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1936 dodge 4 door sedan restoration start


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Hey gents,

I'm new to the forum and just acquired a '36 dodge 4 door sedan from someone who owned it for 40 years.

Unfortunately it has been sitting for 10 or so years. It starts up by dosing the carbs manually. (Thats how he showed me it ran) We took it for a short drive and ran through the 3 forward gears and reverse. A little jerky but it moved good enough to buy.

That said it has no brakes.

So here are my questions:

1) After 10 years of bad gas sitting in the system where to start?

2) Brakes... since they are non functioning is it better to upgrade to some kind of kit (disc upgrade) or is the old system worth fixing.

3) Car manuals, parts books, etc... which ones are best/useful? Easy to find them as a pdf or better to look around for used paper versions.

Any help/direction would be appreciated.

Paul

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Hi Paul, Congrats on your new aquisition and welcome to the forum. you'll find several very knowledgable folks on this site that can help with all aspects of your car. First I would check the gas tank for corruption. It's best to drop the tank and have it cleaned and maybe sealed if need be and then have the carb gone over. Make sure all the fuel lines are intact and open. As far as the brakes go there is no need to retrofit. Original brakes are more than sufficient for the car and relatively simple. Rebuild kits are available for the front and rear wheel cylinders and master cylinder. Probably the wheel cylinder pistons are frozen in place or the rubbers are bad. They will have to be dissassembled,cleaned and honed. The front cylinders are avail. new but the rears have to be resleeved if they are pitted. New brake linings are available if needed and brake lines can be made from standard brake tubing available at any auto store. If you check on Ebay or at some of the literature dealers you can find a '34-'36 maintenance manual that will be very informative as well as a Motor's manual for '36-'40 that covers alot of mechanical issues in depth. Also a Dodge parts catalog,if you can find one is very helpfull in identfying parts. If you would like to talk more indepth please feel free to call me at 814-341-2461(cell). I'm sure you'll get more response on this topic. Jim

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Hi Paul,

Welcome to the AACA Forum! You will find this a very helpful place!

What a great looking car! Seems like it is mostly original and you will find many on this forum will encourage you to keep it that way! There are just over 30 people who have posted on this forum over time that own '36 Dodges of some model or have owned them in the past. They all have experiences to offer.

You are starting out with just about the same "product" that I had back about 28 years ago. None of the things you mentioned are insurmountable problems. Jim (jpage) addressed them very well. I hope you have purchased the car with the idea of learning about it and proceeding to work on it yourself. You will become THE mechanic for your car and be the most knowledgeable about your particular vehicle.

The 4Dr Touring Sedan that you have was the most popular of the models for the D2 Dodge in '36 with 174,334 of them made out of the total production of 265,005. You will be able to get a lot of information from "The Chrysler Historical Collection" about your particular car using the "Serial Number" from the metal tag on the right front door hinge "A" pillar. Be sure to find out all you can from the prior owner while he is still available. Be sure to ask about any print material they may have for the car (old registrations, bill of sale, etc). Those things are all interesting to the history of the car. You will be able to find out the production date, shipping date and first dealer shipped to from the "CHC". Also, be sure to find out if you received all the original tools that may have come with the car from the prior owner(s).

Sounds like there may be a bit of a clutch issue there too if the test drive was "jerky". Probably not a real big deal, just possibly some oil leaked onto the clutch plate. Not unheard of.

I see you found out how to add photos to your posts. Great! We LOVE photos! (And they also speak a thousand words). Take some higher resolution shots (don't go much over 4MB though - the Forum has trouble with photos too "big") of your car including outside angles, engine compartment, interior, underneath if possible, etc. We will be able to mention stuff we see in the shots and comment. NONE of the comments here are meant to be derogatory. They will all be of a helpful nature so please take them in that light. We are not here to pick your car apart, we just want to help - possibly save you a bunch of time as you try to fix 'er up as original as possible!

About your questions - gas is bad now a days, especially if there was ever a fill with ethanol gas. Jim gave you some good thoughts on that. Brakes, when properly repaired to specs, will throw you into the dash if you try! Literature is available from a few sources. On line, try - Faxon | Shop Manuals for Car & Truck Owners | DIY Service, Repair or Maintenance . They usually have reprints of what you need at a fairly reasonable price, and sometimes have the originals if you re into that. Getting literature is a wise way to start!

You are on your way to having some real fun and feeling of accomplishment with your "New Beauty Winner for 1936" Dodge! :)

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Paul,

Welcome to the forum. Don't know if you joined the Dodge Brothers Club yet, but you should. Our DBC News always has topics of interest to all years. Also I don't know how far away you are from Southbury CT but we are having our annual week long meet there in June 25-29 2012 On the 29th the cars will be parked at our host hotel (The Crowne Plaza in Southbury) for the whole day for the public to view.

Come on down and seek me out,

Joe C. President DBC

Edited by Joe Cozza
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Paul, 1936d2 is right..get to know your car. Purchase some sales lit. ,it will give you some insite on your car. Reading the manuals(I prefer hard copies) also will help you in getting to know more intimate details of construction and maintenance. If you are handy,it's a lot more fun to do it yourself,and by getting to know your car you can usually headoff other problems. There is a wealth of information available here(1936D2 being one of the best) and I encourage you read through the older posts of 1936 Dodges on this forum. There have been several issues discussed that I think you'll find interesting. I myself have had experience in the rubber parts and window channel business and am familiar with these cars. Many others have more familiar with the build histories and part numbers and mechanical issues. Don't be afraid to ask for help,that's what this forum is for. Even for parts as many of us still have stuff leftover! Have fun and good luck!

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Hi Paul,

Welcome to being a new owner of a vintage piece of auto history. I am also fairly new to this as I just purchased my '36 in January. Since then I have tried to read almost every post on our year or close to it that I can find on the forum. It has really helped me to get to know the car as well as some excellent help from some members. Your photo looks great and appears to show what looks like a really good original stock car. Your are very lucky as so many have been rodded out. I hope you can appreciate how unique it is to have one that is stock. Good Luck with your project and we look forward to seeing your progress.

Sodomojo

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Awesome! Thanks to you all for the great responses. I'm very happy to be here and very happy to start this adventure. My goal is to bring this car back to life. (as original as possible). The tow truck arrives tomorrow so if time permits I'll get some shots before the sun goes down. My first step will be to get some literature and start diagnosing fuel and brake issues. Would be fun to make it to CT in june. We'll see. Right now my other project (my 3 month old son Benjamin) beckons.

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I can say this after years of staring at cars on e bay and I do belive I saw that car on e bay , that doing anything to that car outher than original is a waste of money , The D-2 has to be a car that was 20 years ahead of its time . I also have a d-2 and love it im also working a Woodie project with another D-2. But I would highly recommend wasting no time rebuilding wheel cylinders or master cylinder and buy the rebuilt , Kanter is a good source their is a company out of Washington that will rebuild your rear wheel if you send them a core . You will burn yourself out if you try and rebuild every thing yourself and any modification just opens a can of worms but nice car good luck and the form is a wealth of information that you cant get in a book

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Hi Paul and welcome.....hopefully another Dodge saved !!

Although I'm restoring a 34 Dodge I have found that the Master Maintenance Manual ( you can buy it on ebay ) is worth its weight in gold and grab one and you'll see what I mean.

Also the parts catalogue is worth it too as covers a few more things. ( I just bought mine through Amazon )

One source I have found are other members photos. As they say a picture tells the story and I have used photos to see where things go and where and how things align up.

A while ago there was a 1936 Dodge restored to original in a full body off restoration sold on ebay. If you shoot me an email I'm happy to send you all 50 odd pictures of the car and this will give you an overload of visual information. I kept them as often I need to look at a section and I refer to these pictures.

Look forward to the photos

Ian

Contact me at iangreenlaw@netspace.net.au and I will send them to you.

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Hi there. Roberts Motors will sell a reprint of the original Master Mechanic Manual for the Car. You will also need a Blue colored Motors Manual. It is the only book that tell you to jack up the car, take off the right front tire, remove the inner fender to adjust the valves. All the break parts are readly avalible. The Parts Celler back east in mass I think. He had my wheel cylinder new in box. Seal the tank with a premium ok for unleaded/ethenal gas. One of my cars had the old style yellow sloshing compound in it. Modern gas caused it to break up and cause lots of pluged fule lines and filter. I used pour 15 products around 10 years ago sealed every thing in no more problem. You will need to make a heat shroud to cover the fuel pump and fuel line to the Carb. Get some Raidail tires 650 for the front and 700 for the back. I got those over priced high dollor Corker tires. The 700 are 1 1/2 inches taller gives faster road speed. Now you can go 60 MPH all day long and get 21 mpg with to days fuel. These car were designed to be worked on in a pit. So you will need 4 same size jack stands and a good old style floor jack. It is 3 foot from the rear end to the bumper modern floor jacks will beat the bumper to death with the handle. E Mail me any time you want I am not as smart as alot of the people but I do drive a 1936 dodge almost daliy. They are exelent automobiles.

Frank

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As far as gas tanks I purchased a gas tank from "tanks Inc. "and I do belive it was the best deal I have received on the car it only cost 255.00 no tax free shipping 'its slow shipping "but well wort the wait . Its an alloy coated steel oval tank for a 1933-1934 its about 3/4 taller than the oval tank in your car now but every else is the same , comes with new straps if you need them I used my old straps . I realy think you will spend close to that trying to repair the old tank 1933-34 Dodge & Plymouth Fuel Tank

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Except "frankngin's" tires and "amigo's" gas tank aren't original, They at least get the job done. I am a bit different I guess. I am all about originality - so people in the future looking at your car really know what the technology was in the past.

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Here is the info again for contacting the "CHC"...

Chrysler LLC

Corporate Historical Collection

12501 Chrysler Fwy.

CIMS 410-11-21

Detroit, MI 48288 USA

Attn: Historical Information

Email: archives@wpchryslermuseum.org

Fax: (313) 252-2928

Walter P. Chrysler Museum Archives

The person I was initially working with to get the copies of my records was:

Danielle Szostak-Viers /LCP/DCC/DCX

You will find from their web link that they also have Owner's Manuals and Service Manuals available through the Library Services.

Edited by 1936 D2
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Ok it's been raining her in MA like the dickens but tow truck came and slide my 36 right in the garage. It's tight in there but I did manage to get some photos. Can anyone tell me if there is a vin stamp on the body? Would it match the engine? I plan to contact CHC pretty soon to get the exact info. Reading the old registrations it was blue at some point before it got a repaint in the 70's. Some of the door knobs dont work and a few window cranks or missing. Nothing found under the seat except the battery. Let the fun begin!

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What are your long range plans,are you just going to drive it like it is or are you planning a full restoration. Looks like you're missing the air cleaner and it has some mismatched parts around the engine,the extra filter bowl and the electrical box on the upper right firewall. Looks like it needs some TLC. Looks pretty complete ,that's a good thing. The data plates on the firewall are available new (used to be from Pulfer and Williams,though they've been bought out). The upper plate is a Chrysler Corp. trademark plate,the lower one is your body number. The serial number is on a plate riveted to the front right lower "A" piller (front door).Looks like your missing the leftash tray. I have a few left along with several window cranks,although I not sure how good the handles are. I managed to have new ones made for mine. The dash decals are available for the glove box doors and ashtrays and I have new decals for the gauges and speedo. The interior on these '36's is really pretty when done correctly and is probably (in my opinion) the last nice dash setup for several years! Let us know if we can be of any help. I can also help you with the window channels as they can be a problem when worn out! Don't be afraid to call! One thing ...if you take off the firewall insulator pad under the dash make sure you carefully remove the retainers and keep them as they are not available new and are very hard to find as well as any body side moulding clips!

Edited by jpage (see edit history)
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Hi again Paul. Yup, "jpage" was ahead of me again (I must be getting old!) - with a pile of good info! The body number plate you show on the firewall really doesn't do much for you, but it WILL match the info on your Build Record if you successfully get a copy. The "CHC" will ONLY use the "Serial Number" that is on a black and silver plate attached to the RF door hinge pillar as "jpage" said. That "Serial Number" is nowhere else on the car. The "Engine Number", found on a flat boss on the left side of the engine block near the front between #'s 1 and 2 cylinders - just below the head. Only use the letters and numbers found on the flat rectangle and disregard any letters found on the "dots". It should start with a "D2 -" (Imagine that!). Many States use the "Engine Number" for registration and titling purposes. Be sure to check what your State will need for titling in your name. And be sure to get that done, right away! Don't put it off. I have seen too many horror stories of things happening to cars or their parts, causing much trouble with late titling and registration.

The "Serial Number" is what the "CHC" will need for the build record. That is how they are filed. The car's original "Engine Number" is on a hidden location on the frame, but not the "Serial Number" so I hope the "S/N" plate is there! That is another reason I mentioned getting ALL the paperwork you can from the prior owner(s).

BTW: None of the numbers match. Body, Serial and Engine numbers are all different from the factory.

I see your car is the "Deluxe Model 'B'". It has dual tail lights and dual wipers, and along with that has dual sun visors and dual horns. That second bit is what makes it the "Package 'B'" version! Top of the line!

If the driver window crank is missing, it is the only one that has a flat handle, the others should all be acorn handles. If the outer door handles don't work it is probably because the "Lock Spring" inside the door mechanism is broken. Not a big deal to find (yet) but can be a bit of a pain to put in. I know "sodomojo" just replaced one on his '36.

From what I can see in your photos (thanks by the way!), your car is pretty typical for a car that age and mileage. None to worry! Everything will be quite do-able on your car. It's not a bad start!

I noticed pretty much the same things as "jpage" but also add that the front bumper guards are missing (maybe the back ones too?), the headlamps look like they may have been changed to sealed beam units, the rear u-joint may have been replaced at some time because the dust cover is rubber and should be leather and something just doesn't look right about the carburetor but I can't put my finger on it right now. It looks like a Stromberg which is correct but may be the wrong model. Possibly newer. My car is running a Carter which seems to be a typical replacement carb found on many '36 Dodges so I can't compare right now. Again, all-in-all very do-able stuff. Congrats!

Quick note on photos - if you have the ability, please post photos taken at about 3MP or 4MP (megapixels) or so. That will raise the resolution up quite a bit and allow us, the viewers, to zoom in and see more detail that will be important in the future as you make more posts. (If they get too big though the Forum software has trouble with it and will fail to upload them). So the 3MP or just a bit more will do you well.

Keep the questions coming!

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The door lock assy's. are pretty easy to take apart as the cover has bent over tabs. They can be a bit trying to get out of the door though! That's where the manuals come in handy. The cover tabs need to be straightened carefully to avoid breakage. You would be surprised at how much dirt and old grease can accumulate inside the locks. There are also rubber bumpers inside that might be broken or compressed. These also help keep the lock in position so that the handes do not droop.It's a good idea to replace these ,they measure about 1/2in. x 3/4 in.and are fairly firm and need to be cut from a piece of rubber stock. With the covers off you can replace the lock springs too if broken. Clean and relube the assy's. and reinstall the covers. I had one cover that the tabs broke when I was reinstalling them. I just put a small tack weld on the area to hold them shut. Now they all work like new! It is intersesting that the driver's side window crank has the flat disc as opposed to the acorn shape. Clearence is tight there so it must have been so the driver won't hit his or her leg. Your car should have a Stromberg EXV-2 carb. Check to see if it is Stromberg(it will be marked on the top of the fuel bowl) and it will have the raised letters EXV-2 on the lower body. It appears that someone stuck on an extra fuel filter at the fuel line fitting which makes me wonder if you have the correct fuel pump as the original pump has the filter bowl attached to it. I did notice that the grille looks very good ,because many of these grilles are damaged because they are fairly fragile and they are pricey! Looks like you're on your way to having a really nice ride! I wish mine would have been in that kinda shape!

Edited by jpage (see edit history)
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Deluxe model B! That has a nice ring to it. My wife is gonna love it.

Hmm.. I don't remember seeing a tag on the pillar. Will double check after work but I'm might have been removed during the repaint in the 70's and never returned. The missing ashtray is actually the controls to the radio. Which is in the back seat along with the 20 lb radio box. Air cleaner off the carb is also in the back seat. The electrical box mounted on the firewall is a 12 volt transformer the previous owner installed to listen to a tape deck. (also in the back seat). The back seat also has 3 of the 4 missing bumper guards.

My initial inclination is to drive it for the summer.

So the short list is:

1) Brakes working

2) Fuel system working

3) Doors open and close

The side projects would be to investigate the historical facts of the car. Identify whats missing. (window hand cranks, original head lights, body trim, etc)

If the original color of the car is blue that would be a treat. That;s my preferance to restore to.

Once the rain stops here I'll try to fire up the engine and pull out of the garage. Then take some more detailed photos. (high res.)

In MA it's not possible to use year of manufacture plates unless they are "original" and in good shape. Thats a shame... I have them and was hoping to refurbish them to use. There was no title when the previous owner bought it 42 yrs ago but I have a bill of sales that is notarized and a few previous registrations and his old plates. Title and reg. is top of the list for next weeks work. I'll order some manuals this weekend. (unless anyone has them in pdf to share? my email paulcisek11@yahoo.com) I like the paper to flip through in the garage but sometimes its faster with a pdf in the house.

Thanks for the helpfull info guys. I'll keep you all posted.

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I have a radio ,a Motorola 60, for my car but don't know whether or not to hook it up. Seems around here all you get on AM is static or political talk shows. It is a nice feature though! Glad you have all those parts saves hunting them down. If you have the original type air cleaner I can tell you how to open it up and change the filter material when you decide to restore. Hope you can get it all "legal" without to much trouble!

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I used a patch of color that was on the grille shell under the headlamp mounting base (a spot that never had sun, wash chemicals, or waxes applied). They were able to do a computer match to that color. The computer came up with like 12 close samples, then the paint man eyed them up for the perfect match. He then measured the size of the metallic flake with a microscope and came up with the paint mix used for my car. It is an exact match for the color that was under that headlamp.

Keep an eye on this thread for '36 paint info: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/1936-dodge-paint-chips-327404.html#post1029202

Sounds like you really have a good plan. It will get you to the FUN part - the first ride!

Keep on your plan, have fun as you go. The learning will never stop! As you need info during the progress just ask!

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"I see your car is the "Deluxe Model 'B'". It has dual tail lights and dual wipers, and along with that has dual sun visors and dual horns. That second bit is what makes it the "Package 'B'" version! Top of the line!..."

Ooops! I MUST make a correction! I looked up the actual info (my memory sometimes eludes me) in the Parts Manual. Group 1 - Section 1-G - DeLuxe Accessory Group Package "A" - #656057 - 4Dr Touring Sedan & 7 Passenger Sedan - Consists of: auxiliary windshield wiper, auxiliary tail lamp, dual horns, cigar lighter, and auxiliary sun visor.

So... Your car is the: DeLuxe Accessory Group - Package "A" vehicle. ("Package "B" only has the extra wiper and tail lamp).

Sorry for any confusion! :confused: (My car is a "B").

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Ooops! I MUST make a correction! I looked up the actual info (my memory sometimes eludes me) in the Parts Manual. Group 1 - Section 1-G - DeLuxe Accessory Group Package "A" - #656057 - 4Dr Touring Sedan & 7 Passenger Sedan - Consists of: auxiliary windshield wiper, auxiliary tail lamp, dual horns, cigar lighter, and auxiliary sun visor.

So... Your car is the: DeLuxe Accessory Group - Package "A" vehicle. ("Package "B" only has the extra wiper and tail lamp).

Sorry for any confusion! :confused: (My car is a "B").

D-2, would you mind posting a picture of this info, I know/thought we had same books but you are more familiar with how to read yours than I so it would help me to better understand

Thanks for the correction by the way

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OK. That's different. My info is from the "Preliminary Part List" issued Nov 15, 1935. That's why the sections are different. Also, my pages are not pink. There should be more for your "Section -1-H" part on the next page?

I have 1&1/2 more pages of "Accessory" items in my book.

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I just made a quick look and I may have been mistaken, I do however have another original copy of this same 1936 Parts book in nearly mint condition if you are interested in trading your prelim 35.

The more I think about it the more I think I may have the prelim. but if you are interested you have my e-mail. Thanks

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No more to the "1-H". Hmmm... I wonder why they would specify the pieces in "1-H" as having an "A", but then not list out a "B"? I think there is an error there.

Naw. Thanks for the intriguing offer but I like my (rare) "Preliminary Parts List". The info pertaining to what parts changed from '35 to '36 has been invaluable a few times! (Like this one.)

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Prelims are a guesstimate of how changes might go and what parts might be used on said vehicles so the error is most likely within your book :P

Now Ive gotta find my prelim :D

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anyone have clear pictures showing windshield regulator for this year dodge? and also the number on the housing ? crank handle as well?

thank you for your help

Jen

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So I had a few minutes in the garage. Can anyone tell what kind of carburetor I have? (based on comments it doesn't seem original).

Also I have better shots of the head lights, yr of mfg plates, and passenger side door. "Turns out" the flat one is on the passenger side and the acorn one is on the driver side. The only one missing is rear passenger. Also can anyone say if this is the original generator from the plaque? Motor number found but no door jam plaque for body serial. I did get a shot of the original blue peeking from under the black. The last photo is another mystery.. is that the original master cylinder?

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Edited by dodge36MA (see edit history)
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Correction... I did find the serial # plate. It was hidden under grime and tape. (The passenger side door only opens a few inches... it's tight in my garage) So what can you guys tell me from that?

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I see you have posted your engine number. This comment was made earlier from D-2 and I was curious just what was meant and I guess I am still unsure looking at your engine number here now that you have posted it............... The "Engine Number", found on a flat boss on the left side of the engine block near the front between #'s 1 and 2 cylinders - just below the head. Only use the letters and numbers found on the flat rectangle and disregard any letters found on the "dots". It should start with a "D2 ..........

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The carb kinda looks like a Stromberg but it's not an EXV-2. There should be some indentfiable marks on it ,at least it's brand and serial numbers. Look on the flat cover of the fuel bowl. In looking at the previous photos I've also noticed that you're missing the electric choke assy. as well as the manifold heat control assy.and manifold drain. Please don't take this wrong ,but by your photos it looks like your headed to a complete restoration,good thing is ,the car looks solid and fairly complete. Just look at that grille(covet..covet)! The headlamps do look to have a sealed beam retrofit but it looks better than most. On original lamps the lenses slide tightly into the lamp bodies and are tight against the thin chrome trim ring so with the retro fit you're probably missing the reflectors ,retainer hardware and original lamp socket assys. These parts are generaly obtainable ,the retainer clips and springs are still available new(if the supplies lasted) from Restoration Specialties in PA . The generator looks original to me as does the master cylinder. Wagner makes a new master cylinder that looks very much like the original! Original EXV-2 carbs are also readily available at reasonable prices and repair kits are cheap. I think I have a couple lying around here! Don't get discouraged..there is enough knowledge and experience on this forum to get you through any problem and help with almost any parts. I wish we had this years ago when I started my car! Oh and guys ,please don't think I'm always promoting Resto. Specialties; I used to work there and know of many incidental parts they have for '36 Dodges and what will work or not that are not in the catalog and sometimes they don't know they have them either!

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One more thing that I found imposable to avoid , You will be looking for a part on e-bay for weeks or months one will come up but you know its over priced but u give in and buy it to speed up the project then 5 of the same items show up the next day all for 1/2 the price and better shape than the one you just paid for

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Amigo, I certainly know the ebay game. I have an old moto that I'm still trying to find parts for. I do however had 3 gas tanks. Each time cheaper and better looking then the previous.

I guess my first order buisness is to get the manuals and see what the car should have vs. what it has.

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anyone have clear pictures showing windshield regulator for this year dodge? and also the number on the housing ? crank handle as well?...thank you for your help...Jen

Here are some shots. Sorry I don't have a closeup of the casting numbers. The "Windshield Regulator Assembly" for '36 Dodge is part number # 715510 and is specific to the '36 Dodge. The "Windshield Regulator Handle Assembly" is #719171 and was NOT new for '36 Dodge. (Your request is kind of buried here in this different thread. If you start a fresh thread next time you may get more answers quicker.) ;)

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I see you have posted your engine number. This comment was made earlier from D-2 and I was curious just what was meant and I guess I am still unsure looking at your engine number here now that you have posted it..

His shot was in so tight (thanks dodge36MA!) that you can't see the "dots" bosses ahead and after the Engine Number boss. The figures on the "dots" are only for "Assembly Line Inspectors" and are not used as any part of the actual engine number. (Per: Mopar "Model Chart and Serial Number Guide" - Publication D-12784 >supersedes D-12193<) I also heard in the past that the stuff on the "dots" are manufacture codes for cylinder bore and valve data.

Also note: The "I" in the number part is actually a coded "1". It is ALWAYS read as a "1" when quoting the number!

Looks like I am at the bottom of page #1. Look for more pages just below this post and to the right! >>>|

Edited by 1936 D2 (see edit history)
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