Foxlovescars Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 I have an Eagle symmetric two-post lift in my garage (all four arms same length). The extension arms of the lift do not extend far enough to fit safely under the correct jacking points of the x-frame at the front of the car. Putting the car backwards on the lift creates the same problem.For those of you that have a two-post lift, how did you solve the problem?Frank O'Donnell1965 Riviera Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Contact Eagle, they probably have some thoughts.I wish you well,Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxlovescars Posted June 13, 2012 Author Share Posted June 13, 2012 Smithbrother:First call I made. Eagle doesn't make any kind of an adapter. The contact I spoke with had no idea what a 60's GM "x-body" frame was. I scoured the internet for a lift company that sells an adapter and could not find a single one. Mohawk Lifts sells platforms that attach to the arms that hold plates you drive your tires on to, but that's the best I could do so far.Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rsmalling Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 I have a Benwill 2 post 9000 lb lift and the arms are just long enough to catch the frame properly if I have the car perfectly centered over the lift.They do make longer arms for most lifts, that are optional to buy.hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 I have seen where someone fabricated 2 heavy beams that span between your arms and also have lift points that contact the frame properly.This is why I don't have a 2-post lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CheezeMan Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 I think these are the ones Jim was referring to. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxlovescars Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 Chuck:Were these fabricated or are they available from someone to purchase?Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rsmalling Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 I think these are the ones Jim was referring to.Those are great! I might have to implement that idea! Thanks for the pic Cheeze! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zimm63 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 I fabbed them to fit my Ben Pearson lift and 63 Riviera. Its a bit of a pain to get the crossmembers set up under the car, but I feel very comfortable working under it when its up. Zimm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
page2171 Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Are these the same points a person would use if they were putting jack stands under the car? I don't have a Riv, but my '62 Electra has the X-frame too. I need to work on the rear brakes, but with the shrouded rear wheels I have to get the car up a ways to get the back tires off. I figure if those points would work, I can jack my car up using a floor jack under the pumpkin, place the jack stands under the frame, and then let the jack down enough to get the tires off. Will that be steady enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxlovescars Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 Jim and Cheezeman:I am using your information and the pictures you provided to have a welder build me a single cross bar to fit between the front arms of my lift. I can match the frame lift points in the rear with the arms with no problems. I will then be able to use the 5" lift extensions that came with my lift in the rear to keep the entire X-frame level with the Buick on the lift and the front cross bar in place.Thanks for your input,FrankP.S. Jim: I like having a two post lift because it gives me more access to the wheel wells, and the engine cavity to do the undercarriage cleaning on these old cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CheezeMan Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Frank, please post some pics when done, especially if you make any improvements in the design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxlovescars Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 Here are photos of the finished product. A local welder used 4" square steel for safety and it cost me $160. Weighs about 55 lbs. See the next post for more pics.Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxlovescars Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 The first picture is the bar from the previous post in use on my two-post lift, under my Riviera. The next two pictures are of a bar commissioned by a local restoration shop for use on x-frames when you want to remove the engine and transmission together. That's where I got the idea and dimensions for the single bar. The multi-bar set-up is very heavy and quite difficult to position on the lift arms. The car must be jacked up very high at the front end.If anyone wants to have one of these single bars made, contact me via e-mail and I will send you the dimensions.Frank(Fox loves cars) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CheezeMan Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Nice!Thanks Frank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rsmalling Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 I like it as well. I like how the pins drop into the lift arms. It looks like you only need 1? or do you have front and rear cross beams? Very cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxlovescars Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 You only need the one bar for the front. With the lift arms fully extended in the rear, they fit perfectly under the frame where the rear suspension attaches to the frame. In the front, you use the 1 1/4" pin extensions under the cross bar (to clear the indentions in the lift arms) and the 5" extensions under the lift pads in the rear to level the car out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxlovescars Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 I have been contacted a number of times for the dimensions so I will post them here.The bar is 4 inch square steel, 1/8 inch thick Length: 51 1/2 inches longCenter hole to center hole is 45 inches End of bar to center of hole (both sides) 3 1/2 inchesI gave the welder two of the 5" extensions that came with my lift to put through the holes he drilled in the barThe extensions are welded on the top and the bottom in the barThe extensions project through the top of the bar 1 3/4 inchI still have to use a rolling jack to position each side of the front of the car under the bar before using the lift.If you have any other questions, just let me know. Frank O'Donnell 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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