Guest SupRiv56R Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 I need to replace the hoses to the heater core on my '57 Super. (I can hear the groans out there!) Has anyone here been able to do this without removing the fender? They are buried so far back into the fender that I can barely reach them, never mind trying to get a tool on them to loosen the clamps. I have a wide selection of tools at my disposal and have tried most of them, both normal and odd-ball (screwdrivers, offset wrenches, etc.). But I don't have everything, so if anyone can pass along any tips or suggestions, especially for a tool that would work, I would be most greatful. I've had both my sons and their Grandfather try to get a hand or tool on those connections without success and we all have long arms. (Grandpa owns a 1956 Mark II and still does almost all of this own wrenching.) For various reasons, removing the fender really is not an option or at least one of last resort.Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 You may be able to get under the car to remove them, but you will have to remove the inner rear fender well to access them. It is held in place under the fender with 5 or six bolts along the inside as well as 2 bolts with plates at the rear and one star-washer bolt at the fender. Once that is removed, you should have access to the heater hoses, but it is very tight quarters to get in there. Just take your time and work slowly. Also, drain your radiator, if you haven't. It will get most of the fluid out, but when you take the hoses off the heater core, remove the lower ones first and have a bucket handy to catch all the fluid from the core. Make sure you are not directly under the core connections when you do that or you will get a anti-freeze shower! Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 The 57 heater appears to be similar to my 55. I found it is easier to remove the heater box (attaching bolts are inside) with the hoses attached. Of course the 55 has large holes in the fender (after removing some portholes) to work through. When you do finally get it out throw away those &^%$ tower top or any other original clamp and use worm modern worm clamps oriented so that you can access with extended tools from the bottom.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caballero2 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Here is another thread that discusses te problem in more detail.http://forums.aaca.org/f120/1957-buick-heater-core-removal-question-286203.html Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SupRiv56R Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Thanks to all for the quick replies and suggestions. I checked the fender linerbolts and they are all in good looking shape, so I'll try that route. Getting a tool on either clamp has foiled me so far, but with the tire and liner removed I should have enough room to get at the clamps. I'll report back here how I made out.--Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 "in '57... Buick provide[d] a hole through the front fenders, only behind the rear-most Venti-Port [for] access to the [heater core] without removing the lower fenderwell section... [however] you have to have hands and arms like an elf's"May Dobby please help Master Chris, please sir Master Chris? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Thanks to all for the quick replies and suggestions. I checked the fender linerbolts and they are all in good looking shape, so I'll try that route. Getting a tool on either clamp has foiled me so far, but with the tire and liner removed I should have enough room to get at the clamps. I'll report back here how I made out.--Chris If you can remove the duct, then maybe you can get a tin snips on the band of the old clamps and cut em off. I would try to cut the hose off as close to the end of the core nipples as possible with a sharp razor knife and then try to snip the bands of the old clamps. I would then follow Willies advice about using new clamps and not the tower type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SupRiv56R Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 No luck. Format is jpeg and file sizes are all around 3,000kb so they should work, but I keep getting an upload error. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 SupRiv..you will need to downsize the picture to less than 1MB (1000kb) to be able to post it on the site. Go to your photo editor and select the picture and then go to resize picture. You should be able to resize it to a large document size, which should be around 1MB. Save the picture and then you will be able to post it. Hopefully that works for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SupRiv56R Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Will do. Sorry about posting in the wrong thread. That's what happens to you when you mess with vintage Delco headlight switches: leaves you a little "numb". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SupRiv56R Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Thought I'd check back with a status report...With the goal of trying to do this job without removing either the fender or liner, I went out early this morning (9:00 AM) to continue work on this job. Using a combinaton of screwdrivers, my Leatherman Wave multi-tool and single edge razor blade AND help from my 16 year old son, we were able toremove the two hose [connections] and clamps from the upper nipple and the middle nipple without (thank goodness) breaking them off the core. The single edge blade was essential for cutting away the hose until all that was left was the remainder under the clamp. This mid-one just behind and slightly above the blower hose was an absolute nightmare. Using the combination of tools mentioned above on the screw, I'd say we were lucky to get 1/10 of a turn at a time, before switching or re-gripping to get a better bite on the slot. The clamp must be opened very wide in to clear the projection on the core nipple, especially since I could not remove the hose remnants from behind the clamp bands. I was very lucky that the clamp was in good shape (no rust, even on the threads) and only a little undercoating spray on the threads.One last question someone might be able to answer: The only hose left is the short one on the very bottom which loops from a connector just below the mid one I removed to another nipple at the very bottom of the heater box. Can anyone confirm what this hose does? Ranco valve bypass perhaps? I never even noticed before today until I removed the mid hose and saw another dreaded clamp staring back at me! I can already see that the upper clamp on this "loop" hose is pointing straight up, so there is NO WAY I will be able to get a screwdriver on it with either removing the fragile blower hose or removing the inner fender liner. :mad: I'll leave that one for another day as I'm starting to feel like that old saying: "An old man trying to play a young man's game!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SupRiv56R Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Well, I think I figured it out: The "mid" pipe connector behind the blower hose is the inlet for the Ranco valve. The connector below this (below the blower hose and virually invisible from above) is the Ranco valve outlet with the "loop hose" to the bottom of the heater core (inlet). The top connector (within the fender behind or almost directly opposite the #3 porthole is the core outlet.It is interesting to note that [as fas as I can tell] there are no pictures of the core, core housing, the Ranco valve itself or the hoses and their connections and routing layout anywhere in the shop manuals. I have what I believe is the complete set of 1957 Buick shop manuals but can find no pictures or narrative anywhere with this info in any of the following: Product School ManualChassis Service ManualBody Service ManualProduct Service BulletinsService Policy Adminstration Manual1958 Wholesale Parts GuideIf anyone knows if the info is in the books somewhere and I'm just oblivious [see previous post re: "Old man trying to play a youngs man's game"] please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caballero2 Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 You are right, attached photo might help.Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SupRiv56R Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Thanks Dan. Your car is beautiful, even without the front clip! When they were writing the manuals they probably figured there would be plenty of cars for the mechanic to compare it to if you forgot how the hoses were routed, so why include details or pictures in the books.All that's left for me to remove now is the hose from the valve outlet to the lower core inlet. I can't see the clamp on the valve outlet from above: it's behind the fabric blower hose and hidden from view. The hose is in "54 year-old condition" so I don't want to mess with it. Attempting to remove it would likely destroy it. I can see it from below though, and the @!*$ clamp screw is facing up. This means that even with the inner fender liner removed, it will be a giant pain to replace; on par with the one I just removed. I didn't give the other clamp a real close look, but both the clamp and the hose are heavily covered with undercoating anyway. I have a temporary work-around with a hose from the water manifold direct to the lower radiator connection so I can still drive it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SupRiv56R Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 In looking at your picture again Dan, I realized that the heater core appears different on your air conditioned car. On my non-ac car, the upper connection appears to be in the same place as yours, but the lower connector is on the inboard side of the external housing box. The inlet connector to the Ranco valve is a bit right of center (facing the windshield) and about halfway down the box itself behind the blower hose. Is the plastic air plenum shown in your picture a stock item? I'm assuming it is, but just wondering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 SupRiv56..maybe this picture will help. It is a standard heater set up with the hose connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caballero2 Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 In looking at your picture again Dan, I realized that the heater core appears different on your air conditioned car. On my non-ac car, the upper connection appears to be in the same place as yours, but the lower connector is on the inboard side of the external housing box. The inlet connector to the Ranco valve is a bit right of center (facing the windshield) and about halfway down the box itself behind the blower hose. Is the plastic air plenum shown in your picture a stock item? I'm assuming it is, but just wondering.The plastic duct is an A/C only feature. I do not know why GM would not do this with a similiar duct throughout all models.Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SupRiv56R Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Thanks Jim and Dan. The picture of Jim's housing is like mine and after taking another look under my car I can see that the bottom core connector is like yours Dan. I should have the new hoses to the radiator and manifold installed in a few days, and I'll leave the lower for another day when my tortured elbow and shoulder joints, and cramped fingers and knuckles recover. Would either of you know the correct diameter hose Buick used?--Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caballero2 Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 I will measure mine tomorrow if no one else answers you before. I have a couple heater cores in archives.Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Chris, 3/4 inch diameter hose is what you need for replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SupRiv56R Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 I really appreciate the help. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Chris if you can do it I would remove the duct. This can be replaced if it is torn. It would give you a lot more room to get the new hoses back on with as you need twist room to put the hoses on and not just pulling room. Just some thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SupRiv56R Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Thanks David. I agree with you. It's probably inevitable that the cloth duct will have to removed to complete the job of replacing that last hose. I have already tried to judge its "removability" by applying a surgeon's touch to it to see if it might move enough so I could work it loose: NOT! So...I'll leave that one for another day and will remember to post back here with my progress and [hopefully] a report on the successful conclusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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