I've used rags soaked with lacquer thinner (after it tacks) or paint brushes (right away) to get the wiped-on look of the original.

You need to treat the rust in the seams first, then prime and put on the sealer then paint. I've done this on quite a few cars now with great results.

post-74569-143139086326_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

So far, we have removed everything from the front doors back (drivers door still needs to be stripped) I removed the rear window trim and windshield trim and no rust. The passenger door came apart like it was new. The window tracks will need some attention. But all in all the tear down is going along well.

Here is the sand we removed from the bottom of the passenger door. I really think thats what prevented the rust. The sand absorbed any rain water and kept the metal dry.

IMG_0828.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm trying to stay up beat. I only need to drop the gas tank, disconnect the emergency brake and the accelerator linkage and the body will be ready to be removed. I'm hoping I didnt bite more than I can chew though. While the condition of the car has been good overall, the interior and anything rubber has been useless. All the vacuum lines for the AC were dry, cracked and in most cases disconnected. The jute was dry and loose, so I dont know the real size shape or location for any of it. The rubber seals were none existant or charcoal, so I dont know how it all really fits when I get around to that part of the reassemble. The wiring connectors are all so brittle they have fallen apart, I'll have to put it all back together by color via the wiring diagrams.

Ive done a ton of photos as I have gone (will get the website updated later this week) but with everything as dust coated as it was I dont have detail to really help. Positioning is about all they will help with. I have confident in my skill and I have all the time in the world to put this thing back together. Gonna do small sections at a time and stay focused on the end goal, a restore of a classic.

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Guest Rob J

Yes, these cars are more work than your average muscle car restoration. I wouldn't be so concerned as to where the factory jute was, as you should be using newer sound deadening materials when you put the car back together. Common sense should dictate where sound deadening material goes. If you need any help in putting it back together, the car I'm restoring now was unmolested, so I have good documentation as to when I was taking it apart. Good luck, and stay focused. Like you stated, just concentrate on one area at a time. Like for instance, now I'm focusing on the chassis, and am not really even looking at anything related to the body yet.

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I have a pretty organized plan, we're stripping down to the frame. I am cleaning the frame by hand (with tools of course) and will replace suspension pieces as I save up the cash to do the media blast on the body. I plan on getting the media blast, body work and paint done with the body off the frame. The suspension, trans and engine will all be worked frame off. Once its all done put the body on the frame, install insulations/deading materials, rebuild the firewall (heater core/AC) and then rewire the body. The fenders / engine wiring/ grille. The interior/windows will be last piece I plan on tackling. I think thats the most systematic way of doing it. Just reminding myself that Im in the very early stages and I'll will be worth all the work.

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Guest Steeleco

Alini, I am very jealous of you and Rob J. You guys have patients and great work ethic. Good luck on all of this. When your car is done I'm sure it will be like brand new. I have a 63 Riv that is probably not worth a real restore, but the work I have done has made it fun car. I can't beleive how much stuff actually works well on the car.

Keep it up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Guest rsmalling

great web page Chris! Good Lord you aren't kidding about the dirt and sand, did you get it from Baghdad? :D

Keep up the good work!

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The car was in outdoor storage for the past 10 years in Las Vegas. The storage lot was nothing but a big dirt lot. When the guy parked it in 2002, the storage yard was a chain link fence. Its now a brick wall and the storage place changed hands 3 times. I did find out more history about the car, its originally an Idaho car, moved to San Diego for a few months before ending up in Las Vegas in 1994. It was titled in Mississippi but was never in that state. The paint on the car dates back to pre-1994, there is an Idaho dealers sticker visible on the back. So far I can account for three other owners. The original, the person who bought it at a use lot (hence the sticker on the back) and the guy who picked it up and I bought it from.

Edited by alini (see edit history)
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Just a quick update. Got the pylons built for the body stand. Started taking the body bolts out. Got 4 with no fight, the 5th started to so I ran it in a bit and oiled it. Taking a break for the day. Its 108 out, so pleased with what I got done today

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Got the glass out. Did the windshield Thursday, back glass today. Didnt even use the wire on the back glass, I have a curved pick that I used to pull the sealant out with. Since the back glass is a solid piece I was more comfortable being rough with it. The sealant on the rear window had gone solid in a few spots and you can see that water could get in. But the best part. NO RUST!!!

Right now my last stumbling block to face in the tear down, The engine. The oil level is about 1/2 quart high. Since the engine has been sat for 10 years, I would have expected it to be LOW, not high. I'm afraid water has rusted through something and the water has settled in the pan, under the oil. once we get the body off, we will disassemble the top half of the engine to start checking it out.

The Riviera

The engine if useable will be sent to my son who is a student at the School for Automotive Machinists. As part of his education he will be doing a full rebuild of the engine, to include port and polish the head with flow bench to ensure its the same across the board. Our goal is a streetable 400hp/500lbs 401 engine. But first to make sure we can use the engine.

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We have body off the frame. Lessons learned for those thinking of tackling this in your own garage.....you need ATLEAST 6 folks. We did it with 5 and if I had to do it again I wouldnt. We looked it over once we were done about what we would do different next time. Our plan using engine hoist (with casters) at the front and rear. Let the hoist do the lifting and use the man power to muscle the stands around. This was madness. If it werent for the motivation of my friends to get it on the stand come hell or high water, I would have just said screw it and bolted the body back on.

IMG_1005.JPG

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Yep, I had six guys remove the body off of my frame. This car is no joke. One was my 275 lb. body builder cousin, and it went rather smoothly and effortlessly, but as you said, I'd not want to attempt a body removal with anything less than six guys. Congrats, now enjoy the fun of ripping the chassis all apart.

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Guest RivieraBear

Chris:

On a 63 Riviera: Do you (or anyone) know if it's possible to just take out a couple of the body bolts on the right side only to lift the body slightly so that the CHP can see the hidden chassis number that's stamped on the top of the frame rail? I can't finish the registration process until I can do this. The CHP in El Cajon CA did not have enough room between the top of the frame rail and the underside of the body to even get an inspection mirror in there to find and see the number. Perhaps it would be a good idea to replace whatever body cushions/bushings/bumpers are there at the same time.

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks very much!

Colin

San Diego CA

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Guest RivieraBear

Chris:

CHP told me where it is, just need to know if I can raise the body just slightly on the passenger side. The number is on the top of the frame rail between 20" and 30" aft of the first frame bolt.

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Which 'First frame bolt' are you refering to? The body bolt for the inner fender? Thats gonna put 30 inches just behind the spring perch. 30 inches aft of the first main body bolt is just in front of the cross. Ive checked my frame and I dont have a number in either place so far.

I'm leary about just saying yes remove the body bolt and lift the body a 1/4 inch to access it because depending on how far back you you are talking there is alot of things that will flex if the car is together and I dont want to see your fenders get out of alignment. There is enough flex in things like the fuel line, brake line, coolant and wiring to allow for movement but I wouldnt take a complete car body bolt out to access the top of the frame myself, especially if its to access the middle. Once I find my frame number I can give you a better guess where to look for yours.

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Chris:

On a 63 Riviera: Do you (or anyone) know if it's possible to just take out a couple of the body bolts on the right side only to lift the body slightly so that the CHP can see the hidden chassis number that's stamped on the top of the frame rail? I can't finish the registration process until I can do this. The CHP in El Cajon CA did not have enough room between the top of the frame rail and the underside of the body to even get an inspection mirror in there to find and see the number. Perhaps it would be a good idea to replace whatever body cushions/bushings/bumpers are there at the same time.

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks very much!

Colin

San Diego CA

Here's a link showing the VIN on a '65. I agree, trying to raise the body will cause more problems than it's worth. Why won't the CHP accept the VIN on the cowl tag? Yours is the only story I've heard about this.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/1965-Buick-Riviera/149461030162#!/photo.php?fbid=149477575162&set=a.149475630162.123126.149461030162&type=3&theater

Dave had to hit this hard with a pneumatic scaler and a wire brush wheel in order for it to show up. You might be in the right place and be able to see it 'as is' if you can get 49 years of crud off of it.

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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Guest RivieraBear

RivNut: Because it isn't there any more. Someone took it off. And someone changed the engine without updating records with the DMV so that can't be verified either. It's the hidden number or nothing. But I appreciate all your input!

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On my way out the door today, I checked my drivers side near the crossmember and there is something there. I didnt have alot of time to really clean it but its definitely something stamped there. Now I have a 65. You have a 63, you may want to check drivers side near the trans crossmember.

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R..Bear

I'm sorry that I didn't tell you where to look; the description was in the caption with the picture. Here's another picture from a wider angle that may put it into a perspective as to where it is on this '65 chassis. Right where the trans crossmember bolts on. But, the transmission mount in your '63 is a little farther forward because the Dynaflow is shorter than the ST400.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=149477575162&set=a.149475630162.123126.149461030162&type=3&theater#!/photo.php?fbid=149477565162&set=a.149475630162.123126.149461030162&type=3&permPage=1

Ed

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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Not sure about the Riviera, but on most GM cars this number is in two places. One as pictured about under the front drivers seat, and another forward of that. On the drivers side frame rail between the firewall and the upper control arm. Again, can't swear the Riviera is the same, but that is the case with most all other GM frames. You should not have to pull the body to see this one, if it is there. Maybe Chris or Rob J can look at their frames and confirm.

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Havn`t payed much attention to the frame numbers, especially here in the rust belt, but off the top of my head (dont have any pics or docs) it is my understanding the VIN number on the `63 Rivs is on the passenger side.

Rivierabear- I`m not sure I would want to see the confidential number if the original VIN tag was missing...cant the DMV assign a replacement VIN number?

Tom Mooney

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