ptt Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 What is a good source for wheel bearings for my 1990 'vert? Are they same as Riviera and Allante? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Wheel bearings for a Reatta come as part of a hub assembly. Front is same as Riviera or Bonneville but rears are specific to ABS cars (and cost a little more). I generally get Timken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptt Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 Wheel bearings for a Reatta come as part of a hub assembly. Front is same as Riviera or Bonneville but rears are specific to ABS cars (and cost a little more). I generally get Timken.So, is it a pressed in wheel bearing or bolt-in? Im getting a constant groan/drone that at first I thought was a wheel bearing but it starts around 15mph and gets louder until ambient wind/road noise drowns it out around 60mph. Doesnt really fluctuate when turning either direction. CV maybe? Ill jack it up and wiggle the entire wheel and see if its the bearings or tie-rods. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Is the noise louder when turning one direction or another? This will help explain about the hub and how to replace it if needed.Front Wheel Hub Replacement Instructions*-*ReattaOwner.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 it's a bolt-in type. 3-bolt T45 on the front with 4-bolt rear 15mm. Mine came apart so I had to replace them recently. It's a new hub assy with bearing, hub, studs and all. I payed $40 ea. Mine also had a rubber seal around the bearing so it didnt rust behind it and it came out super easy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptt Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 Is the noise louder when turning one direction or another? This will help explain about the hub and how to replace it if needed.Front Wheel Hub Replacement Instructions*-*ReattaOwner.comNot real noticible difference when turning either direction. I recently replaced the front bearings on my beater '94 lebaron (4-bolts) and it definately had the groan around 35-49 mph. the Reatta is more of a drone sound that increases with speed and doesnt vary much if at all with turning. Havent had much free time lately with many minor RxR derailments at work. I will update when I can get a chance to take a look. Thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kitskaboodle Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I got Timken as well.Took a long breaker bar to get the nuts off though. You can get them at Autozone...Kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 A belt going bad in a tire can make that sound too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 Any new findings on your problem? I am experiencing a similar groaning from the front. Is there a left and right side hub? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptt Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Any new findings on your problem? I am experiencing a similar groaning from the front. Is there a left and right side hub?I havent had a spare minute to even look at the Reatta! My first act will be to lift the front end up and do the wiggle test while the tires are still on to see if theres any play. Then on to grabbing the axles to see if they have any movement. Somethings making it groan and moan and neither side seems to be worse than the other. Probably end up doing both sides whether its axles or bearings...as posted by another, it might be a separated belt in the tires .....Ill post my discovery(s) when I can get to the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 jack the front of your car off the ground and put it in drive and that'll eliminate tires from the equation. It may set an abs light but it should go out after driving the car. this test should isolate it to wheel bearings or the diff (inside trans) you can take a long screwdriver and lay infront of the car and touch it to the spindle as the car is in drive making the noise and see if it's a wheel bearing and put it on the tranny and see if it's there. May also help to remove the wheels after jacking the car (put the lugnuts back so the rotor doesnt try to come off) if you intend to lay infront of it to check the spindles (for wheel bearings) just in case something happens and the car falls it will hit the ground and not run you over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest crazytrain2 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 A tell tale sign of bad hub bearing is if you jack up and grab tire at top and bottom to see if it rocks. Side to side will tell you if it may be a inner tie rod or ball joint. If you opt for hub assembly be sure to get a large torque wrench for reinstalling spindle nut VIP! you can rent from Autozone. Requires 185-190 Ft Lbs. -- wedge a large screwdriver into rotor and against caliper to bear the brunt of the force. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 yeah these sealed bearings occasionally dont do that tho. Mine were good, they didnt rock up and down or left to right and one day i went to put brake lines on the car after it sat for a couple months and when i put the wheel back on the hub fell out in my hand. It never made noise or anything. Also for the axle nut you can also put the wheel back on and put the car on the ground to torque the nut just like you would wheel lugnuts. That puts less strain on your screwdriver and removes the possibility of damaging the rotor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Richard D Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 I began to get a grunble sound from the front, made more noise turning right than turning left. The mechanic put it on a lift in drive with the car idleing. Using a sthescope he nailed it down to the passenger side, they were both replaced less than 4,000 miles ago. Not a name brand, replaced the passenger side with Timken and noise vibration went away. I later replaced the other with a matching Timken, no more problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 Usually when one side is bad the other is not far behind it so it sometimes pays to replace both at the same time. As far as diagnostics, I always found a 4 lane highway at a time when traffic was scarce. I drove the car above 50 mph where the bearing sets up a good "droan noise" and changed lanes both ways looking for a change in the tone of the droan. If you change lanes to the left and the droan noise becomes more apparent or louder, then the right bearing is the culprit or the bad side.........if you bear to the right lane and the noise is louder then the left is the bad side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 Stethescope method is best but hard for many. My rule of thumb is if it is only noisy in a turn, it is the outside (loaded) bearing. If it is noisy straight ahead and in a turn, it is the inside bearing (unloaded). On a Reatta, the rears rarely fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now