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What did you do to your Reatta today? <ongoing thread>


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Meant to be a daily motivational post. Anything productive that you did to your Reatta, post it here. Pictures explaining what you did would work well too! Sometimes seeing what others are doing sparks some motivation and new ways to approach problems. :D

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Awesome idea! I'll be doing a complete stereo overhaul to my '90 Driftwood coupe this week. New Infinity Kappas all the way around. Rebuilt radio module, New OEM antenna, and I've installed a OEM style slave CD player. Not overhauled yet, but more pressing things need to be taken care of on the car before that happens. ;)

Also installed a set of 16-ways last week. Hoping to have this car ready for the BCA Nationals in Concord, NC this June. :)

I'm very interested in seeing how your Keyless entry installation goes in your '88. Keep us posted!

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Done the past two weeks (as of 4/5/12):

Oil changes and new wiper blades on both Reattae

Cleaned throttle body & MAF on 88, solved stalling/rough idle issues.

Replaced most engine bay vacuum hose on 88 (dry rot), and a couple of sections on the 91.

Replaced turn signal switch assembly and cancel cam/horn ring on 91 (nasty project).

Replaced pass side front cornering lamp (complete) on 88 with NOS part. Drivers side done a couple of months ago also with complete NOS assy.

Bought matched interior colorant (burgundy) for 88 to re-shoot some plastic trim parts. Waiting for an end to pollen and tree seedlings so I can paint outside without a bunch of contaminants getting in the paint.

Getting ready to send 16 way seat switch pod and a steering wheel (and probably a "T" shaped shift handle, not stock equipment) to Craft Customs to be redone (all are chewed up to one extent or another) so the 88 will be show ready soon.

KDirk

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OK so today I was motivated to steam clean the interior. I realized that it would be faster just to soak the floor mats in TIDE powder detergent. Here's my results.

The first step is to draw a hot/warm bath with about 2" of water and half a scoop of TIDE detergent. I experienced no color bleed or problems.

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The water quickly went dark. These mats were dirtier than they looked.

I started off scrubbing them with my hands in a circular motion.

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I used a hand held sprayer on turbo mode to wash out the silt and mud.

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Even with a 1st rinse, the tub had excess silt layer. It was time for a 2nd wash.

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This is after a 2nd wash! Still dirty. Be sure to rub fingers back and forth just over the surface of the water to help the suds lift off the dirt layer.

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I kept rinsing until no more silt was in the rinse water.

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I then put the mats against the shower wall and squeegeed with my hand down each side of the mat to ring out excess water.

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Final results:

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What you think?

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Marck,

Went to the auto parts store I almost always go to (local non-chain store, or FLAPS in Padgett-speak) as they give me trade pricing and are patient with my anal-retentive tendencies. They sell vacuum hose (and reinforced fuel hose) by the foot in 4 or 5 different sizes. Most major auto parts houses do the same, including Advance and O'Reilly (have bought hose from both places in the past).

I noted the 88 had moderate deterioration (from heat/age) of most vacuum tubing within the engine bay, so I picked up 20' of two sizes (can't remember the sizes off the top of my head) and just started ripping and replacing sections one at a time. Got most of it done in about an hour. Still have a few buried pieces to do when time permits.

Sean- very nicely done with the license plate lamp conversion. I may look at that myself now. Also a nice photo tutorial on proper cleaning of mats.

KDirk

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Changed bulb for the cornering lamp, driver's side. Got dirt in my eye.:o

Since sitting in the garage for years, I decided to start driving it again. Been doing lots of little things, like squeaks and rattles. Now I can really hear the brick bouncing around in the converter. The exhaust is original so I've been putting it off but it's time.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Installed 6 x 9's in 88 coupe.

I wanted to add some additional photos to help clarify the removal and install.

Once you get the top panel off by removing the brake light cover, there's a mm bolt, and two screws covering the coat hook and seat belt pulley cover. There's a grommet near the seat belt so be careful when pulling away from the pillar.

The lower rounded panel has three screws near the cargo entry and three grommets near the door.

attachment.php?attachmentid=128118&d=1336026996

Interesting to find a body VIN tag here.

attachment.php?attachmentid=128116&d=1336026996

attachment.php?attachmentid=128117&stc=1&d=1336026996

Use a pry tool like this one to keep from breaking grommet brackets. Use thumbs to evenly disperse pressure when pulling the panels while trying to hold on to the grommets.

attachment.php?attachmentid=128122&stc=1&d=1336026996

I also used that tool to solve another creak problem. Two metal braces were rubbing against each other and creaking whenever going over a bump or entering a driveway. I was able to pry and bend the upper bracket up and away from the other one. This upper bracket also hold part of the plastic speaker enclosure. All this time, I just assumed the creaking noise was the vinyl rubbing against each other.

Take your time and the R&R will go smooth. The 6 x 9 upgrade is amazingly better as well as the Infinity Kappa 692.i's. :D

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Sean, I can't seem to see your pictures. :( Could you try it again?

The 6x9" Kappas are really an excellent upgrade. They put out quite a bit of bass without the need for an external amp or subwoofer.

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Went out to Gibson's last week and found a '93 Regal Gran Sort had just come in. It had a very nice 3 spoke gray leather steering wheel [very similar to the Reatta]. It has a slightly larger diameter grip which I think will be a bit more comfortable. All I had to do was install a 2" diameter Reatta pin that I bought off the internet. It covers up the Buick Trishield logo.

Pics to follow...

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Past couple weeks, exterior of all cars have been clayed, some clear coat treatment using Meguiar's Ultimate Compound for swirls and light to medium scratches (MeguiarsDirect.com: Ultimate Compound), applied 4-5 coats of Zaino (Zaino Store) and a thorough interior detail using Lexol products (Lexol Auto Care).

New adoptee has also received new bell cranks, chrome exhaust tips, sun visor clips and three treatments of MeGuiar's PlastX for the taillights (MeguiarsDirect.com: PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish). All that's left: Replacing the CD player, re-attach lose bottom of driver's door panel, new horn buttons and re-paint center brake light housing. Mechanically, all cars are good. Each has received the Seafoam treatment (w/o going through the vacuum line).

Have to decide soon which car will appear at the (wait for it....wait for it....) Reatta Rally (ReattaDriver.com, Reatta Rally) :cool:

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Installed 6 x 9's in 88 coupe.

I wanted to add some additional photos to help clarify the removal and install.

Once you get the top panel off by removing the brake light cover, there's a mm bolt, and two screws covering the coat hook and seat belt pulley cover. There's a grommet near the seat belt so be careful when pulling away from the pillar.

The lower rounded panel has three screws near the cargo entry and three grommets near the door.

Interesting to find a body VIN tag here.

Use a pry tool like this one to keep from breaking grommet brackets. Use thumbs to evenly disperse pressure when pulling the panels while trying to hold on to the grommets.

I also used that tool to solve another creak problem. Two metal braces were rubbing against each other and creaking whenever going over a bump or entering a driveway. I was able to pry and bend the upper bracket up and away from the other one. This upper bracket also hold part of the plastic speaker enclosure. All this time, I just assumed the creaking noise was the vinyl rubbing against each other.

Take your time and the R&R will go smooth. The 6 x 9 upgrade is amazingly better as well as the Infinity Kappa 692.i's. :D

post-57130-14313895046_thumb.jpg

post-57130-143138950477_thumb.jpg

post-57130-143138950494_thumb.jpg

post-57130-143138950509_thumb.jpg

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I attempted to remove the brake pressure accumulator. I unscrewed it, but was unable to remove it. The metal piece above it that runs from side to side is in the way. Do you have to remove something else to gain the clearance needed?

Thanks

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no new thread needed for this one...

after finishing up my seat belt repair last night, i had left the trunk lid up (and trunk light on) for 3 or 4 days while doing repairs.

went out this evening to start her, and the battery was dead - duh - :o

i'll be giving her a bath and clay bar and wax tomorrow, weather permitting. if not, i'll be cleaning the interior and treating the leather with zaino leather cleaner and "leather in a bottle". works great, and smells so good!!! :D

i agree that "help issues" should be in a new thread, and will probably be adding some "help" threads shortly after a day or two doing "easy" stuff. :)

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Ordered a Delco coil ass'y to replace my oozing magnavox unit. Car is running fine, but hope to head off any problems........ Jim

Rec'd Delco unit 5/11. Cleaned it up a bit, will install in a few days.:)

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Rec'd Delco unit 5/11. Cleaned it up a bit, will install in a few days.:)

Installed unit Sunday. Test drive was good, haven't had a chance to really drive yet. Thanks to Padgett and Ronnie for his link on installation info. Also thnx to DAVES89. Actual time was about 45 minutes, including cleaning old goo and other areas. Spent another hour or so looking for a small extention & nut that fell into the depths of hell. Never found either one. I must take credit for not wussing out and using all 3 mounting nuts. A couple of cold ones as per procedures helped.;)

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Replaced passenger side torque rollers in the headlight motor. Such a PITA to remove the headlight bucket just so one can get to the motor! Once removed, the motor cover screws and rebuild went really smooth. :)

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after getting good medical news (no surgery at this time), i prepared and painted the underbody with por-15 products and rust encapsulator spray on the hard to reach spots.

was happy to find very little surface rust and what i thought was rust, at a quick glance when i dropped the fuel tank a couple weeks ago, was actually what appeared to be rusty antifreeze from a past blown radiator or hose...

now, after my obligatory "cold one", i think i'll clean up and paint the inner fender wheel-wells, since she's still up on jack stands. :D

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RONNIE did you see this???
Jon, I did see the wiring diagram but to be honest I don't know what to make of it without any details about the module. If you could write something up to go along with the wiring diagram I would be happy to post it if it would help others install the auto-down module.
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Yesterday started my '88 and heard screaming from under the hood. Something was seizing against the serpentine belt. Tried to do the tube to the ear to the part thing but could not be sure where the sound was coming from....my best guess was the A/C, but it was giving cold air or the idler arm or power steering ( the water pump was new but also a suspect ....could have gotten a bad one).

The screaming stopped after driving it around the block today so I decided to take it to my mechanic. Just got the word that it is the A/C compressor...must be a bearing. Now my problem is that this system is CFC-12. The shop recommends a 134a conversion but I've heard bad things can happen if you do that. 1234yf is coming as a 134a replacement but it is not yet available here. So what do I do, put back the original and find someone to recharge the CFC-12 then wait for 1234yf in the time that buys or give up and do the 134a relacement. That's what I did today but what do I do tomorrow?

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AC pulley and bearing could be replaced in the car without even cracking the system assuming your mechanic is correct about the problem. Not the easiest thing to do in the car, but do-able.

Have to take age of current compressor into account and status of rest of the system. But could buy you more time and save you money for now.

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I've bought about seven Reattas; all but one with less then 56K miles. Within 2-3 months of ownership, I've had to replace four a/c compressors. I assume the lack of miles on the odometer (and hence lack of exercise of the compressor) is why they failed. They all were also CFC-12 now converted to R134A. Not entirely sure what to make of all this but after the second failure, I consider any car not having been converted has a compressor on the brink of failure (and I negotiate accordingly).

So...just curious if there was ever a TSB or of known issues with the original compressor? Or is it just a matter of age and lack of usage (maintenance)?

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is it just a matter of age and lack of usage (maintenance)?

yes! :D

probably most are likely to age of components, and car owner manuals always used to say to run the a/c a few times in the winter to lubricate the a/c system.

but the "components" only last for so long. not only cars, but not too many house a/c's, etc. have been around and working without proper maintenance for 20 plus years...

Edited by Corvanti (see edit history)
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Yesterday started my '88 and heard screaming from under the hood. Something was seizing against the serpentine belt. Tried to do the tube to the ear to the part thing but could not be sure where the sound was coming from....my best guess was the A/C, but it was giving cold air or the idler arm or power steering ( the water pump was new but also a suspect ....could have gotten a bad one).

The screaming stopped after driving it around the block today so I decided to take it to my mechanic. Just got the word that it is the A/C compressor...must be a bearing. Now my problem is that this system is CFC-12. The shop recommends a 134a conversion but I've heard bad things can happen if you do that. 1234yf is coming as a 134a replacement but it is not yet available here. So what do I do, put back the original and find someone to recharge the CFC-12 then wait for 1234yf in the time that buys or give up and do the 134a relacement. That's what I did today but what do I do tomorrow?

It's the next day....decided to stick with the CFC-12. The cost to restore (including compressor and charge) $730, cost to convert to 134a $700 estimate. The seizing compressor was 24 years old...Thanks for the feedback

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The cost of a complete 134a conversion is about the same as replacing a compressor and recharge on an R12 system. The high cost of R12 offsets the cost of the additional components required with the conversion. Most people look to the future and anticipate needing refrigerant in the future and consider the 134a conversion more cost effective even though it costs about the same as the R12 repair. ($700)

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