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Bob Call

Siezed Engine Release

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I tried it on a stuck 352 Ford FE. The engine was allowed to soak for several months. It didn't work. I eventually used a hammer and brass drift to remove the pistons.

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I used Blaster from Advance Auto parts store. Put asmall amount in each cyclinder on a 42 Mercury that set 45 years. In three days I was cranking it with the starter. It sells by the gallon and has been very good on bolts and nuts on my 42 Continental that this V8 is in. Lee Waldren Fort Myers, Fl

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I tried it on a single-cylinder engine, but the piston was at TDC, so there was little space to squirt the fluid. I did like their idea of using an impact driver on the crank to get it free. I think any "stuck-bolt" fluid (Kroil, PB Blaster, etc.) would do the same thing for less money.

Phil

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I have found a mix of ATF and diesel is the ultimate fluid weapon for this job.

Al

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Ag engines, often on equipment that sits unused for a good part of the year, seem particularly susceptible to sticking, often seriously, to say nothing re' an antique tractor that's been sitting along the fenceline or in the woods for fourty years...

Searching the Ag forums like ytmag or the tractor/old car truck forums on smokstak will bring up dozens, if not hundreds, of favorite recipes for soaking and/or tapping engines loose...

On old engines, where internal parts might be expensive if available at all, delicacy is sometimes better than excessive enthusiasm...

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WHITE DISTILLED VINEGAR in each cylinder. Engine will turn within 24 hours.

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:) Have any of you tried a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf on stuck engines, and would it damage babbit bearings or aluminum pistons?

:) kaycee

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:) Have any of you tried a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf on stuck engines, and would it damage babbit bearings or aluminum pistons?

:) kaycee

Yes

No

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John, I was amazed at what a acetone10-atf90 mixture did on seized brake drum, so I bet it would work great! I dare say it would not influence babbitt, either. That is not professional advise, however. Perry

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Years ago I read of an English collector who was lucky enough to find an engine for a very rare car he was restoring. Unfortunately it had sat in the open for years with no hood or air filter.

He was overjoyed when he took it apart to find someone had poured a can of paint down the carburetor. The hardened paint sealed the engine, keeping out water and preventing rust.

Wonder how you would go about freeing that one? Lol

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Hey Rusty, How-bout paint stripper, after letting it work use an air gun with a solvent.

The white vinegar make's sense with aluminium pistons and potmetal, it'll eat the corosion, the condition of the remaining piston present's a question.

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I watched Corburn Benson use a Stanley steam car on a old tractor that had been sitting out in a field for years,it didn't take to long at all,he just hooked up a line to the engine block in the tractor and let it fill with hot steam once the block heated up they got the crank to turn.I'll PM him and will see if he can add anything to this tread

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Yes Bill that worked real good,,The tractor had close fitting iron pistons,,,alloy pistons need more clearence than iron, so heating cooling is more effective on alloy piston engines,, I'LL get back and write more later,,,this comment will help me find thread,,Ben

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All these methods work only on lightly seized engines. Any engine cylinder with considerable rust will need to come apart. I have had old stationary, tractor, auto, and industrial, engines that mice have had a field day in, and mouse urine is not kind to old iron. One that comes to mind was a McCormick - Deering 10-20. The mouse urine reacted with the iron piston and weakend it to the point that two wacks with a piece of hard wood, and hammer, and the top of the piston fell in. It turned the heavy cast to a weak gray color that you could break apart with your fingers sort of like breaking a Hersheys chocolate bar up, only softer. Dandy Dave!

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I never tried this on a car engine but it works good on motorcycle engines ( H.D's1929 and before I.O.E engine's) after you disassemble the motor is to take out the top motor mount stud and pump grease into it, it will push the piston out,works the same as getting the pilot bushing out off the flywheel just more grease.

I also have to agree with Dandy Dave about the mouse **** as I have beat piston's out with a block only to have it break up

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Be careful,,,the forces generated with greese gun are enormous,,,,get it out,,but can wreck barrell in the process,,,,If you think ,001 press fit vs,,,, ,001 clearence,,,,wow,, Add heat,,,,Ben

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I used engine release on my Continental Durant motor that had not been run since the late 1960's. The engine was seized and would not budge. Used Redlead ( mixture used to clean gun bores) transmission fluid, Marvel Mystery Oil etc and nothing would work. Bought 3 cans of Engine Release, followed directions and waiting the appropriate time, and darn if the engine turned right over with a hand crank. Found I had two cylinders with water in them that had caused the engine to freeze. I for one swear by it that it works.

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Hi,

I tried ATF and blaster, but no luck.

Next will be citric acid.

I'll keep you posted.

Pour CLR into each cylinder and let it sit overnight, should bust the rust ridge and free the engine. CLR won't damage anything!

No need to worry about bore damage from any of these methods of busting the rust ridge because being stuck will almost always signal the need for a boring job and probably new pistons if boring goes beyond using oversize rings to make up for greater diameter cylinder bores.

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Cranking over an engine with an air impact gun will tighten the crank bolt, (thats what they do) In fact it will tighten it so much that it will snap off the bolt!

Been there, done that, and the engine wasen't even siezed.

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rocking back an' forth in Hi gear works best,,,,,provided it isn't auto,,,grr,,,and the engine is in the chassis,,,Ben

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