Horn button replacement

[Bushwack]

I need to replace two horn buttons. My confusion is do I need to remove the triangular piece (that contains the contacts) shown below to replace the buttons? With a beige button I am looking at, my answer would be yes but would like confirmation (and assuming this triangular piece gets removed, is a needle nose pliers the best way to remove it?).

I'm moving cautiously as I don't want to make things worse then they are (and I don't want to break anything that has yet to be broken).

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[Guest Northwestsun]

Bushwack,

I believe the correct answer is yes. Horn buttons are replaced as whole units (push part and its housing) after the airbag is removed from the steering wheel (held in place with four torx screws behind the wheel). The button wires are then disconnected and each button removed from the mounting screws. (Prior to all this the battery should be disconnected and at least a 10-minute wait.)

Hope this helps...

Dave

P.S. I got my replacement buttons at a Pick and Pull from a Roadmaster. Painted them the right color.

[Guest steveskyhawk]

Ervin,

Disconnect the battery first and then with a #30 torx remove the airbag. Be very careful to not yank on the horn button wire. It comes out with a half turn to the left. Once the airbag is out the horn buttons are removed with two #15 torx. Then reverse the process.

[Guest Richard D]

I replaced mine about four years ago, as I remember you have to remove the air bag module to get access to the switches. Those remaining parts in your picture will come with the replacement switches. Check with Jim Finn or NC_Reatta or Steveskyhawk for replacements. Perhaps someone else will chime in on how to safe the airbag, I don't recall, but that info is in the FSM. FYI the torx screws that hold it to the wheel are on the back of the wheel.

[NCReatta]

Ervin,

Disconnect the battery first and then with a #30 torx remove the airbag. Be very careful to not yank on the horn button wire. It comes out with a half turn to the left. Once the airbag is out the horn buttons are removed with two #15 torx. Then reverse the process.

Horn buttons are held in with #20 torx.

[KDirk]

I'd add that after disconnecting the battery, unless you want to wait 20-30 minutes, disconnect the yellow two-position connector at the base of the column. This will completely disable the air bag. Reason being that the DERM (air bag control module under drivers seat) maintains a backup power charge capable of blowing the bag for about a half hour (or so the FSM says). This design maintains the functionality of the SIR system in a frontal collision if the battery is destroyed. After disconnecting the yellow connector (the wiring harness is bright yellow as well) remove the bag, install new horn buttons and reinstall.

Also cannot stress enough to be careful with the horn lead as Steve has pointed out. It rotates into a plastic cylinder with a retention notch. If you pull it out without turning, or turn the wrong way, it will break the plastic cylinder and then you have to disassemble the entire column to replace the turn signal cancel cam/horn contact ring.

I had to do this recently (not due to being careless with airbag removal, the plastic piece just broke from age related stress) and it is not an enjoyable project, to be sure.

KDirk

[Guest Richard D]

I'd add that after disconnecting the battery, unless you want to wait 20-30 minutes, disconnect the yellow two-position connector at the base of the column. This will completely disable the air bag. Reason being that the DERM (air bag control module under drivers seat) maintains a backup power charge capable of blowing the bag for about a half hour (or so the FSM says). This design maintains the functionality of the SIR system in a frontal collision if the battery is destroyed. After disconnecting the yellow connector (the wiring harness is bright yellow as well) remove the bag, install new horn buttons and reinstall.

The back-up power works, this is my first Reatta bought new in 1990. In 1995 a drunk ran a light hit my left front fender and changed my direction into a concrete pole, battery smashed. I was able to open my door, fire rescue said air bag and belts saved my life.

[Bushwack]

While chasing a squirrel out of the garage yesterday, I found an airbag (w/ horn buttons) gathering dust on a shelf (wish I could remember why I have this and if I have the steering wheel it came from). Using the picture below for clarification...

1. There are screws that need to come out (30 torx??) that hold the airbag in place (four red circles)

2. I should disconnect the yellow adapter circled in green to make sure the airbag doesn't deploy

3. There are four screws (2 on each side in blue) that equire a 20 torx. The horn buttons will come out on the air bag side (do I need to remove the rectangular metal bracket that holds the horn buttons in place?).

4. As for the spring device circled in purple with two leads that connect just above each horn button....Is this what Kevin and Steve are referring to? I just need to be careful not to disturb them as I remove the air bag, correct?

Thanks.

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[Guest Northwestsun]

If you're trying to just get the buttons out all you need to do is undo the four torx screws (which you have circled in blue). The buttons (push part and housings) should then just fall out. Don't see any need to tinker with anything else here...

FSM states to keep the front of the SIR assembly pointed "Away" from you.

Northwestsun... (Yes it is today!)

[Barney Eaton]

I believe all the warning in the FSM are pure CYA statements. If the air bag was that sensetive it would go off when you closed the door.

I have changed at least 10 horn buttons and after the first couple don't take the time to remove the air bag module from the car. I unscrew the two screws that hold the button, take it out and install the new one.

Also you cannot normally replace the "button" without changing the entire unit.

There were 3 engineering levels of button assemblies.

(1) has a hooked retainer on each end. they tend to flex with heat and either break or pop out if you do not push squarely on the button.

(2) same design but GM did the "fishing line fix" to retain the button until the molds were changed for design 3

(3) GM add two more hooked retainer/guides to the design. This changed both the button and the holder.....so you cannot put a design 3 button in an 1 or 2 holder.

[Bushwack]

Done...and it only took two hours! Next time if I need to replace the horn buttons it should take more then an hour (allowing 30 minutes of wait time after disconnecting the battery). Appreciate all the advice.

FYI for future reference for a first timer, it is best for the air bag (steering wheel) to be in a north/south position for easier access to the four rear screws. Do this prior to disconnecting the battery.

[Guest gbw]

Also cannot stress enough to be careful with the horn lead as Steve has pointed out. It rotates into a plastic cylinder with a retention notch. If you pull it out without turning, or turn the wrong way, it will break the plastic cylinder and then you have to disassemble the entire column to replace the turn signal cancel cam/horn contact ring.

I had to do this recently (not due to being careless with airbag removal, the plastic piece just broke from age related stress) and it is not an enjoyable project, to be sure.

KDirk

I was not careful enough and broke the retention notch off the plastic cylinder that holds the horn lead. Now it seems a simple job has become more complex. Any suggestions on what to do next? Do I need to source a new "turn signal cancel cam/horn contact ring"? Any suggestions on where to find one?

Then I guess I'll need to pull the steering wheel and stuff. I'll keep searching about that to see what involved.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I just got this car running again after sitting for a while and now I broke the horn. I'm kicking myself.

Thanks for any help

Greg

90 Reatta, 54,000 miles

ChicagoLand

[Machiner 55]

Greg,

I see that you have a '90.

I recently replaced the horn buttons in my '90.

When I removed the assembly, the horn lead came out without my having to do anything.

I should have had to push the lead down and turn the lead but didn't. It came right out.

When I went to install it, I couldn't get the little "nib" to grab anywhere inside the connector tube. I looked into the tube with a super-bright flashlight and couldn't see anything wrong inside the tube. Thinking that this would be a bigger job than planned, it would have to wait until a later date. So I just put the the plastic lead back in the tube and reattached the horn/airbag assembly to the steering wheel.

And guess what. The horn works just fine. Apparently, there's very little clearance between the end of the spring loaded connector and the underside of the

airbag assembly so it is holding it down and in place.

You could try this and see if it'll work for you. I don't think it would hurt anything.

John F.

[Guest gbw]

Thanks for the reply John! I read somewhere last night about a guy who drilled a hole in a rubber stopper and used it to hold the connector in place. So I hit Home Depot for a 60 cent stopper this morning.

Drilling a 1/4 inch hole in didn't go exactly as planned, but worked well enough.

The whole thing is back together now and horn works! Hopefully there is so little clearance back there that it won't work itself out of the hole.

Thanks!

Greg