SeanR

What did you do to your Reatta today? <ongoing thread>

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I never got to to meet the owner but it was as cute as a button and the people loved it :)  Just standing close to it gave you a serious desire to get it and take it for a spin.

Edited by Cargirl (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Made some inquiries, It's a Devin with a 6cyl corsair motor with quad carbs  According to Wiki: Devin Enterprises is an American automotive manufacturer that operated from 1955 to 1964. Devin was mainly known for producing high quality fiberglass car bodies that were sold as kits, but they also produced automotive accessories as well as complete automobiles. The company was founded by Bill Devin.

 

I am out of garage space but if I decided to buy one I guess I could store it in the trunk of my 1974 Delta 88!  :)

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
On 5/3/2018 at 6:36 PM, Fox W. said:

Next thing:  Replace trans/eng. mounts.  At least one is broken I think, I get a nasty sound when under-load in reverse. 

Ok I replaced the bad trans/motor mount, the RH trans mount was bad,  OE part# 1646517 ; (Anchor 2691)  I used an Anchor mount and found that I had lots of transmission and engine noise now coming through the chassis.  I did some research and found that people generally agree that you should always stick to OE if you can for trans/engine mounts, unless a really good brand like Moog makes some.   For us though, we have DEA, Westar and Anchor, which are all known to be pretty awful.   People say they are harder, louder, and break far more easy.   So now I'm after OE ones,  in particular the 1646517 which is going on ebay for no less than $330, which is a lot.  If anyone has one for sale, let me know.

 

Results with new mount:   Hum/vibration at idle in the car, where there never used to be one.  Transmission while in gear now makes it much worse.  Transmission engagement from park in to D or R is now a hard thump.  Basically the new mount is just too solid feeling, it needs to be softer.  It may get better with break-in.

Edited by Fox W. (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had purchased some A/C parts for my daughter's car from Rock Auto. Turned out I didn't need them all so I did a return tag. I needed a box to use to send them back in, and as luck would have it it the box I used to send the parts back in had a very small box in it. I opened the small box and found two Reatta Crank Sensors in it. I had used that box to take over to Kendall's when were doing the rebuilt engine/tranny install and loaded it up with parts I thought we might need. I thought  I had emptied it out completely but evidently not.

 Nice day brightener!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Summer's in Phoenix are like winters in the rest of the USA, we park our cars in summer and wait till the fall. I took the car out last night to get the fluids flowing and run the AC. Ended up in front of the world famous Fountain here in Fountain Hills.  It only goes off at the top of the hour so I guess I got lucky!  :)

reattafountain.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Replacing stop light bulbs in the rear window is easy peasy.

Tools needed are a #10 Torx and a wide bladed screw driver.

I found the page on how to do this in the service manual and it looked like a good week day job. The area behind my lens had dust bunnies and gunk inside.  I had heard from someone that you had to open the pass through and crawl in the trunk to remove the rear package shelf in order to do this job.  NOT!!!  My lights are ok so I only removed things to clean things up.

Run the driver's seat forward, crawl into the back, remove the two Torx screws from the center luggage tie down, remove the tie down and pry out the plastic panel that covers the light housing.  There are two long push-in screws at the bask of this plastic panel that simply pull out.

It was interesting to see a date scrawled on the panel of my 88.

 

DSCF2275.JPG

DSCF2276.JPG

DSCF2277.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thorough cleaning and detail. Going to a show in Eliot Maine tomorrow morning! (Father's day)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

About 3 weeks a 1989 White/Burgandy Reatta came in at Gibson's [my local You Pick] and I grabbed the IPC and CRT and a couple of other items. While the IPC worked great the CRT was no good, so yesterday I returned it and got a credit. Went back to the same Reatta and grabbed the temperature controller located below the glove box. Thought I would also look for a T style shifter handle which I found tan in color in a Cadillac. I also looked at a few LeSabres for a Coil Pack/Ignition Module which I found in a 2000 with 104,000 miles on it. Installed it also yesterday just before a 200 mile round trip to the Harley Davidson museum in Milwaukee  [put the original in the trunk just in case] and it worked great. The T Handle wasn't close enough in color so I painted it to match the 'verts interior. Looks great!

 All that on an even swap for the CRT return... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It appears most of the country is in the midst of a heat wave. Around here we hit 95 degrees with 70 percent humidty. I wanted to see how good my A/C was working so I used my CRT to help me out. I went into "Diagnostics" and went to the BCM page and read BD28. I then set the A/C to "Max Cool" and watched the low pressure side of the compressor. The best I got was "4" . The next morning before it got real hot [this time only in the 80's but still 65 percent humidity I got it down to "2". Today [Monday] it promises to be a cooler/low humidity as a cold front passed through last night and then starting Tuesday high temps/humidity again.

 I believe I am a bit overfilled, but real close so I am leaving it alone.

 However since I replaced the A/C low side pressure sensor I no longer get the -1 to +9 [and then repeat] that I used to get.  It now gives me a number and then holds it until the pressure changes the number one at a time. In other words I first got a "9" then and "8" and so on until it got to "4" then held it. It might move to "5" for a bit then back to "4".

 Anyhow the point I am making is now I think the car's A/C is giving me the informatin accurately. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A friend with a local shop offered to have his mechanic replace the camshaft and crankshaft sensors in my Reatta to solve an intermittent Engine Electrical Code error (41).  When I went to pick it up, it turned out the magnet had fallen out when they pulled the sensor, so now I had a constant Engine Electrical Control error.  They had fished out the magnet, but did not have time to pull the front of the engine to install the new magnet.  I used the recommended shortcut method this past weekend and it worked great - 20 minutes and I am back to the intermittent code.  Frustrating, since I have replaced (in order) the oil sending unit, O2 sensor, crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, and the magnet.  However, while sitting at a light, I turned on the gauges and saw the oil pressure jump from 42 psi to 67 psi and back at a steady 900 RPM idle.  So the new oil pressure sensor must have been defective.  I have an AC/Delco unit on the way and am hoping that will finally clear the issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the magnet is new it is either the sensor or the connector. Take another look with a mirror to be sure that the magnet is seated right with no obstructions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, Bob Stein said:

However, while sitting at a light, I turned on the gauges and saw the oil pressure jump from 42 psi to 67 psi and back at a steady 900 RPM idle.  So the new oil pressure sensor must have been defective.  I have an AC/Delco unit on the way and am hoping that will finally clear the issue.

 

That's not unusual for a fairly new sensor to go bad. I've heard that a lot. They must be poorly designed internally. Be sure when you install the new one that you twist on the metal part down low and not the black plastic top part.

 

I have saw where the cam sensor magnet gets damaged from a failing magnet and it doesn't work properly. You should inspect it for damage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cam and crank sensors are both new, so hopefully they will be OK.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's not the crank sensor because if it was the car wouldn't start. I would try a different cam sensor, or at least try cleaning the connector.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The connectors were clean for both units, and the magnet was situated 90 degrees and seated solidly - I rotated the camshaft fully through to make sure it did not hit anything.  The new oil pressure switch (AC/Delco) doesn't appear to fluctuate as much, but still did an occasional leap to 64 psi at steady idle.  In any case, the Electrical Control message comes up on the screen occasionally - clears after a few seconds most of the time, and sometimes stays off completely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Replaced spark plugs, PCV valve and oxygen sensor today. Then went out for a nice drive to dinner , a bit of a cruise then stopped for ice cream. The car runs better at idle (not so rough) and mileage went up from 14.7MPG to 15.7MPG.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Steve glad you are still driving a Reatta. Has your wife come to like it a little bit?

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

Hey Steve glad you are still driving a Reatta. Has your wife come to like it a little bit?

Thanks Dave, Yes she has grown somewhat accustomed to it. One reason is because I haven't had to work on it to fix anything for quite a while. She feels it might be reliable enough now. She even asked me to take the "for sale" signs out of the rear window. We are planning a little road trip this Thursday to drive it up to Wells, Maine to go to the car museum. It's about an hour and 15 minutes from home. We will probably stop in Kennebunkport on the way back and stop into the Maritime museum.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Too hot to have the top down. I took the '91 out for a drive, looks like I found the Lonely Mountain from "The Hobbit" in the back drop. 112 degrees outside and nice and cool inside.

lonelyreatta.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎7‎/‎8‎/‎2018 at 9:00 PM, fordrodsteven said:

Thanks Dave, Yes she has grown somewhat accustomed to it. One reason is because I haven't had to work on it to fix anything for quite a while. She feels it might be reliable enough now. She even asked me to take the "for sale" signs out of the rear window. We are planning a little road trip this Thursday to drive it up to Wells, Maine to go to the car museum. It's about an hour and 15 minutes from home. We will probably stop in Kennebunkport on the way back and stop into the Maritime museum.

Well that didn't turn out well at all! We decided to stop in Exeter NH to have breakfast. As we pull into the parking lot the AC cut out and dash said low on Freon. We had breakfast then I went to a parts store to buy a can of Freon and give it enough to make it work. It worked for about 20 minutes and shut down again. We turned around and went home. The next day (Friday) I looked at it and thought I found a small leak at the receiver dryer connection. I tightened the fitting and recharged the system. I ran it for an hour. It looked good. Then Saturday I started the car and it tripped out and said low Freon. Further research and lots of intense inspection of the whole system. It appears to be leaking out the center shaft of the compressor where the clutch is bolted on. I think it needs a new compressor. I pulled out my receipts from when I had it converted to R134A. Turns out it was two years and two months ago. The compressor was guaranteed for two years. Now that's perfect parts life management planning right there!!!! I just left it parked there in the yard while I decide when / how to get it fixed (myself or take it somewhere). Getting that compressor out is a PITA.

By the way..... She has again lost faith that it can be considered a reliable car. LOL. I'll win her back!!!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On Friday I picked up the new Reatta and got it to the mechanic for the provincial inspection (required to register).  We are putting new tires on to replace the 30 year old originals, but I will keep them for possible display with the car.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found a local shop that would discharge my original R12 a/c system and that was done wed. Engine is now ready to be removed to be replaced with the original engine which is fully turbocharged. While the engine is out, the plan is to replace the a/c compressor (leaks oil), condenser, accumulator, O-rings and misc. small parts. I call this my original engine but it has been modified. The short block is all original, with about 100k miles, but the compression is lowered slightly with FelPro headgaskets, a used '88 cam, and the ported '88 heads I got from Daves89.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now