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41Roadmaster

Anderson Pearson, My 1941-76C Buick Roadmaster

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Does anyone remember a BCA member with the last name "Hetzel"?

His name is etched on the back of almost every chromed piece of my 1941-76C. So far, I've only been able to trace ownership back to the early 1990's and his name hasn't come up yet. He obviously spent some money because almost all of the chrome still looks great.

Just trying to piece together the history. Any leads would be appreciated.

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Here are a few shots showing progress on the body. It seemed to take forever to get to this point, but its starting to take shape again!

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Looking good. It's nice to see the car all one colour again, even it is primer!

Keith

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Anderson,

Looking good. It's nice to see a fellow "convertible restorer" hard at it. Can't wait to see some paint threwn about! Matt

Matt & Keith,

Thanks for the words of encouragement guys! But right now, George McNeil and Bob Wagoner under the watchful eye of Lewis Jenkins are the ones "hard at it." I wish could do more of the work myself (heck, I wish I could do it ALL!), but my time, space and talent are limited. But I'll be sure to pass along your sentiments :o

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...but I now have winders!

My window winders aren't too bad, but they could use some attention. They really need to be sent to a refinisher to have the dents and pits removed and then replated ($$$), or I needed to find some in better condition ($$). The resin knobs are cracked and some are starting to crumble (the best one is pictured.) I've kept an eye out for original replacements but these buggers are hard to find!

So I decided that I will use reproductions until I can find suitable originals or restore mine. I purchased a set of reproduction winders from Bob's and they look pretty close to original, although the sides have chamfered angles versus the rounded originals. Unfortunately, Bob's winders only come with chrome knobs, not the resin knobs I need. So I bought a set of reproduction resin knobs from Skip Boyer (by the way, thanks Skip!)

I cut out the chrome knobs, and installed the repro resin knobs using a two part epoxy (to hold the center-set a machine screw) and finished them off with screw sleeves from my local hardware store. Voila!

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Neat solution, Anderson. I have the same kind issue with my '41 coupe, but mine is Canadian (ie. McLaughlin Buick) production, and they use a square fitting on the shaft, instead of the spline type that the US cars use, and right now I've got a mis-mash of winders handles..

Keith

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Hey thanks Keith. If you have time to send a quick photo I'd like to see how the McLaughlin winders/knobs differ.

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Here are a couple pictures of my window riser handles.

Keith[ATTACH=CONFIG]145485[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]145486[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]145487[/ATTACH]

Wow, that is different! Very cool. Thanks for sharing.

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I of course, found out the difference the hard way, by buying some US ones, then finding out that they won't fit!

Keith

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Finally some paint...:)

Painted the jambs and interior sides in one batch, then will paint the exterior sides all in another run. Trying not to have any "side-by-side" batching issues.

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I didn't realize I had two different sized winder escutcheons (thanks to Grandpa, here on the forum, for pointing it out!)

It seems the longer window winders have a taller escutcheon, presumably to keep the end of the winder off of the door panel. Luckily, I have both of mine, but one is pretty beat up. $ounds like another item for refini$hing...ugg.

The first "side-by-side" photo is one I found on Bill Anderson's website. If you guys haven't visited the site, it's well worth it:

Anderson Automotive Enterprises

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Both my dash panels and instrument gauges needed some attention. I sent the dash panels to Doug Seybold for fresh engine-turning, and then opened up my gauges to see how they were put together and what could be cleaned and what needed to be replaced.

After a good Q-tip cleaning, the resin on all the gauges still showed alot of discoloration. The copper had some dark spots, and the off-white paint on the back side of the glass had dried, cracked and popped out of the recesses.

I decided to replace with NOS for temp, fuel & oil (paid dearly for them, but they are MUCH better.) I gently cleaned the copper with brasso and it finished up nicely. I then popped out all of the off-white paint from the glass and re-painted (I found that Testers model paint #1117 Light Ivory is a near perfect match!) I did all this in the living room on the coffee table...needless to say my wife is glad that little project is over.

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Here are a few shots of the painting so far. Mostly still wet sanding at this point, but now I can finally begin to see the car as one color again. I'm very pleased with the Lancaster Grey.

I've seen some owners change out the body plate so that their cars appear like they were always their color. But I decided to leave a "paper trail" of sorts for any future owners as to the original "Royal Maroon" color. If I ever decide to show it, I guess I'll have to take the hit. Oh, well...

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Anderson,

I am surprised that they painted with rear fenders on? I know that the fender welt goes in between, but might it cause an issue with possible chipping of paint? Or are they just going to loosen the bolts and slip the welt in? Looks great. I am learning ins and outs for my paint.........Matt

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Hi Matt,

No, they just loosely installed the fenders at my request, so I could get a better idea of the finished result. They took them off after I took my photos. I learned that Jenkins actually makes their own fender welting. It is alot thinner than most you can buy, and more correct to the car. Small details like that is why I'm glad to have some experienced help.

You're right though, it wouldn't provide a good paint result if the fenders were left on ; ) When I was younger I had a beater 1949 Dodge Wayfarer business coupe, and decided to put an inexpensive paint job on it. Just about everything was left on it...fenders, doors, glass, etc...and of course, it all started peeling within a year or so. Lesson learned on that one.

Anderson,

I am surprised that they painted with rear fenders on? I know that the fender welt goes in between, but might it cause an issue with possible chipping of paint? Or are they just going to loosen the bolts and slip the welt in? Looks great. I am learning ins and outs for my paint.........Matt

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Looking very very nice, so far. Its' really nice to see one colour again after all the primer, etc.

Keith

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Looking good, Anderson. In BCA judging you will NOT take a hit on having the paint on the car not match that of the Body Plate. As long as the paint on the car is one that was available for 1941 Buicks, no non-authenticity deduction will be made. You're in good shape there!

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Hey, thanks Dave, I had no idea. I just really love that Lancaster Grey, so I figured what the heck. All the better now that I know.

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