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1931 Studebaker


Guest Jarka700

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Guest 32mod55

Very nice project! Regarding the rear brake drums, when you reinstall them, do NOT use grease on the tapered axle shaft or inside the hub, clean those parts thoroughly and reassamble them dry. Using grease can cause damage to the hub by allowing it to split or crack if too much pressure is applied to the retaining nut.

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Guest david killam

Hi

re: King-Seeley gas gauge. If you can get a copy of "the Antique Studebaker Review" March-April 2001 there is an excellent article by Bill Cannon. It explains the principle of operation and how to re-build the gauge.

Also "Mac's early Ford parts catalogue has a kit available with the proper fluid and enough air tube to rebuild any car that used the King-Seeley gauge.

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Guest david killam

1931 Dictator Regal. This car was built in Walkerville Ontario. One of 224 built in Canada that year.

The latest picture shows the completed job. Interior is still being finished and I now have a grille badge from Hershey.

I would like to find a transmission or parts for same.

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Edited by david killam
spelling correction (see edit history)
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Guest stude8

Someone mentioned the King Seeley fuel gauge service article in an ASC publication some years ago. Attached are copies of the story.

Unfortunately the .PDF Adobe file exceeds the AACA file size limits and was rejected.

Stude8

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  • 7 months later...
Guest Jarka700
Very nice project! Regarding the rear brake drums, when you reinstall them, do NOT use grease on the tapered axle shaft or inside the hub, clean those parts thoroughly and reassamble them dry. Using grease can cause damage to the hub by allowing it to split or crack if too much pressure is applied to the retaining nut.

Hello,

i did use grease, because i didn't know that. Should i redo that?

Doe's somebody else has the opinion about this question?

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Guest Jarka700

Hello,

does anybody have any idea, how i can install the outside roof textile? Because i dont know how i can do that in the best way...

Thank you

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Jarka

Replacing the roof fabric is a hard job and has several items involved. If this is a sedan with fixed roof that has wood spars from left to right side edges it will need to have metal wire screen like chicken pen fencing nailed to the wood best with heavy staples so no sharp nail heads will be present that might rub through the rubberized canvas fabric. this is then covered with a upholsterers padded underlayment fabric. It can be held to the wire screen with rubberized adhesive in spots and with needle and thread stitches to keep it in place. Over this underlayment the exterior rubberized canvas fabric is layed with the grain pattern running from front to rear of car. The width has to be wide enough to reach from rain gutter strips on each side. There is usually a brass metal nail strip that runs from front to rear on each side that is nailed into the wood frame under the padding and wire mesh. Also there is a metal nail strip across front edge just to the rear of body roof edge metal. All these are to provide good weather proof seal when drive in rain conditions. Since the roof sides curve down from roof top to rain gutter seams the fabric has to be pulled taught and stretched as needed to remove any curls in the pattern. It is good to do this work on a warm day in the sun to help allow the rubber fabric to stretch as needed.

Go over all the original metal nail strips for quality and if bent or broken new strips can be obtained from restoration material suppliers. I did the roof on my 1930 President Victoria 30 years ago and at that time booklets were available that detailed this work. I looked thru several suppliers in Hemmings tonight and only this link LeBaron Bonney Company - Antique Auto Fabrics

has their T-65 Black long grain cobra roofing material listed. They also offer material sample sheets with clippings of all their products under "Closed car and station wagon toppings".

www.RestorationStuff.com lists the Half Oval Molding in brass for the nail strips.

I hope this helps you to decide how to do the roof on the 1931 sedan.

Stude8

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Hello,

i did use grease, because i didn't know that. Should i redo that?

Doe's somebody else has the opinion about this question?

I would strongly recommend that you redo it. It is imperative that they go on without any lubricant. This applies to any car using this method to retain the drums, not just Studebakers.

Terry

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  • 3 months later...
Guest Jarka700

I have a problem,whith my Studebaker.I am not able to regulate the engine.2 front and 2 rear spark plugs are black and colder than those 4 in the middle.Those 4 in the middle are very hot and in light color.Why there is so big difference between those 4 and 4 spark plugs ? What gap should be in the spark plugs ?</SPAN></SPAN>

What does this screw is regulating in the carburetor ?</SPAN></SPAN>

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Thank you for information</SPAN></SPAN>

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What you have is a dual ignition and dual carburation. One coil, one set of points, 1/2 of the dual rotor and one barrel of the carb runs the center 4 cylinders and the other coil, points, 1/2 rotor and other carb barrel run the outside 4 cylinders. Good news is you got 1/2 the motor running right.

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Guest Jarka700
What you have is a dual ignition and dual carburation. One coil, one set of points, 1/2 of the dual rotor and one barrel of the carb runs the center 4 cylinders and the other coil, points, 1/2 rotor and other carb barrel run the outside 4 cylinders. Good news is you got 1/2 the motor running right.

Thank you for information, but i still have questions. My car has only one ignition coil, but distributor has two points and rotor is one. :confused::confused::confused:

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Oh you have the late production 660x dist. Ok set the stationary points gap at 22. Use a timing light hooked to number 1 cylinder. set the steering wheel advance full advanced. set the timing to the 1-8 UDC timing marks on flywheel. Some flywheels will have a punch mark about 3/4 inch before UDC set there. Then hook timing light to number 6 plug and set the other movable point set, but this time set to flywheel marks 3-6 UDC. The stationary points run cylinders 1, 2,8,7 and movable points run 6,5,3,4. firing order 16258374. Points fire 45 degrees apart. Also the carb barrels run 4 cylinders each. The inside barrel feeds the center 4 cylinders 3,4,5,6 and the outer barrel runs the other 4 cylinders. 1,2,7,8. Good luck. Rex Oh just noticed your photos. Your car was made at the change over to one coil. You still have the hole in the cowl for the other coil. Unless someone modified it.

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Guest Jarka700
Oh you have the late production 660x dist. Ok set the stationary points gap at 22. Use a timing light hooked to number 1 cylinder. set the steering wheel advance full advanced. set the timing to the 1-8 UDC timing marks on flywheel. Some flywheels will have a punch mark about 3/4 inch before UDC set there. Then hook timing light to number 6 plug and set the other movable point set, but this time set to flywheel marks 3-6 UDC. The stationary points run cylinders 1, 2,8,7 and movable points run 6,5,3,4. firing order 16258374. Points fire 45 degrees apart. Also the carb barrels run 4 cylinders each. The inside barrel feeds the center 4 cylinders 3,4,5,6 and the outer barrel runs the other 4 cylinders. 1,2,7,8. Good luck. Rex Oh just noticed your photos. Your car was made at the change over to one coil. You still have the hole in the cowl for the other coil. Unless someone modified it.

Thank you for your help, just i didn't understand everything very precisely. Sometimes i don't understand american technical words. So could you explain me what means "the stationary points gap at 22"? Where i should look for "1-8 UDC timing marks on flywheel"? I really aprreciate your help, sorry for reasking :)

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Both points are set to .018 to .024 gap. One set is mounted to the base plate. The other set is mounted to a adjustable plate on top of the base plate. Thats why the stationary set is done first, then the moveable one. Do you have a owners manual? Adjustments are in there. I have high quality reproductions. On the right side of the rear motor mount casting is a removeable plate. Open that up and you will see the timing marks. I know the dist is a pain. I have seen other club members put chevy and mopar distributers on. I even put on a Oldsmobile one to get a 8 lobe cam and use single points.

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In your 4th photo I can clearly see the base points on the left and the adjustable plate on the right. You have to get this exactly right to get all 8 cylinders running right. Not 4 good and 4 close. Or you can send the distrubutor to someone with a distributor machine and have them set them. Of course all your problems could still be in the carb. Make sure it is absolutely clean. I have kits if needed.

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Guest Jarka700

ok. The carburator is absolutely cleaned and rebuilt.I will try to do everything like you have explained. Just i still don't understand "timing light hooked" ? All over discribtions i have translated by google pictures approximatly. Thank you for your time.

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  • 5 weeks later...
Guest Jarka700

Hello, thank you everybody for your help and time. I was able to fix the ignition with your instructions.

When i have bought the car it had two sets of old spark plugs, which i think should be changed. The one set are Champion C4, next one Champion 561 W16Y, i would like to know which would be the best option for my car?

Once again thank you so much for your adviceses, it was really helpfull

on rockauto.com i find Autolite 3076 , its good for my car ?

Edited by Jarka700 (see edit history)
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