Request pic of 89-91 RKE module

[SeanR]

Does anyone have a part # and a picture of the 89-91 RKE? This is the remote keyless module black box tucked in behind the driver rear quarter panel and connects to the S310 wiring harness under the seat.

Im interested to know if there are 1, 2, or 3 plugs. Would be helpful to get the wiring harness colors and pinouts as well.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

The module has one connector for the electrical connections and one connector for the antenna input.

A sketch of the module and the connector pin-outs are in the FSM. If I knew what year Reatta you have I could give you the page numbers they are on.

In the 90 FSM the connector diagram is on page 202-24, and the module is on page 201-14C for a coupe.

[Ronnie]

A photo of the module can be seen in the link below.

Padgett's Electronic Parts Reference*-*ReattaOwner.com

Thanks to Padgett for the information.

[SeanR]

Thanks guys. Mine is an 88 and going to attempt retrofit to the anti-theft module unlock signal. Trying to find a comparable GM module. Some have two or three plugs and I'm trying to understand why. What's the Delco part # for this module? its hard to make out.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Thanks guys. Mine is an 88 and going to attempt retrofit to the anti-theft module unlock signal. Trying to find a comparable GM module. Some have two or three plugs and I'm trying to understand why. What's the Delco part # for this module? its hard to make out.

Delco One Touch Entry System

GM Part No. 22093185

[KDirk]

SeanR,

May be interested in talking to you if/when you have done this. I am planning the same, but have not yet resolved the particulars of keeping the anti-theft system happy when adding RKE. Have all the parts on hand, but lack the time presently to do it.

KDirk

[SeanR]

OK cool. Here's my raw notes I've been collecting from various threads. Astro vans, Corvettes, Buicks, etc. One thread that was really helpful was this C4 Corvette guy with factory UTD device similar to the Reattas.

The corvette guy tried to disarm using the keyfob but the alarm went off anyway when he opened the door. He was unaware of the key cylinder disable method and just drove home with the horn blaring. The passkey system was discovered to be a separate function which explained why he was able to drive it home. Looks like from Saturn to Corvette, these things are prone to malfunction and partially get disabled.

Looks like S311 also distributes power to the power door locks and door warning lights. (And keyless entry - if you had an '89.)

my next hurdle will be to find out how and where I will find the wires I need to disable the factory security system. Once you lock the doors with the power lock button and shut the door the security system stays armed until you unlock the car with the KEY to disarm it. Using the power unlock button will NOT disarm the factory security system. The keyless entry kit that I have has the wiring needed to disarm the factory security system.

There is a green wire that is used for that, but I forget the position. Hey if you have a factory anti-theft unit in the car then it is placed were I discribed earlier. you can just dis conect it all together and use the exsisting wiring frome it to install your keyless entry.

On an 88 (Corvette), the security system is armed by locking the car with the power lock button on either door, then closing the door. System is disarmed when the key is used to unlock the door from the outside, thus preventing it from triggering when the door is opened. This of course assumes that it is all working correctly (switches, sensors, etc.)

AFAIK, manually locking the door(s) with the slide actuator will not arm the system. To test it try this:

1. Roll down window

2. Lock car with power lock button

3. Close door

4. Reach in and unlock door with slide actuator (not the power unlock button)

5. Open door

Now, the lights should flash and the horn burst on and off until the system is disarmed (must use the key in the outside cylinder turned towards the unlock position). I am pretty sure it the alarm will run continuously until disarmed, or until the battery dies. There may be a timeout period (10 minutes?) on later model cars, but I am not sure of the top of my head.

You can repeat the above test on both sides (driver and passenger) to make sure all switches and sensors in both doors are working correctly. There is also a tamper switch in the trunk lid that will sound the alarm if it it pried open while the system is armed.

Finally, on 89-91 cars, all the same applies except that the RKE remote will also arm/disarm the system when the lock or unlock buttons are pressed, respectively.

[Padgett]

88s did not have RKE (Remote Keyless Entry) Some years ago I determined that an 89-91 unit could be adapted to an 88 with some minor wiring changes but never got a round tuit.

Diagram shows RKE hooking up to S310 wiring under driver seat.Doesnt seem to exist in 88s.

[Reatta electrical guide]

Page 8A-132-13 discusses how the RKE sends signals to pins C8 and C9 for BCM and Terminal H of the theft disable module.

Possible part #

GM 25666345

16215349

From Corvette guys -- 88 model

VATS and UDTS (Universal Theft Deterrent System) are two completely independant systems on '86-'89. What you experienced is exactly what happens when the UDTS is not disarmed with the key in either door. Because VATS was working normally, it recognized your key and off you went, horn blaring. Your aftermarket alarm system should have been wired to send a ground to the Theft Deterrent Controller, pin H when you hit the fob and it unlocks the doors. If this worked before, but only just started not disarming the factory alarm, I'd be looking at the way the aftermarket system supplies the ground to the Theft Deterrent Controller. If it's through a relay, maybe the relay has failed. In the mean time, you just have to use the round key in either door to disarm the factory alarm.

Saturn RKE

IMPORTANT: On 1996 model year vehicles, Circuit 294 from RKE and security system module

may be affected, but will not cause an engine no crank condition.

? Circuit 294/TAN (driver's door unlock output from RKE and security system module) - Engine

will not crank and RKE and security system inoperative. A short to ground on this circuit may

cause internal damage to the RKE and security system module.

[KDirk]

Sean,

Looks like you have most of the details covered. My big stumbling block (and apparently yours too) was getting the UDTS to disarm when the unlock button on the RKE is pressed. As you correctly pointed out, as it is wired from the factory, the 88 models only disarm the alarm when unlocking either door with the key from the outside as the are not equipped for RKE as built.

So, either there is a special output the RKE sends to the UDTS module (likely the aforementioned green wire). Or, if not, then somehow the wire that is "sensing" the exterior lock cylinder going to the unlock position needs to be tapped and paralleled with a timed relay to generate an unlock "pulse" when the unlock on the RKE fob is pressed. I suspect this latter approach should not be needed as the means to do this correctly is already present in the UDTS module, and just the needed wiring is not implemented in 88 due to it not being equipped with RKE.

Anyway, my next biggest problem will be making up the harness to go from the RKE module to the respective module/splice locations. I have a pigtail with the main male side connector and a couple of feet of factory wiring, plus the complete coaxial antenna lead in, but will need to extend the main harness to hook everything up. Really, to do this right will necessitate pulling a least part of the interior [including carpet on drivers side] so the new wiring can be placed in the existing race along the floor pan for proper protection. I can't say I am looking forward to this project, but it needs to get done for the sake of convenience.

KDirk

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

You will find what you need in comparing the 89 FSM RKE and UA6 wiring diagrams to the 88 UA6 diagrams. Do not use the 90 or 91 as they are different.

You need to realize that the theft deterrent module has two circuits that need to be addressed. There is the system arm and cancel inputs (pins G and M) as well as a system disarm input (pin H)

The wiring for pins G and H is straight forward, but the RKE also uses its pins C8 and C9 to inhibit the signals to the UA6 Tamper and Disarm Inputs.

Take a look at the diagram on 89 FSM page 132-1 along with the one on 132-3.

Need to address both circuits to get it to work correctly.

[KDirk]

Mc-

Appreciate the guidance. I have an 89 FSM (actually have all 4 years in my "Reatta Reference Library") so cross ref'ing the schematics will be easy enough. As stated, the biggest impediment to my getting this done now is lack of time, and too many other projects (as usual).

KDirk

[SeanR]

Sorry to bother again. I have about 3 or 4 questions for now.

We previously touched on the stock module thing but didn't cover all the FCC details. Can someone please provide the ABO****R or ABO****T from their keyless entry receivers or transmitters (key fob)? I can then reverse guess what ABO module was installed in the Reattas.

Also, still looking for a pinout picture of the pigtail. I got a RKE module from Ebay but it has 14 total wires and a different part #. The seller sent me a different box than what was pictured. I was expecting a long square box made by United Technologies with opposite end pigtails. However, he sent me a Reatta form factor box but it's made by DELCO instead of U.T. It seems that around 1996 GM was transitioning between UT, Delco, and TRW. Even some Cadi's and Buicks had different modules for same model lines.

I just need to confirm if 14 is what Reatta has and if that's enough for the inputs and for managing the theft disarm features.

[padgett]

Cad is ABO0702T

[meehan]

Sean, I have 2 of these RKE boxes, with the connectors and long wires, I also have the antena that plugs into them. If interested please email me for price. I can have this out to you in the mail today if you like...Mary

PS I also have OEM and Cadillac remotes

Edited April 17, 2012 by meehan (see edit history)

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Since you have an 88, use wiring diagrams from the 89 FSM for connections.

Connector pin outs are shown on page 8A-202-30 of the 89 FSM.

It's a 32 pin connector. Two rows of 16 pins, only 14 are used though.

[SeanR]

This is all going into an 88. I'm just prepping my parts before trying to do surgery.

I purchased an ABO0302R receiver (long box, 3 pigtails), but the seller mistakingly sent me ABO1003R instead (small cube, similar Reatta form factor out of 92 Seville, 14 wire feed). Thank you for the 14 wire, 2 row info which is what this box has.

He is now sending me the one I originally wanted. I cannot find any compatible ABO1003T keyfobs anywhere whereas the ABO0302R has a wider variety of "T"ransmitters available. Confused yet?

I've installed the basic TRW RKE in a Fiero before but the theft module makes it slightly more complicated. This Fiero thread helps sort out the basics.

Stock-looking GM keyless Entry System? - Pennock's Fiero Forum

All I need to do is tap into the grounding switch feed from the door lock cylinder that connects to TERMINAL H of the theft module. When the RKE unlocks, it sends a DOOR JAMB pulse ground signal through C9 TERMINAL (light blue) and DOOR LOCK SWITCH via C3 TERMINAL which is also (light blue).

For illumination during disarm, I need to wire a trigger from RKE pinout C7 (grey wire) to the BCM at pinout 3C7. This will trigger BCM to send a ground to the lights to activate.

Please note this is a ROUGH DRAFT. So if you see any mistakes let me know. I guesstimated after reading each paragraph. Then I saw MC_Reattas great help in providing the diagram location. I was pretty much spot-on with the configuration. Sorry, but I lost the formatting and it's hard to follow here.

RKE PINOUT

Module Action

Module PIN Input

PIN C1 thick black TRUNK RELEASE TRUNK RELAY LOCATION TBD

PIN C2 thin black 2x transmit, PASSENGER Door UNLock Relay DOOR LOCK RELAY TBD

PIN C3 BLUE THEFT ARM POWER LOCK ALARM PULSE to TDM TERMINAL G TO SIMULATE PDL ARMING

PIN C4 EMPTY ================

PIN C5 EMPTY =============

PIN C6 EMPTY ============

PIN C7 GRAY ILLUMINATED ENTRY 5 PULSE SIGNAL TO BCM BCM PIN 3C7

PIN C8 GREEN THEFT DISARM ground SIGNAL TO TDM TERMINAL H TO SIMULATE UNLOCK DOOR w/ KEY

PIN C9 BLUE GROUNDING TAMPER INPUT WHILE ARMING TERMINAL J TO SIMULATE GRND DOOR OPEN/SECURITY FLASH

PIN C10 EMPTY ===============

PIN C11 BLACK w WHITE STRIPE GROUNDING TO PROGRAM REMOTES

PIN C12 EMPTY ===========

PIN C13 GREEN w BLACK STRIPE AUTO LOCK/UNLOCK TRANSAXLE INPUT PARK/TRANSAXLE INPUT TBD

PIN C14 PINK w BLACK STRIPE IGNITION RUN/ON/HOT + use 10a + FEED TO TERMINAL K RELAY INPUT OF TDM OR RELAY

PIN C15 EMPTY ========

PIN C16 TAN LH DOOR UNLOCK TO DOOR LOCK RELAY DOOR LOCK RELAY TBD

======================

PIN D1 ORANGE w BLACK STRIPE CONSTANT + POWER 20A fuse

PIN D2 ORANGE CONSTANT + POWER 20A fuse

PIN D15 BLACK GROUND

PIN D16 BLACK w WHITE STRIPE GROUND

ARM SEQUENCE:

STEP 1

PIN C3 BLUE POWER LOCK ALARM PULSE to TDM via door lock relay TERMINAL G TO SIMULATE PDL ARMING

step2

PIN C16 TAN GRND of LH DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK TO DOOR LOCK RELAY DOOR LOCK RELAY TBD

step 3

PIN C8 GREEN THEFT DISARM/ARM ground SIGNAL TO TDM TERMINAL H TO SIMULATE LOCK/UNLOCK DOOR w/ KEY

STEP 4

PIN C9 BLUE GROUNDING TAMPER INPUT WHILE ARMING TERMINAL J TO SIMULATE DOOR OPEN/SECURITY

STEP 5

DISARM SEQUENCE:

STEP 1

PIN C7 GRAY ILLUMINATED ENTRY 5 PULSE SIGNAL TO BCM BCM PIN 3C7

STEP 2

PIN C8 GREEN THEFT DISARM SIGNAL TO THEFT MODULE PIN H

STEP 3

PIN C16 TAN LH DOOR UNLOCK TO DOOR LOCK RELAY DOOR LOCK RELAY TBD

STEP 3.5

PIN C2 thin black 2x transmit, PASSENGER Door UNLock Relay + DOOR LOCK RELAY TBD

[SeanR]

Sean, I have 2 of these RKE boxes, with the connectors and long wires, I also have the antena that plugs into them. If interested please email me for price. I can have this out to you in the mail today if you like...Mary

PS I also have OEM and Cadillac remotes

Mary,

Do you have remotes with FCC ID's ABO1003T or ABO0302T ??

[wws944]

This is what the rear of an original Reatta remote says:

A number of folks here use similar year Cadillac remotes without problem.

[meehan]

Sean, I only have the Cadillac Remotes AB00702T

and the Buick Remotes FCC ID GLQ9Z6-1507

I use the Cadillac Remotes with my cars, like them better, buttons are bigger/nicer looking.

Let me know if your interested in either.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

I might interject a suggestion here for a modification I have on my to do list concerning the RKE since you are undertaking this project from scratch.

Our Reattas don't have any audible or visual confirmation that the key fob lock signal has been received by the RKE receiver other than the click of the door lock/unlock solenoids.

Since our remotes have a limited range compared to newer remotes, and our RKEs also don't have provisions to connect to the horn or headlight circuits (better foglights?), I keep planning to add a 12 v audio buzzer to the lock circuit so that it would sound off when a pulse is received by the RKE and sent to the door circuit. This would help in a noisy parking lot when walking away from the car and trying to lock the doors at the same time to make sure the message was received.

[Ronnie]

Sean, I hope you document the procedure needed to install everything and the parts that are needed. I would like to add RKE to my '88 as well a put a tutorial for doing it on my website to help others.

[DAVES89]

The only reason I have never considered the '88 Reatta was the RKE. I liked the idea of the remote glove box button on the '88, but knew that I had to have the RKE, as well as the other '88/89 features; Digital Dash, CRT and the Show.

So that made the '89 the only year for me...

Reason for "Daves89"

[SeanR]

This is what the rear of an original Reatta remote says:

A number of folks here use similar year Cadillac remotes without problem.

If you were attempting to post your FCC ABO* ID, it doesn't seem to have been pasted.

Edit: well that's odd, the pic didnt appear until after I made a comment. And it was doing this from two different laptops.

[SeanR]

Sean, I hope you document the procedure needed to install everything and the parts that are needed. I would like to add RKE to my '88 as well a put a tutorial for doing it on my website to help others.

Yes I will document this. I do MOPs for work so no big deal. And YES, I give you permission to copy my work and give tiny credit for it.

[SeanR]

I might interject a suggestion here for a modification I have on my to do list concerning the RKE since you are undertaking this project from scratch.

Our Reattas don't have any audible or visual confirmation that the key fob lock signal has been received by the RKE receiver other than the click of the door lock/unlock solenoids.

Since our remotes have a limited range compared to newer remotes, and our RKEs also don't have provisions to connect to the horn or headlight circuits (better foglights?), I keep planning to add a 12 v audio buzzer to the lock circuit so that it would sound off when a pulse is received by the RKE and sent to the door circuit. This would help in a noisy parking lot when walking away from the car and trying to lock the doors at the same time to make sure the message was received.

Good idea for a future mod. I search Acura forums and found KP Technologies module for $40. https://www.facebook.com/pages/KPtechnologies/298696380151926

KP Technologies

I think this Acura owners sums it up the best:

"That module consists of microcontroller based control brain that mounts on the inside of the vehicle. The brain controls the duration of the beeps, has a parking light output, and has an ignition input (to prevent beeping when the car is on). It's a little more complicated then just buying a beeper and the price reflects that!"

KP Technologies Electronic Beep Module - YouTube

Edited April 18, 2012 by SeanR (see edit history)

[SeanR]

Can someone indicate where the door lock relay(s) are as well as the trunk release relay? Hoping these are in the side panel of the passenger tunnel. Is the BCM behind the glove compartment?

[Ronnie]

Yes I will document this. I do MOPs for work so no big deal. And YES, I give you permission to copy my work and give tiny credit for it.

Thanks Sean. I look forward to it.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Can someone indicate where the door lock relay(s) are as well as the trunk release relay? Hoping these are in the side panel of the passenger tunnel. Is the BCM behind the glove compartment?

Door lock relay is under the left side shroud. (Left outside wall of driver's footwell)

Trunk release relay is in trunk on right side on the wheel well.

You can tap into splices in these circuits too. May be easier depending on where your planning to mount your RKE box.

[SeanR]

Cad is ABO0702T

Thank you for this info. I went to FCC website and cross-referenced. I also included GLQ9Z6-1507 which confirmed 319MHz too. Some of the early RKE modules used 319MHz transmitter frequency. By searching for FCC ID ABO and GLQ, searching for 319MHz only, I was able to narrow down cross compatible remotes to the following (short) list.

Sorry if this is repeat knowledge to some. But I have finally had an Ah-ha! moment as to why the first gen GM RKE's had the non-conforming FCC ID's.

319MHz Transmitters

GLQ9Z6-1507 (Reatta)

ABO0502T

ABO0702T

319 MHz Receivers

GLQ3B5-1508 (Reatta)

ABO1002R

ABO1003R

GM then standardized to 315MHz.

315 MHz

ABO0302R - transmit frequency 315

ABO0303R - transmit frequency 315

ABO0104R - transmit frequency 315

ABO0103T - transmit frequency 315