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Looking for suggestions on knocking.


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Well,<BR>I have made some progress here and there with my Gran Sport. I have a "shudder" (miss) that I believe is bad wires. I will address that this weekend. Timing is decent now and will improve with new wires. The fuel leak is fixed as well as the oil leak. Also new Edelbrock carb. Still need to make a modification to the carb linkage so it works with the ST300 kick down and switch pitch. Any suggestions? Finally, and most disconcerting is the infamous knock. With some assistance, I checked each piston by pulling a plug wire and listening for the knock to go away. I was told this would detect bad bearings or improperly installed, slipped etc. Well the knock never went away and is seems to be coming from the bottom/front of the engine. Hence the suggestion to check the orientation of the washer on the crankshaft pulley bolt. I did so and according to my Dad (big nailhead guy) I have it correctly installed. Now Dad seems to think the dampner may be worn sufficiently to "knock" around. <P>So far my car club guys and I have been able to establish at 1400-1500RPM is when the knock becomes detectable. I think my next step is to loosen the belts and remove or "wiggle" the dampner and see if I can detect a problem there. The problem may be inherent in that I am using a 401 dampner form the original engine on a 425. However, everything from the dampner to the flex-plate has been ballanced by the machine shop I used. (Background info: I basically got a short block and did the assembly myself). Now that I think about it, maybe I should have used the crank from the 401 also...Hind sight...<P>Well that's my latest update, and I'm soliciting suggestions and or helpful info.<P>Thanks for everything so far,<P>Dave Wright<BR>'65 Skylark Gran Sport

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  • 5 weeks later...

my 455 has a knock also. did you have the rod bearingd replace? my knock hits from idle to about 2 grand. but i'm also about to rebuild the motor. add thicker oil when it gets warmer and see if that quiets it down some. if it does its the bearings.

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Also have recently installed an Edelbrock carb (1406) and had to deal with the ST300 stator/detent switch linkage.<P>I had to cut off part of the linkage arm from the old carb and bolt it to the new throttle arm. Also had to grind down part of the large attaching bolt's head to get clearance. Had to fabricate an extension piece for the switch's hook arm.<P>I went to the speed shop where I had bought the carb, and the owner, who is over 60, and has been modifying cars since the 1950's, looked at my stator/detent switch and said he had never seen one before.<P>Just shows that Edelbrock made the carb to fit Chevys, and you will have to fabricate some stuff to adapt it to your Buick.<P> <P><P>------------------<BR>

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might want to check the front part of the oil pan(about half way between the sump and balancer).....there is not much room here where the rods rotate and they can hit the pan....have seen this a few times

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I am using an Edelbrock on a 65 Riviera. Holley makes a linkage piece that can be used; sort of u shaped; had to bolt it to existing linkage but works great with no grinding or permanent mods. Tricky to set this up correctly, since throttle arc travel is longer than switch pitch control arc distance, have to attach trannie switch so it travels at a smaller arc distance. I am switching back to original carb soon. If I can find the part # from Holley I will post. The Edelbrock has been good, I just want to show my car in the unmodified class @ next ROA meet.<P>------------------<BR>Ted Nagel <BR>65 Wildcats <BR>65 Riviera <BR>65 Special Wagon 455 <BR>70 GS Stage1 4 Speed<BR>66 Fleetwood Brougham

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