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dean56

1958 continental convertible

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yes i got it running on sunday

Now the fun will really begin. There are some very basic things you need to know about the 430.

1. Fuel delivery failures are not necessarily the fuel pump. More than likely will be a worn fuel pump push rod.

2. You can only replace the fuel pump push rod with one having a bronze tip unless you also change the cam concentric to one from a later than 1962 version of the engine.

3. If you find an elevated coolant temperature problem has shown up, it is probably from the small thermostats between the water pump and block. When replacing the water pump pull those suckers out, they really serve no purpose other than causing future problems.

4. The water pump on your vehicle has a larger by-pass tube than those of later years. There are adapter tubes available to get you passed that issue.

5. Constant vacuum is supplied by a pump on the oil pump. That style of oil pump will not be found in any parts store today. The old pump can be rebuilt or one can used one without the vacuum pump which will require a plug where the line exits the block and pulling vacuum off the manifold.

6. Do not have any work done on the heads unless you know for sure the heads were of later than January 1958 production. The Mercury manuals will give you the casting numbers of the heads affected by a significant engineering change that was made to reduce a valves kissing the pistons issue.

7. Do not assume the engine will benefit from a higher cfm carburetor, it won't.

8. In very hot weather expect to run into vapor lock issues resultant from several issues having to do with fuel pump location and fuel line routing.

More when you find a need to know.

Edited by Jim_Edwards (see edit history)

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i got it running, sounds great, worked on the hyd pump for the top. got it working, top goes up and down, i ended up using power steering fluid in the hyd system, the book said to use hyd brake fluid??, or should i have used hyd jack oil?? i can not beleive the shape that the car is in, next step is to rebuild master cylinder and new brake lines and check out all of the brake system thanks dean

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i got it running, sounds great, worked on the hyd pump for the top. got it working, top goes up and down, i ended up using power steering fluid in the hyd system, the book said to use hyd brake fluid??, or should i have used hyd jack oil?? i can not beleive the shape that the car is in, next step is to rebuild master cylinder and new brake lines and check out all of the brake system thanks dean

You should have used whatever was in your system before you added to it. If it's still brake fluid, you should have used brake fluid. When people rebuild them now they use ATF, but I think to do the conversion from one to the other you need to replace all the rubber components so they're compatible with the fluid. You'll find out soon. Chances are, if you had to add fluid, a rebuild is in your future, anyway.

There's nothing magical about the brakes. Just make sure the booster can for the master cylinder is in good shape. They tend to get pitted and that's where the trouble starts.

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As far as I know most hydro-electric systems all ran brake fluid. I had experience with the GM versions which used it not only on tops, but the power seats and windows. They were run from a central pump which was located in the engine bay on the firewall. The biggest issue was when the actuating cylinders leaked, the leaks would remove paint.:(

I don't know what sort of contamination and compatibility issues will surface running hydraulic oil in a system designed for brake fluid. Viscosity is certainly different.

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Today most everyone converts them to ATF when they restore a car for the reason you mentioned. I've never seen anyone mix the two in a convertible top system, but I have seen someone put ATF in a brake system (said he was out of brake fluid and couldn't get to the store) and it wasn't pretty.

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So I would imagine the OP may experience similar issues the individual did with their brakes.:eek:

Well as an earlier poster mentioned an eventual rebuild may end up being necessary.

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As far as I know most hydro-electric systems all ran brake fluid. I had experience with the GM versions which used it not only on tops, but the power seats and windows. They were run from a central pump which was located in the engine bay on the firewall. The biggest issue was when the actuating cylinders leaked, the leaks would remove paint.:(

I don't know what sort of contamination and compatibility issues will surface running hydraulic oil in a system designed for brake fluid. Viscosity is certainly different.

Today most everyone converts them to ATF when they restore a car for the reason you mentioned. I've never seen anyone mix the two in a convertible top system, but I have seen someone put ATF in a brake system (said he was out of brake fluid and couldn't get to the store) and it wasn't pretty.

I have a central pump hydraulic window system on my 1941 Packard 180 Limousine. I've already restored the pump which was a clump of rust caused by the hygroscopic qualities of brake fluid. I will be changing over to ATF after I completely flush the lines with alcohol and replace all the hoses.

Edit: More info... from the Hydro-E-Lectric website:

"Cars older than 1953 use DOT-3 brake fluid. Cars 1953 and up use brake fluid or automatic transmission fluid. Cars prior to 1953 may use ATF if all new hoses have been installed. CAUTION - brake fluid destroys paint."

Edited by JD in KC
Add'l Info (see edit history)

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im going to need some rubber moldings, where would i start to look, upper rear deck rubber, fender skirt rubbers?????? thanks dean

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what tire should i put on this car 950X14 bias or a radial , i plan on driving this car. i still cant post a pic??? thanks dean

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what tire should i put on this car 950X14 bias or a radial , i plan on driving this car. i still cant post a pic??? thanks dean

If it were my car I'd put the 9:50X14 Bias PLY tires on it, that is if you can find any that large. Radials would probably work okay, but it would be possible you might gets some tire rub on very sharp turns.

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You go to the advanced reply option then go down to the button that says [Manage Attachments]. This gives you an option of uploading photos from your computer or from the internet.

Eric

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The Continental Mark II is a similar designed suspension. All of we Mark II owners that have switched to radials swear by them. Very few of us that actually drive our cars use bias-ply tires.

However, seeing as the suspension is similar you have to be wary of clearances to the upper ball joint. The cross-section of a radial tire is significantly wider, decreasing the gap noticeably.

This is resolved by buying new wheels with a shallower back-set, effectively moving your tires outboard. You really should run modern steel wheels with radials anyway as they are a heavier gauge metal to compensate for the extra sidewall flex of radials.

I believe the problem you may run into is a proper load rating. That convertible is a heavy beast. I don't believe that there are wide white 14" that meet the load requirements. Some people have gone to 15" and run Mark II 15" hub caps, which the Mark III caps were modeled after. Someone did successfully mate a 15" trim ring to the 14" hub caps. You might want to consider that as the P235/75/R-15 Silverstone or Coker Classics fall in the weight range you need.

One last thing. The hub caps tend to creep and bend the valve stem over so far as to cause catastrophic air loss. Use metal stems. They will hold the cap in position until the clasps bite into the inside of the rim, decreasing the common rotation of the hub cap.

Hope that helps.

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dont know what im doing but every time i upload a pic it says upload failed thanks deab

Chances are the image file is too large. Try reducing it a bit and it should take.

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