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1952 Chieftain Question


Guest fatnsolo

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Guest fatnsolo

Bought a 1952 Chieftain a couple of months ago, straight eight and dual range Hydramatic. It does really well around town, mileage isn't too shabby if you keep it around 40 or 45 most of the time. Went on a short (300 mile round) trip and 60 on the interstate was pretty much tops.... mileage went down drastically. The stock rear is 3.08:1 ratio, I have a 2.56:1 out of a Chevy Nova I think will fit....... will this help the highway speeds and MPG or is this too much for the engine and trans to handle? Love driving the car, just don't want to kill it or my wallet..........

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When these cars were new they would drive quite nicely at 65 or 70 mph (all day)and easily do 75 and still give you 16 to 17 mpg. I would think that you need to have a complete tune up including tranny maybe.

The GM dealership that I worked in (1959-65) had a shop foreman who defined a tune-up as anything and everything the was required to make the vehicle run as designed. Some (many) disagreed with him and suggested that a tune up was strictly ignition and carb related. However he insisted that a valve grind, rings, bearings and even the replacement of a plugged muffler was part of a "tune-up".

We even had a small claims case that he won in 1962. The customer came in for a "tune-up", nothing specific described. "Just make it run right". He was pretty upset when he got a bill for several hundred dollars. The repairs required to make it run right included plugs, points, condenser, rotot, cap, ign wires, valve grind (with some valves, guides and springs), clutch pressure plate and disk and a muffler. The car sure did run just like new but the owner wasn't expecting to pay over a month wages for a "tune-up). The judge agreed with the dealership.

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Guest fatnsolo

Thanks, I was just concerned that I would damage the car at those speeds for long periods of time... I seldom run over 70mph anymore, for me it is not about the time I take getting there anymore, but enjoying the drive and scenery...... we try to get off interstate highways as much as possible.

Thanks again, Stan:)

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I agree with TinIndian that the car probably needs attention somewhere and if the rear axle is really a 3.08 it should not be the problem. If the car is out of breath at 60 I wonder if it is shifting into top gear?

With any old car like this a basic performance diagnosis (trying not to say tune up :) ) should be made. Get out your old dwell meter and check points, plugs and wires, and do a compression and then a leakdown test. And see if the transmission shifts correctly. AND make sure the exhaust is not restricting somewhere--could be plugged up by mouse nests or other blockages. Let us know what you find, good luck, Todd C

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I agree with TinIndian that the car probably needs attention somewhere and if the rear axle is really a 3.08 it should not be the problem. If the car is out of breath at 60 I wonder if it is shifting into top gear?

With any old car like this a basic performance diagnosis (trying not to say tune up :) ) should be made. Get out your old dwell meter and check points, plugs and wires, and do a compression and then a leakdown test. And see if the transmission shifts correctly. AND make sure the exhaust is not restricting somewhere--could be plugged up by mouse nests or other blockages. Let us know what you find, good luck, Todd C

I agree with all said above. Don't forget to make sure the heat riser valve is working. With the heat riser frozen in the closed position (meaning exhaust gasses heating the intake manifold ) the engine will perform terribly with poor mileage and poor performance and hard starting hot. This Item seems to always have been overlooked on tune ups.

D.

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Don't forget to make sure the heat riser valve is working. With the heat riser frozen in the closed position (meaning exhaust gasses heating the intake manifold ) the engine will perform terribly with poor mileage and poor performance and hard starting hot. This Item seems to always have been overlooked on tune ups.

This is absolutely an issue and I forgot to mention it.

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Guest fatnsolo

Thanks for the info, I have found someone in my area who is familiar with these transmissions and can service/adjust it. Also checked the heat riser and seems to be functioning properly, put pertronix kit with coil in the newly rebuilt distributor, fresh plugs and I believe it will be fine. It really was not "out of breath" it was just me being a bit over protective I guess. Have not owned a car I enjoy as much as this one since my youth and just want to make sure I am doing all I can to keep her going. Thanks so much for the help and advise......

Stan:)

P.S. will post some pictures as soon as I get time...... Thanks again.

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Thanks for the info, I have found someone in my area who is familiar with these transmissions and can service/adjust it. Also checked the heat riser and seems to be functioning properly, put pertronix kit with coil in the newly rebuilt distributor, fresh plugs and I believe it will be fine. It really was not "out of breath" it was just me being a bit over protective I guess. Have not owned a car I enjoy as much as this one since my youth and just want to make sure I am doing all I can to keep her going. Thanks so much for the help and advise......

Stan:)

P.S. will post some pictures as soon as I get time...... Thanks again.

Stan,

Make sure you keep your old set of points and condenser with you in the car. I have quite a few friends that have had Pertronix. One of my friends said to me..."you want to see my Pertronix??? It's as far as I could throw it off U.S.101 east of Paso Robles".:eek:

D.

Edited by helfen (see edit history)
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Guest fatnsolo

I agree, have been running Pertronix in other cars for years.......always keep a backup........ as luck would have it I have never had a problem, b ut there is the potential. I used a mallory setup this time and "Pertronix" name just as a reference point, but same setup no matter the name. Thanks for the reminder tho........ :)

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  • 2 months later...
Guest Steiner

The only issue I had with a Pertronix upgrade in my '49 is that there are no instructions for module gap to magnet ring which I found needs to be 0.030" max. The bolt-in non-adjustble plate they provide left the gap at nearly twice that. Filed out the module bracket holes so it could be positioned closer and it cured my poor running. Also you have to be careful to get the correct module as they make both a 6V and 12V version for the oldies.

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