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53 torque ball seal parts


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Getting ready to do my torque ball seal on my 53 Super. Any suggestions on who to get the parts kit from. Also is there any thing else I will need other than the parts kit.

Here are a few I vendors I found.

Any input is appreciated

1953-60 Dynaflow Transmission Rear Leak Seal Kit Torque Ball Retainer FREE SHIP | eBay

1953-60 Dynaflow Transmission Rear Leak Seal Kit Torque Ball Retainer FREE SHIP | eBay

DYNAFLOW TRANSMISSION TORQUE BALL SEAL BOOT KIT 1953-1955

Dynaflow Torque Ball Retainer

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DYNAFLOW TRANSMISSION TORQUE BALL SEAL BOOT KIT 1953-1955<----do not use this one unless you have the original metal outer torque ball retainer, want to spent hours adjusting, and then have leaks as a reward for your troubles. The other kits will serve you well. Other vendors with quality products are Fatsco and Bob's Automobilia.

Willie

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hey guys if any one is still following this thread I have a few new questions.

I read the aticle in the December 2009 Buick Bugle by Aaron Toth. In the article he mentions a spring loaded propeller shaft seal that should be on the shaft ( In his case it was missing from a previous repair).

I am not seeing one on mine either, just a standard looking seal pressed in to the end of the torque tube flange around the prop shaft.

I am assuming the seal that came with my fatsco kit replaces this.

Would This application be different on mine because it is a super with a V8 and his is a 53 special?.

Also, do I need a prop shaft spline seal or any thing else?

Thanks

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Hey there...I'm Aaron...

The seal kit should be the same between your Super and my Special. The seal from Fatsco will go into the torque tube flange around the prop shaft. The one that seals the splines does not come with the kit. I bought mine from Bob's Automobilia, and as mentioned in the article, made up the spring and washers from a used master cylinder rebuild kit (the 5 dollar variety). From what I remember, my Dad had to ream out the washers to fit over the shaft, but it wasn't too big of a deal. Bob's may even have those springs. Good luck! Oh yeah, one thing you may want to check...if your prop shaft has a groove worn in it from the old seal, you might want to see if the new seal will ride in that same location. You know how things pop into your mind after you're done with a job? Additionally, you might want to lube the rubber side of the torque ball retainer with some Vaseline or something. I used trans. fluid on mine, and on cold mornings, the first time out of the driveway, it makes a groaning sound as it articulates. It's fine after that.

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Aaron,

does the torque ball boot get reused at all or discarded?

I was looking at the shop manual further and now I find myself more confused.

Maybe you or some one can clarify this.

In the attached scan it does not show a propeller shaft spline oil seal for 1953. It says that there is a sleeve pressed on to the prop shaft to close off the splines against the passage of oil.

Would that mean in 1952 they a different style end on the prop shaft that would require the use of the spline oil seal? Does any one know how they are on a 54?

Thanks, Rick

seal 3.pdf

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Rick

Looking at the attached pdf file, yours is like my 55's and you don't need any spline seal, springs, etc. The boot is only needed with the original outer torque ball retainer unless you want to install to make it look original (nobody can see it and it is a pain to install).

All you need is the typical torque ball seal kit like we started discussing unless after disassembly yours is different.

Willie

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Willie,

I think you are right about the spline seal. After reading the information in the manual half a dozen times I keep coming back to the conclusion that the spline seal is unnecessary if the shaft has the sleeve. Sorry to rehash what we discussed earlier, just trying to get as much info as possible.

Thanks, Rick

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  • 3 weeks later...

I noticed in the 53 Buick parts manual that it shows a gasket or shim between the thrust plate and outer torque ball retainer. Is this a necessary part? If so how thick would it have been?

I have the thrust plate bolted on but can see a minor gap between the thrust plate and the outer torque ball retainer. If they are not making even contact I would think this could cause a leak. Any suggestions?

post-80012-143138889134_thumb.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok having a problem.

I installed the new Fatsco torque ball retainer, greassed the retainer and ball with sythetic grease, installed all the shims and tightened by hand with a 3/8 ratchet, I moved the torque ball periodicly while tightening. By the time I get all the bolts tightend the torque ball is so tight that it will not move even with a pipe in the end of the torque ball for leverage.

Do I need more shims? Should I use a different grease?

I can't find any info for a torque ball being to tight, only to loose.

Any suggestions?:confused:

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You need a little more shim at "G". Your kit should have had multiple "shims" , looking like gaskets, different colors for different thickness, for the purpose of this adjustment. Do you have a shop manual? Procedure is pretty clear in my '50 manual. I can post if wanted. Although instructions from a '53 manual might be different.

Ben

Edited by First Born (see edit history)
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There are 3 remaining shims and I installed all of them according to the directions at the torque ball retainer. It is must need additional shims that I can order from Bob's, looks like a four piece kit.

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Ok having a problem.

I installed the new Fatsco torque ball retainer, greassed the retainer and ball with sythetic grease, installed all the shims and tightened by hand with a 3/8 ratchet, I moved the torque ball periodicly while tightening. By the time I get all the bolts tightend the torque ball is so tight that it will not move even with a pipe in the end of the torque ball for leverage.

Do I need more shims? Should I use a different grease?

I can't find any info for a torque ball being to tight, only to loose.

Any suggestions?:confused:

That vulcanized outer torque ball retainer was designed to not use shims. Looking in a 58 Buick book it shows and describes only a gasket where the shims on the previous metal-metal outer torque ball retainer are used. I install mine that way, leave loose until the torque tube is installed then tighten. The rubber on the outer torque ball retainer will take a 'set' after being compressed and will function as designed. When I trailer one of mine I tie down at the lower control arms and the rear axle --- that serves to pull the torque ball back into the outer torque ball retainer and I will have a brief leak until the rubber 'recovers'.

Willie

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I used synthetic bearing grease becauce that is what I had on hand. I think the grease helps with the assembly process. Maybe some one else can say for sure but I think that once in use it will be lubed by the transmission fluid.

Edited by trickrk (see edit history)
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  • 2 months later...
Hey there...I'm Aaron...

The seal kit should be the same between your Super and my Special. The seal from Fatsco will go into the torque tube flange around the prop shaft. The one that seals the splines does not come with the kit. I bought mine from Bob's Automobilia, and as mentioned in the article, made up the spring and washers from a used master cylinder rebuild kit (the 5 dollar variety). SP-132 Seal Kit Additionally, you might want to lube the rubber side of the torque ball retainer with some Vaseline or something. I used trans. fluid on mine, and on cold mornings, the first time out of the driveway, it makes a groaning sound as it articulates. It's fine after that.

Hello, Im Luis Garcia, new to this forum.I`m living in Madrid, Spain, and this makes looking for info more difficult.

My car is a 1951 model56C, and I have the problem of the splined shaft seal (Sp132 kit), that I cannot find where to buy it. Can I use the PS463 sold by Bob`s instead?

Could you, please give me some more info on how you did with the master cylinder kit? .Perhaps some photos or drawings?

Thank you

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