PARTS is PARTS

[Guest Smitty168]

First, thank you guys for your help with the discussion about taking out the Grille on my '36 Four Door.

After thinking it over, I've decided to take out the radiator. That way I'll be sure to get things out without breaking anything (me or the car). I've ordered a Wiring Harness from Narragansett Repro and plan to start that next month. I'll be re doing the dashboard and replacing instruments at the same time. I'll rewire first so that I can start the car and check the wiring. Can't do that without the radiator.

I've found most of the instruments I'll need but I've been looking for a TEMP GAUGE without much luck. Also, the GLOVE BOX SPRINGS are gone so I'll need to find a set (so far no luck). The Dash Board THROTTLE KNOB AND CABLE ASSY is of no use (someone cut it short).

I'm hoping someone out there in the Forum may have one or more of these componenants that they may be willing to part with.

Please let me know if you want to sell.

Thanks in advance.

Smitty

[1936 D2]

- Do you have all the components of the temp gauge? If so, there are some instructions "out there" that explain a fix. Fairly easy actually. Just needs some patience. The most recent I saw were in the "Skinned Knuckles" publication within the last year. I can find the date(s) of the issue if necessary.

- The glove box door springs are pretty simple. You may be able to construct something before you would be able to find them. (Would be a lot cheaper to make them than purchase a door with them also!) Think along the lines of lumber bailing strap to use as spring steel.

- Is the throttle cable routed properly? If not it may come up short. If you are not running a Stromberg EXV-2 carb, then the linkages may not be set up correctly for the cable. Just some ideas for that issue.

Good luck!

Edited May 26, 2012 by 1936 D2 (see edit history)

[Guest Smitty168]

1936 D2,

Thanks for your reply. Sorry I haven't answered sooner. Been tied up with previous committments.

Re: Glove Box Springs, I think I can make a close approximation using spring steel Strapping Material.

Re: Temp Gauge; No I don't have all the parts. While I haven't taken out the Instrument Cluster YET, I can see that the existing Gauge was ruined when someone clipped the sensor wire inside the Firewall. The foot or so of missing Sensor wire and the Sensor Bulb are gone.

The previous owner told me a story of mice nests in the cooling system which caused (DUH !) some serious overheating problems. Seems they tried running the engine anyway. They apparently thought that the gauge was faulty. Replaced it with an after market mechanical unit. Thus the clipped wire?

I'd be very interested in seeing the "fix" you referred to if it's not too much trouble. If I can reuse parts from the aftermarket unit this might be doable.

I haven't seen any Temp Gauges for sale on the Internet. Any suggestions for a source? Maybe someone on this Forum has a known working one for sale???

Thanks to all you guys for your help.

Smitty

[1936 D2]

Point of info... The "wire" on the back of the temp gauge is actually a piece of copper or brass capillary tubing with a protective "spring" wrapped around it.

The gauge fix involves using a "new" bulb for the engine end, finding some small brass tubing at a place like a hobby shop that JUST fits over the ends of the capillary tube from the back of the original gauge and the capillary from the "new" bulb. Sounds like you have all the parts except the inch long piece of brass tubing.

The general gist of the repair is to prep both ends of the tubing (the repair should come at a point behind the dash yet still a distance from the gauge) for silver soldering. The fluid in the gauge is ether. The "new" bulb will be sunk in freezing water BEFORE cutting off the "new" gauge so as to retain the either inside the system, or a spray can of vehicle starting fluid can be used to supply the ether. Essentially, you spray fill the bulb with the ether while the bulb is sitting in ice water with some salt in it to bring the temp down low and keep the ether in a liquid state in the bulb. (Like making ice cream!) Then carefully fluxing, heating and soldering the ends of the tubing into the small length of brass tubing. Once the repair is made the bulb is allowed to warm back up to room temp.

Then it is time for the acid test.

Slowly heat the bulb up in a pan of boiling water and see if the repair holds. If your plumbing skills are good it should work like a charm. Then watch the original gauge for accuracy as the water comes to a rolling boil.

That's it!

[Guest 1930]

Point of info... The "wire" on the back of the temp gauge is actually a piece of copper or brass capillary tubing with a protective "spring" wrapped around it.

The gauge fix involves using a "new" bulb for the engine end, finding some small brass tubing at a place like a hobby shop that JUST fits over the ends of the capillary tube from the back of the original gauge and the capillary from the "new" bulb. Sounds like you have all the parts except the inch long piece of brass tubing.

The general gist of the repair is to prep both ends of the tubing (the repair should come at a point behind the dash yet still a distance from the gauge) for silver soldering. The fluid in the gauge is ether. The "new" bulb will be sunk in freezing water BEFORE cutting off the "new" gauge so as to retain the either inside the system, or a spray can of vehicle starting fluid can be used to supply the ether. Essentially, you spray fill the bulb with the ether while the bulb is sitting in ice water with some salt in it to bring the temp down low and keep the ether in a liquid state in the bulb. (Like making ice cream!) Then carefully fluxing, heating and soldering the ends of the tubing into the small length of brass tubing. Once the repair is made the bulb is allowed to warm back up to room temp.

Then it is time for the acid test.

Slowly heat the bulb up in a pan of boiling water and see if the repair holds. If your plumbing skills are good it should work like a charm. Then watch the original gauge for accuracy as the water comes to a rolling boil.

That's it!

You could offer me 1 million dollars and I could not do this

[Guest 1930]

2 million and weeel talk