Questions for the knowledged

[Guest]

Aiight then fooz, this be the l33t stufz to axz.<BR>Hrmm...anyway:<BR>I have some questions about rebuilding that I want addressed, and I want a new topic (IE-less than 100 posts) to start in.<P>1) Will an cam upgrade change engine power? IE-add more torque/ or will it just move the power up in the band and give it less low end torque?<P>2) Stall converters. Does a 2000rpm stall converter mean that below 2000rpm the turbines in the converter won't move the tranny or the driveshaft meaning more fuel consumption + more stress on the engine?<P>3) Nitrous - In small bursts of oh say 100hp shots is it trully that dangerous on a motor?<P>4) will all/any of these affect fuel economy or engine reliability?<P>Sorry to put this on you, but consider this research, I'm asking the best group of people the important questions.<P>Later all

[Guest]

1. Yes: will change power. Good or bad depends on cam selection, engine combination.<BR>2. No 2000 Stall is "shock stall". From a standing start, nail gas, converter will "flash" to approx. 2000 RPM. Under normal driving conditions it will act like a stock converter only a little "loose" at low RPM. Will consume a little more gas. Generally Stall Converters 3000 and below are very streetable, above 3000 they tend to be very "loose".<BR>3. NO. As long as the motor is in good shape to start with.<BR>4. Yes. Generally as you squeeze more HP out of a motor reliability and longevity tend to go down. But a properly built engine with the right part combination per expected HP level should last a long time. But lets face the facts, if the HP is there were gonna use it.<P>From the questions you have asked I would assume you want more HP but dont have the engine building background to do it yourself.<BR>Looking back over the years at the things I have done (which include all the things you asked about) I will make a suggestion.<P>Do the Nitrous. (up to 150 HP)<BR>Most HP per dollar spent (by far).<BR>No extensive engine building knowledge needed.<BR>Do not spare any expense in the fuel delivery system. When it comes to Nitrous you must maintain fuel pressure.<P>Go with the Stall converter.<BR>Easy change, and add a Trans. Cooler.<P>Posi rear end with gear ratio around 3.55- 3.73.<P>And last, a Good Sticky set of street tires, all that power don't mean squat if you can't put it to the ground.<P>All these things you (and your buddies) can do wihtout ever pulling a Valve Cover and be able to FEEL the increase "in the steat of your pants".<P>Keeping in perspective:<BR>These things will make you car "Quick" but not "Bad".<BR>I have a 64 Skylark 300ci, 4bbl, 150HP Nitrous, 3000 Converter (with TH350), 3.23 rear end. And my 64 Tri Power GTO is still faster.<BR>All depends on what you start with.<P>Goog luck and I hope this was helpfull.<BR>Dale.

[Guest]

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but doesn't changine the stall converter mean ripping out the tranny? Seems like it would be just as easy to pop the top and switch cams. And Dale, I have the 67 300, is there a manual on the engine that you know of?

[Guest]

Yes a converter swap would mean pulling the trans, but its not a complicated proccedure.<BR>Basically:<BR>Remove: Converter to Flywheel bolts, driveshaft, speedo cabel, shifter linkage, filler tube, crossmember, then loose bellhousing bolts, lower trans, replace converter and put it all back.(sounds easy don't it!) <BR>Truthfully it would be helpfull to have someone who has done it before helping you.<BR>This would be for a TH350 3speed type trans not the ST300 2sp.<BR>True the Converter won't give you more hoursepower, but it will let you use the HP you have from a dead stop and down low where there used to be a big MOAN from the carb.<P>Cost wise: Converter, Fluid, Trans. cooler kit.<BR>Installation time: one afternoon<P>Cam swap: Canshaft, lifters, gaskets, Cam lube, Adjustable Pushrods, Timing Chain and Gears (since the motor is down), Oil and filter change.<BR>Note: camshaft should be degreede in!<BR>In. Time: 1-2 weekends, depending on skill level.<P>To top it off the car with just the converter change will be faster thru the 1/8 mile, and MABEY even the 1/4.<BR>Reason:<BR>The car with the new cam is going to make 20-30 HP more BUT not untill about 3000RPM.<BR>By then the stock car with the Converter is going to be about three car-lenghts ahead of you, thats alot to make up!.<P>Just an Opinion.<P>As far as a Manual, I'm sure their available, I don't have one, but you might post a request on the Buy-sell forum.<P>Dale.<P><BR>

[Guest John Chapman]

Manuals are avilable on CD ROM from Cars and Parts Magazine, also. About $50 for the entire suite (two or three manuals)<BR> <A HREF="http://www.carsandparts.com/Books-manualsonCD.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.carsandparts.com/Books-manualsonCD.html</A> <P>JMC<P>------------------<BR>John Chapman<BR>BCA 35894<BR> jmchapman@aol.com

[Guest]

Well, I can drop the tranny, had to replace it already (picture if you will, a dirt road, that ends with a 90 degree turn right onto black top. A sickening screech...no more forward go). So what you're saying is that for best bang for the buck, stick with the converter and tranny cooler, but go with both for best? Alright, I have a source that can help with the work, thanks for all the input.

[YellowLark]

67 Skylark - the engine manual for your car is the 1967 Buick Chassis Service Manual.<P>You can often find these on eBay. Expect $40 for a beat-up but readable one. They are also usually available from literature vendors at big car shows.<P>------------------<BR>