Guest dstaton Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Starfire Mafia,Some questions have arisen in correcting my cooling system. I have had some difficulty in locating a correct fan clutch for my 1962 with A/C, which I assume would have a shorter shaft. I found an original from a 98 but it seems too long between the blades and the clutch, setting it too close to the radiator. Can someone help me with the GM or ACDelco part number for my eBay search? My temporary accommodation is to run the more common 4 blade fixed fan, which led me to wonder about its efficacy. I live in Tucson where the critical affect is our 110º heat running the A/C with the top up. Alternately, it gets down to freezing often enough to need the heater on the way to work. Equinoxes and winter afternoons call for topless cruising.Can anyone help me figure understand the effect of the clutchless fan in such a climate? As I understand its operation, I will lose some hp occasionally, but only in the winter.Slightly related question: Are the temperature parameters of the cold/hot dash lights through the temperature sending unit specified? And finally, I have decided to run a 185º thermostat. Any comments on this array with or without the clutched fan would be much appreciated.Thanks,Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlh61olds Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 IMHO The 185 is too high. The original routine was 160 in summer and 172 or 180 in winter.In your case if it were me I would use the 160 - 180 set up. If you don't want to be bothered changing the stat twice a year (Which was done regularly) try the 172 for year round.The 185 is too high for summer use.Good luck, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starfireelvis Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 You will definitely need a six-blade fan; as for the fan clutch, Fusick's should be able to get you the proper one (they've done so for me). I also concur with the thermostat recommendation above.I remember reading in the shop manual or one of the bulletins that the green "cold" light goes out when the coolant temperature reaches 143 degrees; trying to remember the exact temp for the "hot" light to come on; I believe it was somewhere in the 230 degree area.There is room to install an auxiliary fan in front of the radiator, and it would be hidden from view as the shelf where the hood latch and springs are located would shield it from above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dstaton Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the advice, Starfire people.I will definitely follow the 160-180 routine, as more than half the fun is the wrenching. And the electric fan is a perfect solution. Thanks, Dave and Mike.Not complaining, but Fusick's told me to call NAPA, who couldn't help. Nor could myriad internet investigatees. I have ordered a part, eventually. If it works, I will let you all know, but at this time, Ken Freeman at www.eastwestautoparts.com is my hero, and the possessor of the entire world's knowledge of "1962 Starfire fan clutch with A/C" information.Doug Edited January 25, 2012 by dstaton (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) Doug, The manual says that normal operation of the dual Cold-Hot switch is the cold light will go out between 113-120 degrees and the Hot will come on from 236-240 degrees on cars without A/C and cars with A/C 242-246 degrees. This means there are two dual switches that the cars had originally. NAPA sells only one for both Non A/C and A/C cars. The cooling effect with a clutch-less fan would be less air flow. Cars without A/C do not have a fan shroud so I don't know the placement of a four bladed Non A/C fan in the shroud. There IS a formula for the correct tip to shroud clearance and the distance of the fan in the shroud opening. Remember the A/C clutch fan is designed to bring in more air at especially idle and low speed...The engine needs more fan capacity because with A/C cars there is a big condenser out there in front of the radiator slowing down the air flow and dissipating heat to the radiator behind it. Actually the clutch fan starts to hook up when the temperature rises to a certain temperature to bring in more air through the radiator, when it's cold the fan is slipping or de-clutching because it doesn't need to cool the engine as much. Stock engine thermostats are 170 degrees with ethylene glycol, if you use alcohol type ( which I don't know if you can buy anymore ) anti freeze the thermostat should be a 160 degree thermostat. If your car is in good running condition and the radiator is in good shape you are wasting your time and money adding a electric fan. Cars run fine without them when they are in good shape---if the factory thought they needed a electric fan they would have done it themselves. Don Edited January 25, 2012 by helfen (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dstaton Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) Which of these configurations is correct for running upper heater hose between the water pump and the core?Thanks,Doug Edited January 29, 2012 by dstaton (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlh61olds Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) Cannot say for sure. My Starfire with CAC has the hose direct to the core. The D-88 without air has a hose bracket above the valve cover. Maybe the bracket was removed on the Starfire by a previous owner.Either way will work O.K. but to be correct it probably should be hung from the bracket.Some pics to help you decide.DaveThe1st pic of the D-88 is the original configuration.I always thot the wire separators were cool so I re-did te D-88.The 2nd pic is the finished product (even tho it Ain't original) Edited January 28, 2012 by dlh61olds Change text (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dstaton Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Excellent information. Is it true that the placement of the hoses on the heater core is immaterial, ie., which one is on top or bottom. I see both done in various historical images.By the way, how is the breather tube on the right bank valve cover stabilized from rattle? Pic 3 looks like it is strapped to the exhaust pipe somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Which of these configurations is correct for running upper heater hose between the water pump and the core?Thanks,Doug The red engine is correct, The other has other issues as well...like a Alternator instead of a generator.D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlh61olds Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) The 1962 Olds came with an alternater.No matter,the hoses were hooked up from the factory the same way on all 1961-1964 engines whether they had air or not.Yes, the draft tube is connected to the exhaust with a bracket to an existing bolt.I believe the D-88 engine shows the factory heater hose clamp the best. It is attached to a hold down bolt for the intake manifold. Just forward of the scorched paint area.I like the hose from the water pump to go to the top heater core fitting. Moves the water from top to bottom under pressure and keeps the core flushed. No opportunity for sediment to stay in the core,Dave Edited January 28, 2012 by dlh61olds add text (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) The 1962 Olds came with an alternater.No matter,the hoses were hooked up from the factory the same way on all 1961-1964 engines whether they had air or not.Yes, the draft tube is connected to the exhaust with a bracket to an existing bolt.I believe the D-88 engine shows the factory heater hose clamp the best. It is attached to a hold down bolt for the intake manifold. Just forward of the scorched paint area.I like the hose from the water pump to go to the top heater core fitting. Moves the water from top to bottom under pressure and keeps the core flushed. No opportunity for sediment to stay in the core,Dave_________________________________________________________________ My friends 62 Starfire has a generator, six of seven of the pictures above have generators...must be a mid year thing?? My 62 service manual shows a generator only/must be a early publication???D. Edited January 28, 2012 by helfen (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlh61olds Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Helfen, you are right, most of the pic's are 1961.Open the hood and you would be hard pressed to tell the diff in a 1961 and 1962.Some of the pic's were copied off the net so I can't tell what year they are either.Some folks switched from generator to the alternator after 1962 .It bolted up to and fit the 1961's nicely.Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dstaton Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Thanks for the advice folks.from starfireelvis last summer:Per the 1962 Oldsmobile Bulletin, dated 2/28/62, all full-size 1962 Oldsmobiles built from that day forward that had air conditioning as an option utilized the Delcotron alternator. The build date of the car can be gleaned from the Fisher Body Plate, in the upper left hand corner; there will be two numbers followed by a letter; e.g., "07A" means the car was built the first week (A) of July (07). Months 9, 10, 11, and 12 would be for the previous calendar year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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