Photocell removal question

[Trey]

Attached is a photo of what I see when I pull up the dash board. Ronnie's tutorial for removal of the photocell mentions a 7 MM socket needs to be used, but I do not see where the 7 MM bolts are located. I think the second arrow in the photo is pointing to the photo cell, is that correct? Also, what are those other things in the picture?

[Trey]

Update - I took a chance and twisted the "middle arrow sensor" and pulled it down to get it out. I then pulled the little blue tip to remove it and then I pushed in the new little blue sensor (purchased from gmpartsdirect.com and the model number from Ronnie's site). I then twisted the sensor holder back into position. BD44 now reacts when I cover the sensor (up to 94). Before I put the dash back together, I would like to know what those other two items are so I can check to see if they are still working so I can fix them. Anyone know what those other two items are?

[Trey]

Part number (for reference) - Taken from Ronnie's site:

The GM part number for the photocell is: 25673037.

GMPartsDirect.com has it listed for approximately $ 30.00, as of 9/12/10.

The photocell is located under the defroster grill. It is responsible for dimming the Instrument panel and CRT at night.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

The part on the left you ask about is the solar load temperature sensor.

The photocell is the part you think it is.

The tube on the right you ask about is the tube that brings interior air up to the in car temperature sensor.

The 7mm bolt your looking for is in that gap between the solar temp sensor and the photocell below the level you can see in your photo.

May not need to get at it if you can turn the bottom orange piece under the plate that holds the photocell clockwise to let that tab come out the bottom, then the round black part that houses the photocell will come out the top. If you don't have enough room to get to it, then remove the 7mm bolt and the entire plate that holds the temp sensor and the photocell will pull up a bit as far as the connecting wires will allow, and then you can get at it.

The photocell plugs straight into the black socket doesn't turn like a marker light. Don't forget the blue filter if your replacement doesn't come with one.

[Trey]

MC_Reatta, thanks for all of those replies! I don't think I will have to worry about those other sensors as the temperature read-outs have always seemed accurate. I was able to get my fingers under there and twist, so I did not need to remove the 7 MM bolts. What is the blue filter? I did notice that my replacement sensor did have a blue tinted plastic film on top of it. I though about removing it, but I left it on. Is that blue film I saw the "blue filter" you mentioned?

[Ronnie]

Trey, with your permission, I would like to use your photo to update the tutorial. I will also use the comments by Mc_Reatta to make the instructions clearer.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Yes, the blue film is the filter. It keeps the photocell from reacting to infrared light (heat) and gives a truer reading and some protection from the brutal sunlight up there.

Sorry I was late to the party, I am busy dropping a fuel tank to replace the pump.

Edited May 7, 2012 by Mc_Reatta (see edit history)

[Trey]

Sure Ronnie, you can use my picture. You may have to tweak the text - I used Microsoft Paint. I would have posted pictures earlier, but I just figured out how to upload and take pictures with my wife's smartphone. Thank MC_Reatta for the reply.

[Ronnie]

Yes, the blue film is the filter. It keeps the photocell from reacting to infrared light (heat) and gives a truer reading and some protection from the brutal sunlight up there.

Sorry I was late to the party, I am busy dropping a fuel tank to replace the pump.

Mc, I've had requests for a fuel pump replacement tutorial. If you have time to make some notes and take some photos to make one I would be happy to add it to ROJ.

[Ronnie]

Thanks Trey!

[waltmail]

Mc, I've had requests for a fuel pump replacement tutorial. If you have time to make some notes and take some photos to make one I would be happy to add it to ROJ.

I hope he does. I need to drop mine to fix the fuel gauge read out problem. I dropped mine once, but there has to be a better sequence than the one I used. Took 2 of us about 8 hours to replace the pump, only to have the fuel level sensor not work afterwards. Been this way for a few years now.

[Ronnie]

Sure Ronnie, you can use my picture. You may have to tweak the text - I used Microsoft Paint. I would have posted pictures earlier, but I just figured out how to upload and take pictures with my wife's smartphone. Thank MC_Reatta for the reply.

I've added the photo to the photocell replacement tutorial. The photo and the comments by Mc_Reatta made the tutorial a lot clearer as to what needs to be done. If I need to add or correct anything please let me know.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Now some bad weather is getting in the way of getting the tank down.

After reading what others have posted about this, I'm thinking there may have to be separate procedures for 80s vs 90s as most have said you just have to remove the end bolts in the sway bar link and it will swing down out of the way. In my 89, it will swing down somewhat but hits the lower arm before it's all the way out of the path of the tank coming straight down. There also are heat shields in the way at the inner end of the tank that block access to one of the strap mounting bolts and would block the front edge of the tank from coming straight down. I know there's a difference with the sway bar linkages between the two year groups, but not sure how it relates to this job.

I expect if you are willing to manhandle the tank it might have enough clearance to get the tank out without going further, but if you have the intention of using a jack to raise and lower the tank without wrestling with anything, more stuff has to be removed to get the clearance needed.

[Guest Corvanti]

Now some bad weather is getting in the way of getting the tank down.

After reading what others have posted about this, I'm thinking there may have to be separate procedures for 80s vs 90s as most have said you just have to remove the end bolts in the sway bar link and it will swing down out of the way. In my 89, it will swing down somewhat but hits the lower arm before it's all the way out of the path of the tank coming straight down. There also are heat shields in the way at the inner end of the tank that block access to one of the strap mounting bolts and would block the front edge of the tank from coming straight down. I know there's a difference with the sway bar linkages between the two year groups, but not sure how it relates to this job.

I expect if you are willing to manhandle the tank it might have enough clearance to get the tank out without going further, but if you have the intention of using a jack to raise and lower the tank without wrestling with anything, more stuff has to be removed to get the clearance needed.

maybe i can help a little since i just replaced my fuel pump on the '89 last week...

here's the thread i had going:

http://forums.aaca.org/f116/fuel-pump-next-list-327104.html

the sway bar link bolts, to me, look like the 2nd set from the front. they are 15mm bolts... the tank will not drop right down, but slide out to the front.

the heat shield on the front passenger side also has to come off (at least it did for me). i think they were 7mm bolts. after the bolts were off, i had to bend the shield some to get it off.

i used a floor jack to gradually lower it down, and slide forward. btw: i used 2 floor jacks to re-install...

it may be better for you to start a new thread on this, to get more experienced owners to help.

hopes this helps!

[harry yarnell]

I have found a hydraulic table from Harbor freight, just the ticket to R&R a gas tank.

A lift doesn't hurt,either.