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What did you do to your Reatta today? <ongoing thread>


SeanR
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14 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

 

9044 is high? What should your ECM PROM be?

 

I would be weary of "online" information; treat it as a guide. Nothing beats OEM information- especially with an old Computer Car such as a Reatta.

 

I would never go around unplugging components that are energized.

 

IMHO

re PROM data, see above post to Ronnie ...9044 is correct

re online info. I was weary before, but more weary now. I use the manual all the time, when needed.

I don't unplug devices while energized. I've been building computers too long to do that.

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13 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

Listen to Ronnie. This is going to be another series of posts similar to "Snowdrift". 

 I would recommend you start a new post as this one may get long...

Good advice. That's my fault. The continuation of this topic is now in its own thread.

crank/no start

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  • 3 weeks later...

Had a rough week with the Black this week. Blew a rear brake line and with cold snowy weather in an inheated garage I decided to take it to a shop for repairs. They replaced the entire brake line from under the drivers door back. I had to go to Gibson's to get a proportioning valve as they were concerned the lines would not come off the existing one. That's OK as I like to have extra parts anyhow.

 On another note I took a little time and looked around for parts that we can use on our cars and scored 2 ea. 88/89 headlight switches, 2 ea 1990 headlight switches, and 7 front ABS sensor leads.

 I know it is only December but it will be spring before we know it and these parts will be needed.

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installed a new right side transmission mount in our 1990 coupe it's off the road  for the winter so while my Bullitt Mustang is getting painted due to an idiot that didn't look before he backed up I will catch up on repair work.  The drivers door lock needs freeing up but I need to find a blue replacement door panel, the car is a Maui blue. Last year I took the str. column apart to replace the ignition key and lock and tightened up the bolts for the tilt. The switch cured my intermittent no start, however there is more damage to the column and I will have to replace it. I have one out of a 1991 riv. Does anyone know if they are the same? 

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  • 2 weeks later...

If anyone wants a Teves ABS Master Cylinder system there is one on Ebay for $150.00 or best offer. I offered him a $80.00 delivered and he countered at 100.00 delivered. It has a broken push rod but the pump/motor with the pressure switch alone makes it a good deal. I am passing at $100.00 not because it is not worth it but that I usually buy the pump/motor for $50.00 [or less] at my local You Pick and then sell them for $150.00 delivered.

 So at $100.00 there is not enough profit for resale.

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Car has been running good but started having a vibration at stop light when warmed up, idle was good 650 rpm but it vibrated the car. I also still get a miss under load 4th gear sometimes. Since all my parts are new and verified I decided to do a little project. Pulled the intake today,  now to clean everything good and replace gaskets. I think I might have had a slight vacuum leak causing the rough idle. I did the intake cleaning on the car with seafoam but intake is still very black at the port ends.

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  • 1 month later...

Well, after procrastinating since early fall, I finally replaced the front struts/mounts.  The drivers side strut bearing at the top of the mount was actually what failed on my Reatta.  I had planned to plow into this sooner but honestly the discussions here on the forum on the matter had me really giving serious second thoughts as to whether this was a DIY job I wanted to tackle.  I had all the parts sitting there and after getting quotes for labor only + alignment running $350-$450, I decided it really could not be as big a nightmare as some had encountered.  First off, knowing where others had hit snags was a big help, such as avoiding at all costs the over extension of the drive shaft.  I picked up a set of the spring compressors at AutoZone even though I intended to have the spring swap done professionally.  After getting the car on jack stands, I recompressed the spring by jacking up the wheel in isolation until the the car itself started to lift off the jack stand for the side I was lifting. Then I attached the spring compressors and snugged them up, then released the jack under the wheel allowing it to extend downward removing most all the spring tension on the strut.  I then was able to remove the strut pretty much without any effort.  From starting the initial placement on jacks to having both struts removed took me about 1.5 hours.  I bungie'd the caliper bracket on each wheel to the now empty strut tower opening just to ensure that they did not decide to move while I was out having the springs swapped to the new struts.  Took the old strut assemblies and all the new parts to Pep Boys and for just under $70 I walked away with ready to install strut assemblies...money well worth it in my book.  Putting the new assemblies back on proved a tad more challenging as the new struts even with the spring compressed simply extended more fully but with a bit of effort, I was able to get them installed in only slightly more time that it took to remove them.    I had scribed on the spindle where the old strut alignment fell and used that in doing the initial alignment.  A quick roadtest seems to indicate that  the alignment is pretty close to ideal, but I will have a 4 wheel alignment done early next week.  All in all, I ran into no more difficulty than any other typically awkward repair and nothing like I was fearing.  Really nice to have that suspension knocking racket over rough pavement now relegated to history. 

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I had been experiencing a no crank condition on my 90' vert and had read about the broken wire on the ignition lock cylinder. Well... that's what it turned out to be. I installed a new one and everything was great... for about a week. Then I was getting a no crank issue, but only when it was hot. I would let it sit for about 15-20 min. and it would crank right over. Turns out it was the theft deterrent relay. Not exactly the easiest relay to access, but now cranks over every time.

Image result for theft deterrent module location buick reatta 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I broke my 6 engine-cradle bolts free, and was amazed to find they all came out clean with no rust other than a tad from the cage-nut.  I had no problems.. took my time and went slow.. I got lucky that despite my car being from MA, the rust was very minimal.    This is in prep. for removing my transmission to replace the main side seal.  While there I will replace all engine/transmission mounts as well as the 6 cradle isolators.  Also replacing output shaft seals, front sway bar bushings and anything else I find that needs be.  

 

Cleaned and polished turn-signal lenses.  

 

Cleaning out evaporator.

 

Replacing engine and transmission oil pan seals

 

Replacing fuel filter

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  • 2 weeks later...

I found a real nice Red/Tan 1990 Reatta in a You Pick salvage yard just outside West Bend Wi. I have pulled numerous parts off this low mileage inside stored car. I know it was well taken care of as too many parts look like new. I think the reason it ended up there is I believe it had a Teves brake issue. At any rate among the parts I bought were the cornering lights and fog lights which were extremely clear. They are now installed on the Red. I also will be installing the 16 way drivers seat on the passenger side. The rest of the parts will be going into storage for future use.

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9 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

I found a real nice Red/Tan 1990 Reatta in a You Pick salvage yard just outside West Bend Wi. I have pulled numerous parts off this low mileage inside stored car. I know it was well taken care of as too many parts look like new. I think the reason it ended up there is I believe it had a Teves brake issue. At any rate among the parts I bought were the cornering lights and fog lights which were extremely clear. They are now installed on the Red. I also will be installing the 16 way drivers seat on the passenger side. The rest of the parts will be going into storage for future use.

i still have never seen a reatta in a local junkyard.its been a while since i saw a correct year riv.

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I grew up near West Bend. As a matter of fact when I was a teenager I went to this very yard [it was a You Pick then and is now] to pull parts for my first car. The Red needs a different transmission and I found a recently rebuilt one listed on the internet. So I called this yard and they still had it so I went there. The counter guy walked me out into the yard to show me the car with the tranny I was interested in and as we were walking to that car I passed two Reattas and 3 Rivieras [of our vintage]. Then as we came back he took me a slightly different way and showed me this Red/Tan 1990 that was like mint. A few years ago Jim Finn and I pulled some parts at Wally's near Oshkosh [a white/Burgandy 1989 that had slight front end damage I sold almost the whole interior to Kdirk] and Jim and I both commented on how this car was too nice to be there. This one is nicer then that.

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Not any more as the following are already gone; hood, trunk lid, headlights, Teves master cylinder [all these parts not by me]. Steering column is out and laying in the car.

 Parts I grabbed are cornering lights, fog lights, windshield, dash, front seats, IPC,headlight switch, inner door panels, floor mats, front lower spoiler, outside mirrors/triangle glass, and other misc. parts. I am going back for the outer door handles and try for the front ABS leads, maybe the grill and temperature control assembly [the one the vacuum hoses connect to]. 

 No this car will never see the road again... 

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14 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

Not any more as the following are already gone; hood, trunk lid, headlights, Teves master cylinder [all these parts not by me]. Steering column is out and laying in the car.

 Parts I grabbed are cornering lights, fog lights, windshield, dash, front seats, IPC,headlight switch, inner door panels, floor mats, front lower spoiler, outside mirrors/triangle glass, and other misc. parts. I am going back for the outer door handles and try for the front ABS leads, maybe the grill and temperature control assembly [the one the vacuum hoses connect to]. 

 No this car will never see the road again... 

Just curious. What did this parts haul cost $$$$$$$$  ????????????

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$525.00 But some of the Misc items I didn't mention were trunk weatherstrip, antennas [3], 2 front wheel speed sensor off the '88 that is also there. I am sure there are more parts but I can't remember.

 What I called the front spoiler wasn't, it was the front air dam.

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58 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

$525.00 But some of the Misc items I didn't mention were trunk weatherstrip, antennas [3], 2 front wheel speed sensor off the '88 that is also there. I am sure there are more parts but I can't remember.

 What I called the front spoiler wasn't, it was the front air dam.

How did you pull the windshield? For those $$$$ that seems to be a total score. Good for you..

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They price I paid included them pulling the windshield and dash. My battery pack went dead so they also pulled the drivers seat. The seats are 16 way and in great shape. I plan on using the drivers seat I just got as the passenger seat in the Red. I would put it in the 'vert but we don't drive it as much.

 BTW can I swap the seat backs from a 16 way drivers seat for a matching 16 way passenger seat? I know Jim answered this one years ago but I can't remember and now have extra seats to play with.

 I did a "search" using "Seats" and "Jim" and got my answer. The 16 way seat backs can be swapped back and forth from passenger to driver. So I am good to go. Thanks Jim!

Edited by DAVES89 (see edit history)
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36 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

They price I paid included them pulling the windshield and dash. My battery pack went dead so they also pulled the drivers seat. The seats are 16 way and in great shape. I plan on using the drivers seat I just got as the passenger seat in the Red. I would put it in the 'vert but we don't drive it as much.

 BTW can I swap the seat backs from a 16 way drivers seat for a matching 16 way passenger seat? I know Jim answered this one years ago but I can't remember and now have extra seats to play with.

 I did a "search" using "Seats" and "Jim" and got my answer. The 16 way seat backs can be swapped back and forth from passenger to driver. So I am good to go. Thanks Jim!

Your deal just got better. Is the rear glass just as scarce as the windshield?

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On 3/23/2017 at 8:37 AM, DAVES89 said:

I found a real nice Red/Tan 1990 Reatta in a You Pick salvage yard just outside West Bend Wi. I have pulled numerous parts off this low mileage inside stored car. I know it was well taken care of as too many parts look like new. I think the reason it ended up there is I believe it had a Teves brake issue. At any rate among the parts I bought were the cornering lights and fog lights which were extremely clear. They are now installed on the Red. I also will be installing the 16 way drivers seat on the passenger side. The rest of the parts will be going into storage for future use.

 

Quote

Here's some pictures of Dave's new cornering lights. They are even clearer then what the pictures show.

 

corner_light-1.jpg

corner_light-2.jpg

corner_light-3.jpg

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The cornering lamps were $20.00 each the fog lights I had in a box of misc. parts for $50.00. The transmission I bought was $250.00 [on the same day]. I firmly believe that most yards care about the steel parts and not about what I consider "soft goods". I also got the head light switch for $10.00 which is as nice as any I have seen on Ebay for $10.00. This is off that 1990 that I have been bragging about.

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Currently working on refinishing the rear black rub strip on the '91 Reatta.  Looks like PO might have used a paint brush to touch up some minor scuffs.

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Been working on several things last couple of weeks, Solved the random Misfire, it was an induction issue with OX sensor even thou they were not very close to anything. I did the radio pre-amp mod last year and had a very small Sony amp wired to it. The Sony amp decided to blow a cap and burnt up, what a smell. My Son gave me a bigger amp last year so it was time to install it with a sub to add some low end.  Here are some pictures. The Sub is an

8 inch JL Audio made for small enclosures.

I am getting ready to go the the Reatta Reunion at the Charlotte Auto Fair next weekend. I will post some picture when I get back. Had a great time last year.

IMG_20170402_144200.jpg

IMG_20170402_144217.jpg

IMG_20170402_144235.jpg

Edited by Dashmaster (see edit history)
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89RedDG...you read my mind.  I bought all three products recently while on Amazon to redo the rub strip.  I don't plan on removing the rear bumper or components.  I'll just do a lot of masking.

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Bass is really good inside car, Distance matches the lower wavelengths very well in this position. I am also not getting any rattles or other odd panel vibrations, Lost very little trunk space and can remove the spare tire. The Human Ear can sense bass 2 ways, direct vibration of the eardrum and or able to hear the wave lengths. Lower Wavelengths are very long.  This is why Subs in trucks sound better outside the cab is due to not enough of the wavelength for you ear to pickup will fit inside the cab, inside the bass you hear is more from the Vibration from the sub. When I Installed Car Stereo's professionally, we had deaf customers that would buy large amp and only subs, they could not hear it but could pickup the direct vibrations. 

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replaced the crappy previously replaced aftermarket antenna with a new one, hopefully of better quality. Found the correct adapter (although descriptions didn't make this an easy task) working 100% now...on to the next little project...(hopefully doing the rear lens with the spar coating and other odds and ends before getting to the driver side window motor., 

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Sunday I decided to take my recently purchased 16 way seat and install it on the passenger side of the Red. This will give me two 16 way seats in the car. It was easier then I thought it would be. First I removed the control pod on the side of the seat and removed the button panel from the pod. Then I removed the front bolts holding the seat rails to the bottom of the seat and slid the seat pod switch wires along the rail, out the front and then back under the rail on the other side of the seat. I then put the switch panel back in the pod and the pod back onto the "new" side of the seat.

 I know the guide plate on the pod will be backwards but who really looks down at them anyway? There is one for sale on Ebay but I am not paying $125.00 for one. I have a client who owns a sign shop. If I spend money on that I will spend it with someone who does business with me [and I may get it cheaper].

 The only real complication I had was one motor was bad so I replaced the plate that has the 3 motors riveted to it. I will be installing the seat today. 

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15 minutes ago, HuevosRanchero said:

replaced the crappy previously replaced aftermarket antenna with a new one, hopefully of better quality. Found the correct adapter (although descriptions didn't make this an easy task) working 100% now...on to the next little project...(hopefully doing the rear lens with the spar coating and other odds and ends before getting to the driver side window motor., 

 Good luck with the rear lens. I am sure you will like the end product. I am doing the Black's taillight before I put it away for the summer {I just got the Red out]. This time I am not taking the taillight off, I will just tape everything off , wet sand it, and apply just one coat of spar varnish. You might want to review the instructions so it goes well for you.

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6 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

 Good luck with the rear lens. I am sure you will like the end product. I am doing the Black's taillight before I put it away for the summer {I just got the Red out]. This time I am not taking the taillight off, I will just tape everything off , wet sand it, and apply just one coat of spar varnish. You might want to review the instructions so it goes well for you.

yes seeing the results inspired me to tackle this process next and its a definite eyesore on a high mileage car that sat too much before I acquired it. 

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Today, I went to use my keyless entry FOB for the '91 Reatta and it decided not to function.  So, I went through the reprogramming process only to have both FOB's fail...would not lock/unlock when I pushed the unlock buttons.  Did some investigating and found that the keyless entry module was kaput.  Arms aren't long enough to get to the module through the left hand side within the trunk.  So, I went the route of pulling the driver's rear panels off and bingo, it was easy to get to.  Had a spare, so I swapped it out and have to say I was able to reprogram the FOB's successfully.  Noticed Mr. Farnelle had one for sale on EBay.  Purchased it to put in inventory in case my '92 Riviera ends up with the same problem.

Edited by DShip (see edit history)
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Went to Gibson's yesterday for a drivers side outside mirror for her mini van. While ther I thought I would go looking for another Teves pump/motor. Found one off a recently junked [3/17] Cadillac. Also last week bought one from a yard near West Bend so now have two in inventory. I had burned up a pump/motor last week which left me with none for inventory. Had to correct that.

 When I installed the replacement pump/motor the pressure switch didn't work, but the accumulator was excellant. Stripped the accumulator off the burned up pum/motor and put it on the shelf and swapped in the pressure switch and all is good. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just crafted and installed a 170 degree thermostat from a HyperTech Power Stat #1007.  It is a dead ringer in all respects.  I had to grind down the flange to 44mm but that was simple enough.  There is a post on it for those interested. 

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Just completed a major project on the Red. Kendall, my mechanic friend and I swapped out the Red's engine for a rebuilt one with a 1988 cam, valve job, and 20 over 9.0 compression pistons. Also installed a rebuilt transmission with a new rack and pinion. Started on Monday finished Wednesday afternoon. Alignment is scheduled for Monday. I can already tell performance is better.

 Already had installed some great looking cornering lamps, fog lights, like new 1990 floor mats and a 16 way seat for the passenger. Soon to install a dash and then a front end repaint for stone chips.

  Looking forward to a great driving summer...

Edited by DAVES89 (see edit history)
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Got the alignment today. Car starts, runs and drives great. I went into ECM diagnostics through the CRT and watched the car go through the gears. I tried various accelerations and then a hard acceleration at 50 and she downshifted and then back to overdrive as it should when I eased off on the accelerator. Did the same with a "lighter" acceleration.

 I think I am set with both a good engine and tranny.

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