SLP5357 Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Hi forum guys - just wanted to touch base regarding my ongoing project. I was able to get my old nailhead started after 35 years of silence. I took every precaution including removing the plugs and soaking the cylinders with PB Blaster and turning the crank by hand for several days before cranking with the starter for a few days as well. After checking the compression and verifying that the oil pump was pumping oil as far north as the rocker shafts, I replaced all tune-up parts, changed the oil and filter, held my breath and cranked. With just a little coaxing, she fired up and within a few minutes, sounded just as healthy as the last time she ran - 35 years ago. I still have a few things to clear up before I proceed with the restoration (I wanted to get it running before I lifted the body off): I'm hoping someone might have a little info regarding the vacuum advance on a 364. I think mine may have a deteriorated diaphragm, but I'm not sure. I don't remember how the advance functions, ie does the manifold vacuum pull the advance on or does it release it? It seems like the plate in the distributor is rotated clockwise as I can't get an allen wrench in to adjust the points. Also, I only keep the engine running for a few minutes at a time. After I shut it down, I can hear coolant bubbling in the block. My best guess is that over the years, the coolant turned to sludge and may be plugging up the passages in the block. Anybody have any input on these issues - fire away. All opinions are welcome... Thanks! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 35 years?! You got me beat by a couple of decades. I don't know what antifreeze does after that long but I'm guessing you've got air trapped in the cooling system. What you're hearing may not be boiling coolant but rather it splooshing around through the cavities, activated by convection. Give it a good flushing out and then top it up slowly, with the engine running and warmed up, to ensure the thermostat is opening. May as well install a new thermostat, too, while you're in there. Welcome back to the shop! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Did you replace the thermostat? That's my guess, the old thermostat is stuck.Thermostat and water pump. Those were always the first thing I had to replace on long dormant engines....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLP5357 Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 Thanks guys - this weekend I think I'll take off the water pump and thermostat housing and flush the heck out of the block, I did notice that there was no movement at all with the coolant in the radiator so there has to be something plugged up. I have another issue I'm dealing with regarding the cooling system - I'm hoping someone has a photo of the back end of the block on a 1957 364. I'm missing the temperature sensor and tube that goes into the temperature gauge in the dash and I have no idea what these parts even look like. If anyone has a photo of that area of the block, please forward to my email - empro7@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 SLP: Here is a link to what we did in properly flushing out the nailhead block and system:http://forums.aaca.org/f120/how-i-flushed-out-my-buick-299331.htmlHope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 STEVE, you're right - someone with their engine out of the car needs to show you how this fitting fits. I just went out to look at mine, installed, and there's no way to get a photo of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 BUICK MAN, thanks for this fresh reference, over on AACA - General Discussion, to another fundamental for the growing 1957 (and other) Buick Encyclopedia.It's no wonder that you never want to leave the Hotel, beyond the debatable attraction of perpetual youth. At your disposal, you have endless shop supplies that include:- foundation de-watering equipment- a lobster boiler burner- "a degree in Chemistry and Biology"Most of us, of course, will prefer instead to just haul the old beauty over to a rad shop for much the same treatment. Still, it's inspiring to hear from irrepressible do-it-your-selfers like yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Steve, here are some early shots for when I had my engine out. The temperature gauge comes through the firewall and has the spiral wire winding on it. It has a brass bulb on the end with a threaded portion / hex nut top. It screws in the block at the back of the engine on the left side rear by the distributor. Hope these help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 JIM, this looks very familiar. I might have a spare temperature gauge, complete with coil-guarded tubing and brass probe.STEVE, you're welcome to it, if I can find it. Will let you know. My usual price: you'll send the price of postage to your favourite charity. You even get to keep the tax receipt - unless you're Canadian, then I'll want it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 No Jim you have that all wrong. That spiral wire is the trunk opening vacuum sensor tube and the yellow wire goes to the cruise control module. Yet another 57 Buick original.Rob: Apparently you must be feeling the effects of being snow bound and have no doubt read and reread all of your back logged collection of reader digests and T.V. Guides. The mounties claim they should be there by at least March so have faith. Most radiator shops have their guys drink a lot of beer and then wait and watch as you leave and go around the corner. Then they do very little after that to actually open your block up properly. I have collected most of my shop supplies from misguided cooking shows gone awry. My Degree was only the manifestation of an acutely misguided youth of lost potential.I now lament within that hotel room. Watching through hazed window panes the neon sign caressing bare walls until the dinner bell chimes. I go down to meet the others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caballero2 Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 buick man:You see, 1957buickjim is a purist, so am I. So here is a couple more photos. I even have an original engine (grease and crud included) and will photograph it if needed.Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 buick man:You see, 1957buickjim is a purist, so am I. So here is a couple more photos. I even have an original engine (grease and crud included) and will photograph it if needed.DanOK smarty pants. So just where does the oil sending unit attach to the engine from the gauge cluster? Yeah, and just try and answer that one. .... and where did he get that NOS ground cable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Steve, here are some early shots for when I had my engine out. The temperature gauge comes through the firewall and has the spiral wire winding on it. It has a brass bulb on the end with a threaded portion / hex nut top. It screws in the block at the back of the engine on the left side rear by the distributor. Hope these help.So what, now I am confused. You went and took your engine back out again and the fenders off, again, AFTER you painted your car ?? ..... and what is that smudge doing on the corner of the valve cover. Get on it Jim! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caballero2 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 (edited) Buick Man:The attached photo will show where the oil line from the pressure guage attaches to the engine. Also the wiper motor vacuum source.Oh, by the way, I have a good radiator P/N 3138904. I think that you were looking for one. I plan to get it down and photograph it if you are interested. The tanks to need some repair.DanP.S. The ground cable came from Danchuk the Chebby Stuff Man. Edited February 28, 2012 by Caballero2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Back in 1989 I took the car from a pile of parts to a semi restored ride. At that time, I took the engine out, which is the first photograph. Put 'er back in after re gasketing the engine, and the rest is history...at least for another 21 years. When I started the frame-on approach, I no longer had access to the engine lift or stand, and I really didn't want to take the engine out (no reason) so..left it in and restored around it! The smudge was no match for the power washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLP5357 Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Hey thanks a ton guys - these pictures were a big help. I found a brass plug in the back end of the left head. I also found what was left of the tube sticking out of the firewall. Rob - keep me posted on that temperature sensor you may have, I'm definitely interested... Thanks again for all the help! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now