Machinist_Bill Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 According to my parts book the "Clum" switch was used up to car A514995. After that a Briggs & Stratton black faced switched was used up to car A701667 when it changed over to the white face. My Standard 6 volt '26 Coupe is in the A565,000 range and I have NO IDEA what the switch looks like, or how many positions, keyed or not keyed, etc.! There are no screw holes in the dash just a large hole to mount the switch. Can someone in the car range A515,000 to A700,000 post a photo of their switch? Front and back if it's not too much trouble..... :confused:Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 That's useful info. Bill. I obviously have the wrong switch because mine is a black faced Clum so I shall be on the lookout for a white one but presumably a Briggs and Stratton?. As to the fixing, I too would like to know more because mine is fitted with four self tappers which looks wrong to me. If I find the right one for my car, I will be able to offer you mine but if you are set on a Briggs then it probably won't do.My car is A791 - 370 Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texacola Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 My NE Electric parts book (printed 9/26) shows the clum switch being used thru ("to date",9/26). My '27 series (9/11/26 build) has what I believe to be the original clum switch.My Serial # is A 770-913. Now I suppose The NE catalog may be showing replacement switches for the earlier B motor which was the start of 6 volt and mine is a replacement?? In any case I would need more supporting docs before I got rid of the clum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machinist_Bill Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Now you know why I'm confused! My Northeast parts book says the same thing as yours did but my Dodge Brothers 9th edition says different. See the notes on the right side.....I have purchased every type of switch out there and the only one that fits correctly is the Briggs & Stratton. I will show photos later this week as I'm out on business for a day or two. I don't believe there is a "Right" or "Wrong" for the years 1926 & 1927 because I have found a LOT of variables....Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Only a suggestion, Bill, but if the Briggs one fits then my guess would be that's the right one. If it looks right, it probably is and possibly a better guide than going by the the book - but a puzzle all the same!Rather than change mine, perhaps paint it white?Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machinist_Bill Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 Only a suggestion, Bill, but if the Briggs one fits then my guess would be that's the right one. If it looks right, it probably is and possibly a better guide than going by the the book - but a puzzle all the same!Rather than change mine, perhaps paint it white?Ray.I am in total agreement with you Ray! To make matters worse my 1926 Sedan made one week earlier (12 Volt) has a completely different switch. I am posting photos of my dilemma. I wish I had better use of the Queens English but I have to blame my teachers......The first photo is the Coupe Switch hole that is 2-3/4" diameter with a notch at the top. Car number 565,000.The second photo is my 1926 Sedan switch. Car number 556,000.3rd photo shows the Briggs & Stratton switch that fits perfect but is probably 1927 because of the white face. It does not have a key!4th photo shows the back with the notch on top.5th photo shows what I think MIGHT be mine. A black faced Briggs & Stratton. It doesn't fit as well as the back is different.As stated on the other website, 1914 thru 1925 and 1928 thru today are straight forward on parts. It seems 1926 & 1927 was a mess! The production line employees at that time period were probably just as confused as I am.I also included a photo of the parts book that mentions Briggs & Stratton and Clum switches.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 (edited) Bill, your English grammar is not too shabby. Sad to say, but half the school leavers these days are pretty well illiterate.I don't know if it is of any help but you can see that the switch on my car is different again. Sorry, but I do not have a photo of the back of the switch yet. The white faced switch that fits so well in your Coupe is a nice looking item - if the other instruments were also white faced then it would probably look quite nice. The black faced switch and ammeter are probably not the right ones for my car.Just for fun, what is wrong in this photo? And no, the steering wheel is not on the wrong side! (We have lots of cars like that over here; it just makes it easier to drive on the wrong side of the road!)Ray Edited March 31, 2012 by R.White (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 photo of 1926 D.B. touring car dashboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyAus Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 RayI notice that the rubber bases on your windscreen posts are pretty crappy - as most are at that age. Spectrum Rubber in Sydney ( www.spectrumrubber.com.au ) do a pretty fair reproduction. I have a pair on my car.RegardsTony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Thanks for that info. Tony. I clicked on the link and found exactly what I need. That is a brilliant resource! When you look at the lower corners of the screen, you will see big gaps between the rubber and the body. Is the screen seal wrong or is there a seperate corner seal? I would have thought the scuttle and screen frame would have been a closer fit ? but perhaps not. Another problem is that there is a 1/2" gap between the upper and lower glass. This cannot be right and I can only imagine that a poor repair has been made in the past. What I really need to know is what it should look like so that I can put it right. Does the lower glass need to follow an upward line at the corners so that it can be overlapped by the upper glass? At the moment, there is nothing to stop rain from pouring in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyAus Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 RayThe windscreen sashes have slots around their edges which take T rubber strips - about 1/2" wide at the sides and 2" wide at the bottom. Feed the strips in via holes at the end of each slot.The upper and lower sash should have about a 1/4" gap which is filled with a lower case h shaped rubber strip. The strip is fitted from the inside with the legs of the h over the top of the lower sash so each sash can open out.Perhaps your glass has been cut a bit short or the insert rubber is too thin. When the end caps are removed the glass should be flush with each end. Spectrum have both the correct thickness insert rubber (U section to take 1/4" glass) and the forementioned h section.Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Tony,thankyou for your detailed explanation. I am sure I will eventually get the screen sorted. Is there any chance of a photo, so that I can see what a correct set-up looks like? Some other views of my car. Still a few more jobs to do!.Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machinist_Bill Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 Very nice Ray! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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