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Anti lock brake light, brake light on and pedal hard


Guest sintid58

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Guest sintid58

On my 1990 Reatta that my daughter drives the anti lock light and the red brake light are on and the pedal is very hard to push. You can stop the car but it takes a lot of pressure. I am not sure where to start and don't have the time to work on it myself but would like to know what I am looking at to get it fixed.

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I agree with Padgett and disagree with Marck.

Even with a totally shot accumulator you will have pressure and braking.

The way the system works is the pressure switch sees low pressure and starts the pump building up 2600 pounds of pressure in the accumulator and then shuts off the pump. The accumulator has nitrogen in it and this nitrogen compresses and gives you the power braking boost. With a shot accumulator you will still have 2600 pounds of pressure so you will have boost but you will loose most of that pressure with just one application of the brake pedal.

It does sound like your pump is not running. This can be caused, rarely by one of the relays on the firewall, but most often by a bad pressure switch first and a bad pump/ motor second.

Remove the connector on the pressure switch, ( the arrow is pointing to the psw ) and look inside next to the pins. If you see even the tiniest drop of brake fluid next to the pins, your pressure switch is bad.

I have both tested good used pressure switches and pump/motors. I after you get the pump running you do the tests and find you need an accumulator, get one on Amazon.com

post-30613-143138761653_thumb.jpg

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I'm just speaking from experience. I had the same problem on a '90, and the new accumulator fixed it.

And for the record, Barney's brake test pointed me to the accumulator.

However, I must disagree with Jim. I've seen it more common that the center relay on the firewall falls down onto the exhaust manifold, melts the relay, and thus short out the circuit to the pump.

Check the Relay before you do anything else.

What is the history of your car, Sid? Where did you buy it? What sort of milage does it have on it?

Edited by NCReatta (see edit history)
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Guest Mc_Reatta
On my 1990 Reatta that my daughter drives the anti lock light and the red brake light are on and the pedal is very hard to push. You can stop the car but it takes a lot of pressure. I am not sure where to start and don't have the time to work on it myself but would like to know what I am looking at to get it fixed.

Car should be parked until it can be fixed!

If you can't trouble shoot yourself, then you are gong to be at the mercy of the shop you take it too.

The chances of finding a shop / mechanic that is knowledgeable of the Teves system and can fix the problem with the least expense is virtually nil.

Any forum member in SD that can help out with a recommended shop or troubleshooting?

Most likely they will want to replace the entire MC with a reman one from Advance or Autozone etc. at a cost of over $1000 (part only) when it will turn out to be a relay, pressure switch or pump which can be replaced easily for a fraction of that price.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest sintid58

All is well and on the road again. We replaced the accumulator and the lights are out and the brakes work great again. Thanks for all the help and advice. Jim I wil keep the pressure switch in my growing inventory. Will probably need it someday anyway.

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I am wrestling with this. No boost (red light never goes out) to me means the punp is not running or pressure is bleeding. Accumulator can reduce the duty cycle but not sure how it could fix an "always on" as opposed to "on when pedal is pressed" red light.

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  • 3 months later...
Guest sintid58

We replaced the accumulator and it worked for a couple months then replaced the pressure switch and the light went out and the brakes worked fine for a day. Now the light will come on and go off intermitently and the brakes get hard also. Any ideas.

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Sid,

I mentioned in my other post back in December that most likely it was the pressure switch but secondly it could be the pump motor. Since the pump is not coming on all the time and building up the necessary pressure, and because you did replace the pressure switch, most likely the motor is worn out. The brushes are not making good contact and the motor/pump needs to be replaced.

You can turn on the key and if the pump does not run, tap the motor will a small hammer and it probably will start. This of course is not a permanent fix but it will tell you that you need to replace the pump/motor.

I only have one good one left.

Jim

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Sid,

I mentioned in my other post back in December that most likely it was the pressure switch but secondly it could be the pump motor. Since the pump is not coming on all the time and building up the necessary pressure, and because you did replace the pressure switch, most likely the motor is worn out. The brushes are not making good contact and the motor/pump needs to be replaced.

You can turn on the key and if the pump does not run, tap the motor will a small hammer and it probably will start. This of course is not a permanent fix but it will tell you that you need to replace the pump/motor.

I only have one good one left.

Jim

Just wondering if these pump motors are serviceable. Are they sealed units or can they be broken down?

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Just wondering if these pump motors are serviceable. Are they sealed units or can they be broken down?

I did take one apart the other day so you can get inside but it didn't look too easy to work on.

Jim

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