Guest Industrialdeere Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Hi folks. My rear wheels won't come off. We have tried everything we know. We created a pulling tool, cranked down hard on it, applied heat, hammered away at it and nothing gives. The brake cylinders need some work or I wouldn't mess with it. I have wagon wheels on a 1926 Stutz speedster. Any advice?Is there a tool that works?How do we pull the wheel without damaging the spokes?As always I am grateful for the help.Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STuTZ693 Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Hi Steve,Where are you located on NY. We have a few STuTZ Club members in NY that may be able to help. I have a 1925 STuTZ which has a totally different rear axle set-up.What model STuTZ do you have?There is also a member in Ohio that has a 1926 AA and he has had every part of the STuTZ apart over the last 40 years.You can sent me a PM if you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Industrialdeere Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 I live in Huntington Long Island, about in the middle of the Island. My Stutz is a Speedster, AA, 1926. Any help from anyone would be appreciated.Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STuTZ693 Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Steve,The STuTZ Club member in Ohio has the following comments to your problem.The rear wheels come off after removing the hub caps which must be unlocked with the Buffalo wheel wheel wrench . The right side has regular threads and the left side have left hand threads . I suspect he has the wheel wrench and knows how to use it . Once the hub cap is off the wheel usually falls off. If the wheel is rusted (stuck) You can lower the stuck wheel to the ground and move the car side to side to free the wheel, do not remove the jack from under the axel so the car is always supported. If the wheel is off and he is removing the brake drum turn the adjuster to free the brake ,remove the cotter pin and the axel nut should be unscrewed a few threads to allow some movement , place the puller on the center part of the drum and tighten the center bolt of the puller.You would find becoming a member of the STuTZ Club helpful in your project. You can go to thestutzclub.org for information on joining the club.Hope the above information helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Industrialdeere Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Thanks so much for your help. I will try it this weekend. In the meantime I destroyed my puller in the process. Does anyone know where I can purchase a puller? Thanks for all your help. Yes I am a member of the Stutz club. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stutzl6 Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Hi The information from sidan is for a wire wheel You have wood wheels I have to look at a rear end with wood JOHN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pughs Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 You will need the kind of wheel puller that screws onto the rear axle after the nut is removed. The wheel puller is then hit with a large hammer and the wheel should pop free.Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Industrialdeere Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 I guess we have to tell my wheel that. :-) She refused to budge when I did exactly that. Subborn cuss.Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pughs Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hit it harder! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Layden B Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Before you "hit it harder" and ruin the bearings try this. Back off the axle nut until you see a gap between it and the hub. Replace the cotter pin so the nut is again captive and go for a short ride in the car and be sure to make some hard corners on a paved road. Frequently this will loosen the hub on the axle taper. If not, you will certainly need a puller that screws on the hubcap threads. You may have to have one made. If so be sure it has a pinch bolt to make the threads grip tight on the hubcap threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark66A Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Contact this guy: Custom Made Wheel Pullers for any make Antique Car. $140.00+shippingGeorge McMurtry² #4573 Box 112 Bayard, NE 69334 308-586-1930gmcmurtry@embarqmail.com George made one for me for my Stearns-Knight and it works great. He is a member of the Willys Overland Knight RegistryMark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Oldcartech Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 It is sometimes very hard to see, and can be tricky but there is a fine round center ring in the middle of the hub. The wrench goes around the hub with a T shaped center on a lever that fits into the center of the hub and lifts the round serrated looking center up and out just about 3/16 of an inch. Once that happens the cap is in the unlock position and you can turn the wheel cap left or right with the wrench depending on which side of the car it’s on, for direction. It can sometimes require a little friendly persuasion with some heat and liquid bolt loosened. Take your time, be extra patient and think it out. You finally get it. Be cautious and not hurt the center or the locking system. Once you get it all apart, clean the hub and lightly oil it up like you would a fine gun or watch. It also for time to time becomes necessary to use a very fine file to the serrated edges of the center ring. I sure hope I explained that right. It sounds good in my head but in someone else’s it could be kind of confusing. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Layden B Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Rick,Aren't you describing how to remove the hubcap from wire wheels?Didn't Industrialdeere say he has "wagon wheels" which we have established to be wooden wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Industrialdeere Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Great News!!!!! They are off!!!! I owe it all to Custom Made Wheel Pullers for any make Antique Car. $140.00+shippingGeorge McMurtry² #4573 Box 112 Bayard, NE 69334 308-586-1930gmcmurtry@embarqmail.com George made one for me and it worked great!!!!!He is one terrific guy. He knows his stuff. But here is the true story of a real gentleman. I measured wrong the first time out. George made me up a new one within a couple of days. He was able to send the first one off to another desperate guy and sent me my new one at no charge. It worked like a dream. Thank you George. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Industrialdeere Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I just need to say this one more time. George McMurtry is the kind of guy that puts a smile on my face. Thanks George!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DNC Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Yes, this is as good as it gets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Oldcartech Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Oops! I apologize. I was under the false impression you were talking about wire wheels. My reply post above was only meant for wire wheels. There are specially puller for the others as well and I see he got them free with one. Thanks Layden for correcting me. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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