SeanR

What did you do to your Reatta today? <ongoing thread>

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14 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

 

9044 is high? What should your ECM PROM be?

 

I would be weary of "online" information; treat it as a guide. Nothing beats OEM information- especially with an old Computer Car such as a Reatta.

 

I would never go around unplugging components that are energized.

 

IMHO

re PROM data, see above post to Ronnie ...9044 is correct

re online info. I was weary before, but more weary now. I use the manual all the time, when needed.

I don't unplug devices while energized. I've been building computers too long to do that.

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13 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

Listen to Ronnie. This is going to be another series of posts similar to "Snowdrift". 

 I would recommend you start a new post as this one may get long...

Good advice. That's my fault. The continuation of this topic is now in its own thread.

crank/no start

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Had a rough week with the Black this week. Blew a rear brake line and with cold snowy weather in an inheated garage I decided to take it to a shop for repairs. They replaced the entire brake line from under the drivers door back. I had to go to Gibson's to get a proportioning valve as they were concerned the lines would not come off the existing one. That's OK as I like to have extra parts anyhow.

 On another note I took a little time and looked around for parts that we can use on our cars and scored 2 ea. 88/89 headlight switches, 2 ea 1990 headlight switches, and 7 front ABS sensor leads.

 I know it is only December but it will be spring before we know it and these parts will be needed.

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installed a new right side transmission mount in our 1990 coupe it's off the road  for the winter so while my Bullitt Mustang is getting painted due to an idiot that didn't look before he backed up I will catch up on repair work.  The drivers door lock needs freeing up but I need to find a blue replacement door panel, the car is a Maui blue. Last year I took the str. column apart to replace the ignition key and lock and tightened up the bolts for the tilt. The switch cured my intermittent no start, however there is more damage to the column and I will have to replace it. I have one out of a 1991 riv. Does anyone know if they are the same? 

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If anyone wants a Teves ABS Master Cylinder system there is one on Ebay for $150.00 or best offer. I offered him a $80.00 delivered and he countered at 100.00 delivered. It has a broken push rod but the pump/motor with the pressure switch alone makes it a good deal. I am passing at $100.00 not because it is not worth it but that I usually buy the pump/motor for $50.00 [or less] at my local You Pick and then sell them for $150.00 delivered.

 So at $100.00 there is not enough profit for resale.

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Car has been running good but started having a vibration at stop light when warmed up, idle was good 650 rpm but it vibrated the car. I also still get a miss under load 4th gear sometimes. Since all my parts are new and verified I decided to do a little project. Pulled the intake today,  now to clean everything good and replace gaskets. I think I might have had a slight vacuum leak causing the rough idle. I did the intake cleaning on the car with seafoam but intake is still very black at the port ends.

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Well, after procrastinating since early fall, I finally replaced the front struts/mounts.  The drivers side strut bearing at the top of the mount was actually what failed on my Reatta.  I had planned to plow into this sooner but honestly the discussions here on the forum on the matter had me really giving serious second thoughts as to whether this was a DIY job I wanted to tackle.  I had all the parts sitting there and after getting quotes for labor only + alignment running $350-$450, I decided it really could not be as big a nightmare as some had encountered.  First off, knowing where others had hit snags was a big help, such as avoiding at all costs the over extension of the drive shaft.  I picked up a set of the spring compressors at AutoZone even though I intended to have the spring swap done professionally.  After getting the car on jack stands, I recompressed the spring by jacking up the wheel in isolation until the the car itself started to lift off the jack stand for the side I was lifting. Then I attached the spring compressors and snugged them up, then released the jack under the wheel allowing it to extend downward removing most all the spring tension on the strut.  I then was able to remove the strut pretty much without any effort.  From starting the initial placement on jacks to having both struts removed took me about 1.5 hours.  I bungie'd the caliper bracket on each wheel to the now empty strut tower opening just to ensure that they did not decide to move while I was out having the springs swapped to the new struts.  Took the old strut assemblies and all the new parts to Pep Boys and for just under $70 I walked away with ready to install strut assemblies...money well worth it in my book.  Putting the new assemblies back on proved a tad more challenging as the new struts even with the spring compressed simply extended more fully but with a bit of effort, I was able to get them installed in only slightly more time that it took to remove them.    I had scribed on the spindle where the old strut alignment fell and used that in doing the initial alignment.  A quick roadtest seems to indicate that  the alignment is pretty close to ideal, but I will have a 4 wheel alignment done early next week.  All in all, I ran into no more difficulty than any other typically awkward repair and nothing like I was fearing.  Really nice to have that suspension knocking racket over rough pavement now relegated to history. 

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I had been experiencing a no crank condition on my 90' vert and had read about the broken wire on the ignition lock cylinder. Well... that's what it turned out to be. I installed a new one and everything was great... for about a week. Then I was getting a no crank issue, but only when it was hot. I would let it sit for about 15-20 min. and it would crank right over. Turns out it was the theft deterrent relay. Not exactly the easiest relay to access, but now cranks over every time.

Image result for theft deterrent module location buick reatta 

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I broke my 6 engine-cradle bolts free, and was amazed to find they all came out clean with no rust other than a tad from the cage-nut.  I had no problems.. took my time and went slow.. I got lucky that despite my car being from MA, the rust was very minimal.    This is in prep. for removing my transmission to replace the main side seal.  While there I will replace all engine/transmission mounts as well as the 6 cradle isolators.  Also replacing output shaft seals, front sway bar bushings and anything else I find that needs be.  

 

Cleaned and polished turn-signal lenses.  

 

Cleaning out evaporator.

 

Replacing engine and transmission oil pan seals

 

Replacing fuel filter

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I found a real nice Red/Tan 1990 Reatta in a You Pick salvage yard just outside West Bend Wi. I have pulled numerous parts off this low mileage inside stored car. I know it was well taken care of as too many parts look like new. I think the reason it ended up there is I believe it had a Teves brake issue. At any rate among the parts I bought were the cornering lights and fog lights which were extremely clear. They are now installed on the Red. I also will be installing the 16 way drivers seat on the passenger side. The rest of the parts will be going into storage for future use.

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9 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

I found a real nice Red/Tan 1990 Reatta in a You Pick salvage yard just outside West Bend Wi. I have pulled numerous parts off this low mileage inside stored car. I know it was well taken care of as too many parts look like new. I think the reason it ended up there is I believe it had a Teves brake issue. At any rate among the parts I bought were the cornering lights and fog lights which were extremely clear. They are now installed on the Red. I also will be installing the 16 way drivers seat on the passenger side. The rest of the parts will be going into storage for future use.

i still have never seen a reatta in a local junkyard.its been a while since i saw a correct year riv.

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I grew up near West Bend. As a matter of fact when I was a teenager I went to this very yard [it was a You Pick then and is now] to pull parts for my first car. The Red needs a different transmission and I found a recently rebuilt one listed on the internet. So I called this yard and they still had it so I went there. The counter guy walked me out into the yard to show me the car with the tranny I was interested in and as we were walking to that car I passed two Reattas and 3 Rivieras [of our vintage]. Then as we came back he took me a slightly different way and showed me this Red/Tan 1990 that was like mint. A few years ago Jim Finn and I pulled some parts at Wally's near Oshkosh [a white/Burgandy 1989 that had slight front end damage I sold almost the whole interior to Kdirk] and Jim and I both commented on how this car was too nice to be there. This one is nicer then that.

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Not any more as the following are already gone; hood, trunk lid, headlights, Teves master cylinder [all these parts not by me]. Steering column is out and laying in the car.

 Parts I grabbed are cornering lights, fog lights, windshield, dash, front seats, IPC,headlight switch, inner door panels, floor mats, front lower spoiler, outside mirrors/triangle glass, and other misc. parts. I am going back for the outer door handles and try for the front ABS leads, maybe the grill and temperature control assembly [the one the vacuum hoses connect to]. 

 No this car will never see the road again... 

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14 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

Not any more as the following are already gone; hood, trunk lid, headlights, Teves master cylinder [all these parts not by me]. Steering column is out and laying in the car.

 Parts I grabbed are cornering lights, fog lights, windshield, dash, front seats, IPC,headlight switch, inner door panels, floor mats, front lower spoiler, outside mirrors/triangle glass, and other misc. parts. I am going back for the outer door handles and try for the front ABS leads, maybe the grill and temperature control assembly [the one the vacuum hoses connect to]. 

 No this car will never see the road again... 

Just curious. What did this parts haul cost $$$$$$$$  ????????????

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$525.00 But some of the Misc items I didn't mention were trunk weatherstrip, antennas [3], 2 front wheel speed sensor off the '88 that is also there. I am sure there are more parts but I can't remember.

 What I called the front spoiler wasn't, it was the front air dam.

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58 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

$525.00 But some of the Misc items I didn't mention were trunk weatherstrip, antennas [3], 2 front wheel speed sensor off the '88 that is also there. I am sure there are more parts but I can't remember.

 What I called the front spoiler wasn't, it was the front air dam.

How did you pull the windshield? For those $$$$ that seems to be a total score. Good for you..

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They price I paid included them pulling the windshield and dash. My battery pack went dead so they also pulled the drivers seat. The seats are 16 way and in great shape. I plan on using the drivers seat I just got as the passenger seat in the Red. I would put it in the 'vert but we don't drive it as much.

 BTW can I swap the seat backs from a 16 way drivers seat for a matching 16 way passenger seat? I know Jim answered this one years ago but I can't remember and now have extra seats to play with.

 I did a "search" using "Seats" and "Jim" and got my answer. The 16 way seat backs can be swapped back and forth from passenger to driver. So I am good to go. Thanks Jim!

Edited by DAVES89 (see edit history)
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36 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

They price I paid included them pulling the windshield and dash. My battery pack went dead so they also pulled the drivers seat. The seats are 16 way and in great shape. I plan on using the drivers seat I just got as the passenger seat in the Red. I would put it in the 'vert but we don't drive it as much.

 BTW can I swap the seat backs from a 16 way drivers seat for a matching 16 way passenger seat? I know Jim answered this one years ago but I can't remember and now have extra seats to play with.

 I did a "search" using "Seats" and "Jim" and got my answer. The 16 way seat backs can be swapped back and forth from passenger to driver. So I am good to go. Thanks Jim!

Your deal just got better. Is the rear glass just as scarce as the windshield?

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Thanks. The rear glass is probably rare but they usually don't get the road damage the front windshield does.

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On 3/23/2017 at 8:37 AM, DAVES89 said:

I found a real nice Red/Tan 1990 Reatta in a You Pick salvage yard just outside West Bend Wi. I have pulled numerous parts off this low mileage inside stored car. I know it was well taken care of as too many parts look like new. I think the reason it ended up there is I believe it had a Teves brake issue. At any rate among the parts I bought were the cornering lights and fog lights which were extremely clear. They are now installed on the Red. I also will be installing the 16 way drivers seat on the passenger side. The rest of the parts will be going into storage for future use.

 

Quote

Here's some pictures of Dave's new cornering lights. They are even clearer then what the pictures show.

 

corner_light-1.jpg

corner_light-2.jpg

corner_light-3.jpg

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Thanks. Maybe they would show cleaner if I would have left the lights off. It's really hard to tell with the fog lights, as they are on with the LEDs installed. But they are very clear.

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The cornering lamps were $20.00 each the fog lights I had in a box of misc. parts for $50.00. The transmission I bought was $250.00 [on the same day]. I firmly believe that most yards care about the steel parts and not about what I consider "soft goods". I also got the head light switch for $10.00 which is as nice as any I have seen on Ebay for $10.00. This is off that 1990 that I have been bragging about.

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Currently working on refinishing the rear black rub strip on the '91 Reatta.  Looks like PO might have used a paint brush to touch up some minor scuffs.

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