Head light wiring and testing

[Guest scliim]

Looking for advice for testing out one of my head lights on my '26 DB Coupe. The passenger side front fender has the channel rusted open and the wire is exposed leading to the head lamp. Also there has been some rudimentary repairs to the headlight support braket that holds the light onto the fender.

I removed the headlight from the bracket and connected a new wire to the light assembly, and then cleaned up the rusty connections as best i could but still that headlight doesn't light. I think I'm not getting any connection to the ground due to the sheet metal repairs.

So my thinking is that I need to start at the begining and confirming that the light assemply even works assuming it's getting juice via the hot wire....and a ground connections from the metalic base of the headlight. my questions is where on the car can i attach two wires (one for hot and one for the ground), to ensure the headlight works?

Next I need to confirm that the hot wire feeding into the fender isn't shorted out somewhere...as well as finding a good clean place to ensure a ground connections once the head light is replaced, after I confirm the light works correctly. Anyone had issues like this?

[dwollam]

Use a wire with aligator clips on each end to test for ground. clip it to a bare metal spot on the frame or engine and again on the headlight. You could also remove it from the car and do the same direct to a battery.

[Guest 1930]

Like Dave said (sorta) carry your battery over closer to the lamps and use the leads from this just as a first step if needed

[Guest scliim]

would the two posts on the horn work for this...assuming one is positive and the other negative?

[dwollam]

The Positive is ground on your 26 but the neg on the horn circuit is not completed until you push the horn button. Make it simple and test with a battery.