Guest slacker1965 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Interesting thread...it is always interesting to re-engineer a car to one`s own preferences so my hat`s off to those who embark down that road. Having said that, it is always advisable to replace 48 year old coil springs (or improper application coil springs) FIRST before re-engineering a suspension system. This statement is a more specific reference to Bernie`s post above regarding restoring OEM performance. Coil springs do wear out even though they appear to be physically OK and replacing them will often remedy, or at least dramatically affect, many of the typical complaints like floating, etc. Tom MooneyI agree w/tom whole heartily..... my priority list:make sure ALL susp components (inc. bushings) are in good shape, the shocks are good, the springs aren't wore out, & the alignment is setup for your wheel/tire combo. once your vehicle passes all these tests, or you ride in one that has, THEN start changing shocks, springs & sway bars.this methodology works for any car....coming from a racing background, I initially was thinking ft discs, coilovers etc etc. once everything was brought back into spec, the car behaved nicely.good luck & keep us postedks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Okay, fellows. All good sound advice. So how does one, like myself, check/ensure that my springs are in good order without driving the car. My car has been sitting without the engine in it for the past 13 years so I haven't drove it. I recently had my engine rebuilt and thought about addressing the front suspension before I drop my engine in. I like the idea of getting the suspension all squared up with new components (rubbers, ball joints, shocks). I have the front suspension apart now to handle all that but have not ordered parts yet. Where have you guys purchased front end kits and shocks from? I'm thinking just pull the springs, paint them, put it all back together with new rubbers & shocks, then drive it and see how the original springs do for me. Only bummer is having to tear it apart again if the springs have to be replaced. I tore up the ball joint rubbers to get it apart, hate to do that over againAny suggestions…?David'65 Riviera, Deluxe, A/C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tenugent Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 with the money you already have in the motor-i would go ahead and replace what i could while working in that area-but thats just me.i think i gave around 400 for full frontend kit (CARS)-spring will be between 150-200 depending on custom or stock-ive heard that bilsteen shocks are good but jim cannon said his didnt fit so he sent them back so i went with KYB.hope this helps-im sure others will chime in on this subject with more help.good luck.t.nugent roa 12969... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 I am in on the replace them now idea as well.Although I am not a metallurgist I remember hearing that age and an uncompressed spring do not go well together; like sitting without an engine. The story was about a Chrysler product with torsion bars. It had been sitting on blocks for a long time and the relieved tension caused some sort of molecular crystallization in the metal. Shortly after the car was brought back into service the bar snapped. This is a second hand story and I have known some of the world's greatest mental masturbators (all engineers) so take it for what it is worth.When my car was 20 years old I was getting compliments of how cool it looked lowered. It is just time to replace that stuff.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 When I got it, my '64 has a nice stock ride height to it, but whenn I replaced the shocks, I noticed that the rear springs had the little twist in spring spacers on each side. As Bernie said, probably just collapsed from age.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Well, I will add my .02 worth. Not a Riv, but a Buick nevertheless. I did NOT replace springs on my '50. When I replaced the shocks, I measured the height per shop manual. It is spot on per shop manual. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zimm63 Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 To revive an old thread; has anyone ordered and installed a set of Tony's sway bars? How did they work out? What was the total cost including shipping? Would you do it again?Spring is coming.Zimm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbuick Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Hi Zimm, I did get feedback from a member in the US who bought the rear bar from me...Hey Tony, Thanks for the awesome rear sway bar for my 65 Riviera. Shipping was fast and you always kept me updated. The installation was a breeze. It took less than a couple hours and even used holes already present in the frame. In addition to the rear sway bar I also installed a larger front sway bar. New GS springs up front and KYB shocks all around. Poly bushings for my front lower control arms and front brake rods. Installing new rubber rear control arm bushings and poly track bar bushings tightened up the rear suspension. A fast ratio 12:1 steering box and 17" wheels with low profile tires really compliment the rest of the upgrades. Driving this car in the hills and curves of the Kentucky country side was so much fun. Now the car goes around corners flat and level. Handles more like a modern sedan than a 60's vintage car. I had no idea that with a few tweaks this car could handle this good. Thanks a bunch, Ken. I would suggest buying a front bar locally just over 1" thick and save the freight cost from me. The AU$ is very weak at the moment which will give you about a 25% discount. Freight will be about AU$160 but is automatically calculated when you order online before you commit.Rear Sway Bar Kit - $289 add to basket Bolt-in, no cutting or welding 22mm in dia. includes all mounting hardware required. (see detailed online instructions) [TABLE=class: ucc-result-table]<tbody>[TR=class: uccRes][TD=class: leftCol, align: right]422.00 AUD [/TD] [TD=width: 6%, align: center]=[/TD] [TD=class: rightCol, width: 47%, align: left]331.078 USD[/TD][/TR]</tbody>[/TABLE]Turnaround and delivery is 5-6 weeks at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Do I hear "group buy" discounts? ?David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbuick Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Hi David, Originally offered a discount back in 2012 but as each bar is hand made that's the best I can do. Remember the prices shown are in AU$ plus 10% comes off because our taxes are not payable in the US Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zimm63 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Bars ordered. Will report back.Zimm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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