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1957 Buick Roadmaster directional switch


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Guest Jim_Edwards

First are you sure you need an entire switch assembly? Typically the failure will lie in the turn signal plate yoke P/N 1937410. The switch assembly and the yoke are applicable to all 1957, '58, and '59 model year Buicks. You should be able to find the yoke on ebay from time to time and it may even be possible that Dorman is reproducing it as they have done with many applications for like parts.

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Negative. What you are most likely looking for is the yoke, as Jim and TG have stated. To get to the replacement of that, you will have to remove the steering wheel (horn button and all) It is pretty easy to repair if you have the replacement part. They do show up on eBay quite often. I can check to see if I have a spare one in my parts. If I do, I will PM you and we can go on from there. Good Luck!

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Jim, the part I'm referring to is the switch on the top of the steering column down by the dash.

There's a discussion of it here; several years ago I tried to rebuild mine (twice),

but the bakelite parts were too far gone, and I went with NOS.

If the wheel cancels after turning, it's probably not the yoke,

but problems with the switch down on the column.

TG

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Jim, that yoke which of you speak is from Istanbul, Turkey. I would be suspect that it is original, since he has more than 8 available.

As for the switch itself, the housing is metal, so having the "tabs" broken off seems kind of out of line. More likely, per TG's post, is the bakelite stud that the bowden wire attaches to has broken off, thus making the signal switch inoperable.

Warren, PM me if you need the yoke or the switch. I think I have one of each around here. If you are interested.

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Guest Jim_Edwards
Jim, that yoke which of you speak is from Istanbul, Turkey. I would be suspect that it is original, since he has more than 8 available.

As for the switch itself, the housing is metal, so having the "tabs" broken off seems kind of out of line. More likely, per TG's post, is the bakelite stud that the bowden wire attaches to has broken off, thus making the signal switch inoperable.

Warren, PM me if you need the yoke or the switch. I think I have one of each around here. If you are interested.

Understanding we often have a description problem in this country when it comes to things mechanical I took from the statement made by the mechanic as meaning one of "pin" like portions of the yoke or the more or less arm that acts like a spring to return the switch to an off position, i.e.; cancels the right or left turn indication. Certainly not saying it couldn't be with switch itself but do believe we may all be working on some degree of misinformation thanks to not knowing if the cancelling mechanism is doing its thing or if absolutely nothing is happening when the lever on the steering column is moved in either direction.

In any event, it looks like you have the way to solve either of the potential failures. Now all Warren needs to do as ask the mechanic exactly what he was referring to in the first place.

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Here is a brief history of what has been happening with the directional. It started not canceling on left hand turns less than ninety degrees ( only would cancel after very sharp left turns ). Now it will not work at all, the lever does not want to move. Hope this helps in clearing up the problem.

Thank you all for all your help.

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Jim, excellent response. Right on target. It looks like Warren needs, as the latest post states, the yoke most likely. Based upon his description, if the lever worked, then did not work for the left side, then not at all, most likely points to that yoke being broken and jamming the lever when the turn signal is applied. A broken pin on the switch itself would allow the lever to move up and down freely as well but would not either a) signal - if it was stuck in the neutral position; or B) be continously on signaling left or right, depending on what position the break occurred.

It most likely is the yoke, or the spring that allows the yoke / handle assembly to move and snap back into position when the steering wheel is turned that has failed in some manner. That's my guess on what is happening and why it doesn't work.

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Jim, that is what would happen. The turn signal would stay on for a long time until I made a sharp left turn. In the end it would take many sharp left turns, before it would cancel. Now it does not work at all, the lever does not want to move. I have talked with the mechanic and he said that the tabs being broken was just his guess, as he did not pull the steering wheel. Hope this helps.

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Guest Jim_Edwards
Jim, excellent response. Right on target. It looks like Warren needs, as the latest post states, the yoke most likely. Based upon his description, if the lever worked, then did not work for the left side, then not at all, most likely points to that yoke being broken and jamming the lever when the turn signal is applied. A broken pin on the switch itself would allow the lever to move up and down freely as well but would not either a) signal - if it was stuck in the neutral position; or B) be continously on signaling left or right, depending on what position the break occurred.

It most likely is the yoke, or the spring that allows the yoke / handle assembly to move and snap back into position when the steering wheel is turned that has failed in some manner. That's my guess on what is happening and why it doesn't work.

I think that to be a dead on guess.

One of the things I learned years ago with any vintage vehicle one acquires was there are certain things you buy the next day so to speak for replacements to have on hand when you need them. Turn signal yokes are among those things. We know they are going to give it up sooner or later, and later it may be quite hard to find a proper replacement, and probably super expensive if you do. Same can be said for steering rag joints on cars having them, another learned the hard way.

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