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ABS code 31 stays on after new sensor


Guest 69judge

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Guest 69judge

Working on my 90 Reatta,the ABS light was on for weeks continous,red brake never came on.EBCM code 31 showed,ran the test in the Reatta manaul used my J-35592 pin out box to test the circuits and sensor, showed no reading from the left front sensor.Spun the wheel no reading.Ordered a new Standard sensor from Rock Auto,and installed it. Started the car and the yellow ABS light was out,thought I had it fixed but soon as the car hits 20 mph the light comes on,and stays on until you shut the car off, and restart it. Checked the EBCM codes,and 31 still on. Tested the sensor, shows 680 Ohms,tested all four sensors 678 to 680 Ohms,should read 800 to1400. My meter must be off.I also bought a new accumulator from Amazon,old one was bad.Tested the ABS while driving, doesn't work at any speed, even though the light is off from 0 to 20 mph.Brakes work great,just not ABS.Any ideas what's wrong?Thanks Daryl

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Sounds like the new sensor you replaced isn't working correctly or you have a second bad sensor.

I would check each wheel doing the spin test to see if you get a small AC voltage generated at each wheel. This will point out any bad sensors / reluctor gear, broken wires etc. Static resistance test doesn't guarantee that the sensor is working correctly, just wires are OK.

I suggest jacking up the front end and do both wheels. Usually problem sensors are the front ones. Don't even have to remove the wheels. Quicker than pulling wheels and doing a visual check of the wire insulation and much more revealing.

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Guest 69judge

Just got done running the test for AC voltage output from the wheel sensors.Mc_Reatta you were right,the Standard sensor was right on the ohms reading,but wouldn't produce any voltage at all (0 ). The EBCM must read the ohms when the car is started,then read the AC voltage when the car going fast enough to produce it.That's why the ABS light is off when you first start the car,and comes on latter.I'm getting a sensor from John Finn.I hope that fixes the ABS code 31 problem.Is there anything else that would prevent the new sensor from working.I cleaned the reluctor gear,all the teeth were good.Thanks for the help. Daryl

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Guest Mc_Reatta

I have a sneaking suspicion that the orientation of the sensor field magnets and pick up coils are the main differences between the sensors used in all the cars that have a Teves system. I think the manufacturer is either trying to use the same sensor over multiple cars or just misidentifying what car the sensor was made for, and it's not aligning correctly to the reluctor gear when the sensor is held in place by the retaining bolt in the lobe.

Hard to believe that they could screw up such a simple sensor any other way.

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Guest 69judge

I tested the sensor right off the pigtail of the sensor,the ohms read 1000,ac voltage 0.By running the test listed in the Reatta manual I'm sure of the sensor and Ebcm are lined up right, as far as right and left,front and rear.I tested each sensor,by spinning the wheel to get AC voltage,the other three are all the same reading.Jim Finn has a tested sensor that I will try,I'll let you know if that does it or not. Thanks for help...Daryl

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I have learned this regarding GM and the Reatta. When one uses the pinout box the readings are correct ie; left is left when sitting in the drivers seat. When one uses the ALDL box for codes the readings are opposite ie; facing the car from the front the passenger side is the left side.

I have purchased a brand new sensor lead [from Advance] and when I went to install it, it also did not work [no ohms reading at all]. It is now in Padgetts possesion for him to make whatever he wants from it. I prefer used units as they have been "road tested."

Going forward I will also tip my hat to Padgett, when the car starts and the light is out but comes on when driving between 14-20 miles per hour it will be a sensor lead. One just has to figure out front or back, right or left.

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BTW there is also a Cad Teves sensor that is slightly longer and will contact the teeth unless shimmed. Clearance on the front (yes Virginia, you can measure the front) should be .020" and the teeth should be clean.

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Padgett did you try that sensor with a shim? Does it work?

Also did you try repairing the new one {from Advance} that I sent you? Does that one now work?

I had enough guys on the forum help me out with sensor leads so I don't want them back, I am just curious.

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Guest 69judge

Padgett, I did take the sensor out Saturday to check if it was rubbing,no sign.Do you think a washer would be worth a try anyway? Daryl

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If not rubbing it is probably the right one.

except it doesn't work.

On a previous post I stated that the one I bought new didn't work either, but because I was "saving" it I exceeded the warranty w/o testing it. Hence the reason why I like buying "road tested" sensor leads.

I have replaced all 4 sensor leads on both my cars and have 4 front and 8 rear leads in back up inventory. I wouldn't sell my extra front leads at any price [Jim is at $70.00 each for fronts]. You can still buy the rears readily as other G M cars used them [Caddy, Olds, Buick].

I used this as an idea before for headlight switches. Go to www.car-part.com and look up hub assemblies. Ask the guy if he will take out the leads and sell them to you. I did this and got 8 leads at $25.00 each from one yard. 3 were front and 5 were rear. And they all tested out good and the rubber was excellant. seeing as how a front lead sells for $120.00 new [if you can find them] I think I did good.

If you [or anyone else] is going to try this, do not call the yards on Monday mornings. They are too busy with "real" customers and will blow you off. Better to try mid. aft on a Tuesday or Wednesday when they are not too busy. It will be a crap shoot as you will get what they send you, bad rubber on the leads, aluminum caps missing etc...

Edited by DAVES89 (see edit history)
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Guest 69judge

I received a used ABS wheel sensor from Jim Finn today,put it in tested the voltage output by spinning the wheel, and it read the same as the other three.Drove the car to the store and back no ABS light on and the ABS works great on Minnesota ice.Rockauto said to return the part,which their out of stock of ,so their refunding the $160.I would of rather received a another part just to test and keep for a spare if it was good.I want to thank all of you for your ideas and help. Daryl

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