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Awesome set up you guys have here. But just an inquiry what type of wheels and tires would best recommend in every trailer that is bang for the bucks?

I won't have a trailer unless it has load range E tires on it. I see so many people towing their expensive cars around on load range C tires that are pretty marginal to be hauling a car. Most trucks come from the factory with load range D or E tires, so why should a trailer that is designed to haul 3,000 lbs or more have tires on it that aren't even up to standard for a 1/2 ton truck? Always buy the heavy duty tires. I drive a LOT and have seen people killed because their light duty tires gave way on their trailer causing them to spin out of control.

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  • 5 years later...

Here are mine!

 

 The Trucks... GMC 2500 HD & Chevy 3500. Duramax diesels with my many modifications for fuel mileage.  Except for tires & wheels they are interchangeable in every way, so if there is an issue with one, I can jump in the other.

 

 The Trailers...Featherlite aluminum open trailer & Ameri-lite aluminum 24ft enclosed trailer. Wheels, tires, brakes, winches, etc all the same, so if there is a problem I can snitch something off one to use on the other to still make a trip.

 

God bless

Bill

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here's mine.

Twenty four foot Alliance trailer, with home made escape door, to haul a '40 Buick LTD.

I split a 2x4 and screwed a set of guide rails to the floor.

Just line her up on the red tabs and drive in hands free, or use the winch.

 

Mike in Colorado

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My rig -- Ford F-350 dually with crew cab and long bed, plus a 28-foot Featherlite trailer (a 2002 model that's extremely high quality). I'm running 16-inch Michelin Rib tires on the 8-lug axles. I'm hauling 5,000-to-6,000-pound cars cross country a couple times a year. Next trailer will be a triple axle with left-side exit door, though exit isn't currently a problem since I'm hauling cars with running boards. A word to the wise -- overbuy at the beginning. I wasted time and money on undersized trucks and trailers before graduating to this.

 

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The triple will stop so much better you won’t believe it. Get it with 3 torflex 8K axles.......7&8 are the same except the magnets are stronger on the 8’s. I have a spread triple so the entire car is over six tires, and the tounge is only carrying the trailer weight. I have 90k on my Sailun trailer tires and for the first time in five years serviced my “new” trailer this week. Brake shoes were 50 percent worn, but I replaced them anyways, magnets looked new. Did bearings and seals. Rotated the tires, and figure I have another 30k on them......yes, with the spread and all the dragging I will get 120k out of a set of tires on the trailer.....they are G rated 110 psi and weigh in at 62 lbs new. All for 130 dollars each. Fantastic rubber, I wouldn’t run anything else. I switched to GMC after seven F350 Powerstroke trucks.......only for the Allison and the extra power. As a Ford guy, I’m sure I made the right decision. All my cars are big boy toys......very heavy. We run with a truckload of tools, spare parts, and extras......and manage 75 mph on average. All safe and secure. My current tag trailer is 34 feet.........and I like all the extra space and cabinets. I’ll never haul with a two axle unit ever again. 
 

 

My trailer is rated at 21k, and my rubber is good for 24.6k.......and the entire trailer and car is never over 18k,  and usually less............decent margin for safety, and in Florida, I comfortably run 80 mph on the open roads with no traffic.

 

 

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Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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  • 3 months later...

I have a 2004 Chevy 2500HD with the Duramax/Allison combo. Bought it used with 39k, it has 115k now. Only issues is injectors (it's an LB7) and I had to re-do the job once, because the shop I paid the first time put crappy parts in. Trailer is a 2016 Cross Trailers 24 foot enclosed trailer. Bought it brand new, two 5200 lb Torflex axles, brakes on both axles, 48" RV door on the LH side, and Ez track on the floor. Works great. It is heavier than the aluminum trailers, but it was less than half the cost of the aluminum jobs, and I wasn't willing to spend 20k to pull a 15k car!

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Edited by Ken_P
typo (see edit history)
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LB7's are the best of the bunch......in my opinion, and many others. I have one I bought 3 years ago with 18K on the clock. 

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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It’s not a truck but is a trailer & tow vehicle.  


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This 1931 6 cyl Hupmobile has a strong engine.  I can easily pull the 500 pound 1937 Mullins trailer at 50 MPR on the interstate.  My biggest surprise is I get a thumbs up from most cars & 18 wheelers as they pass me. 
 

I show the car & trailer as a unit but tour without the trailer.  When on tour, I often get the question what do you tow.

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My rig: It's a 98.5 Dodge 2500 with Cummins 24 Valve diesel engine. 4x4. Auto tranny. 4.11. gears. Ideally I'd prefer a dually, manual tranny equipped truck. We live we learn...Next opportunity arises, I'd go bigger and more power. However this is adequate and gets me there and back reliably.

 

 

 

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Edited by keithb7 (see edit history)
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