SeanR

What did you do to your Reatta today? <ongoing thread>

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We were promised high winds, thunder storms and some hail tonight so I redid my garage to get all 3 cars inside. Of course nothing really happened... but what if?

 At any rate my day wasn't a total waste as there was an offering of a new front ABS sensor lead [Made in Japan] on ebay. It wasn't listed very well and I had only one competitor and bought it too cheap. I will test it to be sure it is in good working order. Can't have enough sensor leads.

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A little late in reporting this.  (Sorry I've been MIA.  Been having too much fun with my new Volt these days.)

 

In May, my wife and I drove down to Los Angeles for the All GM Car Show/Reatta Rally. In preparation for the trip, my Reatta got fresh coolant and an oil change.  We took the "scenic route" down 101.  Had a fun time checking out the cars.  Won a door prize.  Unfortunately Jay Leno didn't show up this year.  (Thanks, of course, to Ervin/Bushwack for hosting the event again!)  After the show, we drove towards San Diego and made some visits.  Return trip was a fast burn up I-5.

 

We put nearly 1000 miles on the Reatta, and it ran great.  Do need to do something about the AC though.  Maybe it is time to switch to R134a.  Might also be time to think about new windshield wipers.  The current ones came from the Craft Center 26 years ago...

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1 hour ago, wws944 said:

.  Might also be time to think about new windshield wipers.  The current ones came from the Craft Center 26 years ago...

you can't change them.then it won't be original.lol

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Attended my BCA Minuteman Chapter/POIC annual Buick/Pontiac/GMC car show at the Anheuser-Busch Brewery, Merrimack, NH, with my '91 Reatta on Sunday.  Peer judged and my Reatta was in competition with 2 Fiero's and 1 Solstice.  Sorry to say my car lost to those (crappy) Pontiacs.  Was a 140 mile round trip...Reatta ran like a top. 

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Finally! did something for the old Buick. An oil change with a new oil level sensor.  Wow getting the original metal one to crack and turn was a miserable/worrying experience I wasn't expecting. Replaced with the newer plastic style and it now works perfectly!.

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The 'vert is still tucked away along the back of my garage. No sense of urgency to get it out as it has been rainy all weekend and more coming this week.

 That front ABS lead arrived in today's mail. It has a dealer label on it so it is New Old Stock [NOS] and available to anyone who wants to buy it. I slit the bag at the plug end just to test it.  

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Installed Bosch Type III injectors today. Even though they are 26% oversized, the idle and low speed running is smoother than even before. Also found a Mahle-Clevite  1988 cam which came in the mail yesterday.

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12 hours ago, Guest of you all here said:

WE LIKE PICTURES:)

 

What happened to "lightly turbocharged?  :lol:

Pics of a fuel injector won't show much other than they are skinny and a blue-gray color (24#). Same for the cam, one looks much like another unless installed with a degree wheel and dial indicator in place. :P  I guess the sig should say Re-lightly turbocharged, thanks for pointing that out. There is a continuing story behind that I won't go in to in this thread. Just for reference, I finally found another '88 cam replacement part number and that search turned up a new, in the box cam on ebay for a decent price. The Clevite number is 229-2211 and looks correct based on a quick visual and caliper check.

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AFter diagnosing the cruise servo some months back using the info on Ronnies site ...I finally changed out the servo with a rebuilt unit and now cruise functions perfectly. That was the last non functional unit in the car...now on to the half baked stuff!

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My paint store color matches thru their computer, then puts base coat in a rattle can, then I spray clear over such from rattle can also. 

 

I get a deal $11.20 for a can, the can has great nozzle, wide fan spray.

 

Dale in Indy

 

P.S.  My dealer is DuPont, but now under a different name. 

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Yesterday afternoon the Red turned 250,000 miles. Song on the MP3 player?  Eve of Destruction...

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This weekend we have been experiencing high temps [low to mid ninetys] with humidity well above 60% I decided to get a reading on the low pressure side while driving. It read -1 to 8/9 and then cycle back down to -1 again which from what I was told is right about where it should be.

  I sure like the diagnostic feature of the Reatta!

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This weekend wet took a tour of the Tail of The Dragon at Deals Gap today. 318 curves in 11 miles! And then we drove the  Cades Code 11 mile Loop all in the same day.. Got some photos for you below..

 

 

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My wife took the 'vert to work yesterday and called me after getting there. Someone told her that the brake lights weren't working, so I drove over and picked it up. I had been having problems with a lot of the exterior lights so I thought today is the day to address this.

 One corner light didn't work as a running light but worked as a directional, so I swapped a relay from the Red and that worked. Took a relay from backstock and put it in the Red so all running lights work. Then checked the fuse box and saw that the emergency flasher/brake fuse was blown, swapped that and got the brake lights/flashers working. Noticed that two high mount brake bulbs were blown. Then on to the turn signals. Wasn't getting a "clicking" noise from the flasher so I went into the dash and swapped the turn signal flasher with the emergency flasher. Now they worked so I knew I needed a new flasher. Job wasn't bad because two years ago I swapped out the flashers and "pulled down" the connectors so had easy access. 

 So off to AutoZone to buy a new flasher and two #891 bulbs for the high mount brake lights. Got home and installed the new flasher for the directional moving the original flasher back to the Emergency flasher plug. Didn't install the light bulbs as I decided to go "shopping" at Gibson's as there was no way I was going to pay $10.00 each for light bulbs. Found 7 at Gibson's and got all of them for $1.00 plus a Mountain Dew for the counter guy.

 Installed the bulbs, checked my work and everything is all good.

 Should have been more diligent on this, but at least it is repaired.  

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I've been slowly taking the things apart to get into the climate control system to change out a bad evaporator core. In the FSM it said to remove a bunch of items under the hood and then go inside up under the dash. I took out the seat and the cover below the glove box getting ready to dig in under the dash then I went out under the hood. So..... I dis-assembled  as per the FSM. Turns out I never needed to go under the dash at all. The procedure is to dis-assemble the AC module components from the firewall under the hood. It would be a much easier job if the engine was not in there but it is doable. I pulled out the (badly leaking) evaporator core today. Now I am cleaning and painting all the components to begin re-assembly. This job actually turned out to be kind of a PITA but I'm getting it done.

Edited by fordrodsteven (see edit history)
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I'm glad you are tackling the core.

I pulled one once but it was done while disassembling my '88 so I didn't have to be careful about getting it out so long as the core wasn't damaged. The engine was out and still, I remember thinking that I hope I never have to pull one from a working vehicle.

I didn't want to say this earlier as I didn't want to discourage you in your attempt.

Good luck and keep us apprised of your progress. Don't forget... we all like pictures. :)

 

John F.

 

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Tomorrow if it doesn't rain I will be doing a little detailing on the Red. It has to sit outside as the 'vert and my wife's car gets "inside" preference...

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Thanks John, I got it done. In total probably took me about 8 hours of actual labor. Tore up my forearms a little bit jamming my hands down in there but I got it done! I've done jobs that I consider a lot worse. I was just a little concerned I might have missed a bolt when I had to pry the metal AC module cover away from the firewall. I didn't miss any bolts and it just took a little persuasion. Now for the re-charge and I should have a nicely functioning AC in the car.

Steve

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Yes. two covers. The inner metal cover and the outer plastic (visible when you look in the engine compartment). There was a rusted hole in the bottom of the metal cover. I welded / patched it then repainted the cover. Ergo - It looks new.

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New O2 sensor installed, 79k on the motor, replaced the original one.   Car runs noticeably waayy better

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Got the passenger door electric mirror done.  Had to epoxy the broken tabs back on the motor from the last yoyo who broke them off, and fabricated a third one from a steel washer.  Then, reconnected the four wires and soldered them, after installing a little shrink tubing on each joint.   Its nice to have that mirror back on there, its been bugging me a while.  I'd post a pic but you already know what it looks like :)

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Burned two new chips today, my first ones. One for 30# injectors already installed in engine, with some programming changes,  and with that appearing to be successful, the second for the 24# Bosch Type III"s with similar changes: TCC lockup speed, corrected speedometer, raised idle speed, cooling fan cut-in temp, etc... Changed back to the Type III's to match. Time will tell with some driving to see how it all works out. Looks good so far.  

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The # rating of the injectors is the flow rate. The fuel pressure is stock. The only reason for the larger injectors is to match the target hp. range expected. Not needed for stock or mild changes such as a different intake filter configuration or opening up the rear manifold restriction, modern cat. etc.. The stock flow rate of about 19#/hr work just fine and the type 3's "should" work even better. I do have a larger Walbro pump that was installed many years ago for one of my previous turbo experiments, lack of fuel in a boosted engine is sure death. Not needed unless substantial changes to output are made.

 

 I changed the TCC lockup speed threshold to 55 mph in 3rd and 4th gear so it stays unlocked at any speed below that. It just feels a bit more responsive at moderate speeds around town. Probably doesn't help mileage :D. The cooler fan cut in temps. are to better match the 180* t'stat. The raised idle speed, about 50 rpm, was borrowed from Padgett for A/C performance, not that I really need it but it seemed like a good idea. I found, by accident, that the speedometer reading appears to be changeable. There are two figures, one is a road speed constant of pulses per mile and there is also an adjustable pulse divider. I have slightly shorter tires, 225/55-16, and the speedo was always just a bit off from true, so I changed the pulse divider by 1% or so. I have yet to proof it out for accuracy. The "learning ranges" for the ECM were adjusted a bit to better match the actual speed/rpm ranges I operate in with the higher speed limits in some places. That was done previously by Ryan at GM Tuners and I just copied that. May or may not be useful. Most of what I am fooling around with is for the two different turbocharger systems that I have, low boost and very low boost and having the ability to burn chips just helps the tuning process. Eventually I will get an emulator to run direct from the laptop to tune, but I am old and about 20 years late, plus a pure novice.

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The other day, my Reatta decided to die while sitting in the left turn lane in 103 degree temps with the engine running about 208.  Just before it died, there was a noticable high pitched noise.  Got it pushed thru the intersection by a very nice cop who happened to see my situation.  Parked it under a tree in a shopping mall across from the intersection.  I could get it to start but it idled like hell so I decided to NOT attempt to drive it home.  The cop took me home (first time I had EVER been in the back seat of a patrol car!).  Came back later and it cranked off perfectly and ran fine.  Drove it home and since I had just been thru a complete replacement of the ignition system components and I was setting NO codes, I decided to blame the IAC side of things (seemed logical).  I pulled the IAC as well as the MAF and the MAF housing and cleaned everything.  There was some build up on the IAC pintle as well as in the housing as this was the first time in 26+ years and 140K+ miles that any of these had been serviced.

 

After the cleaning and reassembly, the car fired up and idled better than I could remember in years.  Not that it had been idling roughly, but the idle integrity was way more positive and the engine just purred.  Have not any more issues and the temps have been as hot or hotter since, so I suspect that the problem was the IAC pintle stuck in the housing due to a combination of the heat and the buildup.

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Little by little I've been replacing original parts on my '89 coupe daily driver with 129,450 miles.

In early June the alternator crapped out about two hours away from home, but I was able to drive it back (with all the noise at low idle) and get it replaced without any other issues.

Then, on Tuesday of this week the original harmonic balancer went South.  Out of the blue, with NO advance notice, and the loud noise about took me out of the seat.  No sweat, it was fixed the next morning.

Today, while driving around town running errands, I noticed the temperature climbing. climbing, and climbing every time I sat at a light or going slow.  Naturally I was running the A/C since it was 92 and humid, but the only way I could keep the temp below 240 was to rev the engine when stopped.  On the way home I stopped by my corner garage that does all my mechanical work and was informed the water pump was shot and was leaking coolant.  About an hour later I had a new water pump and a cool running Reatta once again.  The water pump was also the original.

So, what's next?  The A/C has been converted and works great.  No issues with the power steering or brakes, yet.  The battery was replaced last year.  What should I expect to replace next?

Not in any way complaining because I LOVE MY REATTA.

Edited by raleets
typo (see edit history)

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