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brake problems


Guest Recian
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Well after looking at all sources and needing to pay $650+ to replace my master cylinder I figure i'd consult you guys on your opinions first. This started when I replaced my rear calipers. I had to turn the calipers in for core and closed up the lines with bags and ties and left a bottle on the cylinder overnight. Unfortunately one of the lines I covered got a hole in the bag and the system bled out overnight. I can gravity bleed and it will drip out the back now and the cylinder has 3 outlets. LF, RF, REAR. The LF will crack loose and bleed normally and pedal goes to the floor. The rear will crack loose and nothing comes out and the pedal wont go to the floor. The RF wont even break loose. It's too old and messed up. The RF now drips.. Someone before me had cross threaded the line into the cylinder now that i've cracked it loose once it wont seal back up. So common sense would lead me to believe I need a master cylinder but the teves system is a little different and nobody sells just the hydraulic cylinder seperately or a rebuild kit. Anyone have any ideas?

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i cant turn the key on. Engine and wiring is out. The FSM says bleed the master with key off. I just replaced all 4 calipers and lines since the caliper pistons were seized. Just having line issues.. Someone has re-lined the car in it's past. All the rear lines are re-done and where it goes into the master was cross threaded. I may go down to your neighborhood saturday NCreatta and raid that one in bevells or the master cylinder, trans cooler lines and brake lines.

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i cant turn the key on. Engine and wiring is out. The FSM says bleed the master with key off. I just replaced all 4 calipers and lines since the caliper pistons were seized. Just having line issues.. Someone has re-lined the car in it's past. All the rear lines are re-done and where it goes into the master was cross threaded. I may go down to your neighborhood saturday NCreatta and raid that one in bevells or the master cylinder, trans cooler lines and brake lines.

Well, my experience (despite what the FSM says) is that you have to have the pump running to get any fluid at the back. If the pump isn't running, you won't get anything out.

Go for it. I've been meaning to get back to Bevells and get some more stuff.. an hour drive though each way.. And way out of the way of where I go.

I got you email about the trans lines.. Sorry I didn't respond. Looked at it, made a mental note to respond, then lot the mental note.. :o

Good luck!

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If the fitting at the master cylinder is damaged, you do not need to replace the MC because the lines actually go to the ABS relay box. The ABS relay box bolts to the MC and can be replaced without replacing the MC. You should be able to pick-up the ABS relay box/control for much less than a MC,

I agree with those above. about bleeding/flushing the rear lines. All you need is power to the pump relay, let the pump pressurize the accumulator and when you push the brake pedal, you get constant flow to the rear...... no need to pump.

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thats my problem. i have to bbleed the master first since it bled out. the out to the fronts bleed fine just not the rear one. it was cross threaded so bad i couldnt tighten it back up so it drips but when applying pressure it wont force fluid out so maybe the line end is the issue

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Did you try teflon tape on the threads? You may need to retap the threads with a larger size and add a small section of brake line to adapt it to the system.

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i removed the threaded portion of the cylinder outlet. that came out with a 22mm wrench easy. the threads in this fitting are fine and since someone replaced the rear line they have a splice about 3" from the master. i took it off there and im gona get a small portion of line and replace it with a new 14mm fitting for the cylinder. i pushed on the pedal with this line off and a small amount of pressure comes out. alot comes out the front outlets. i think the cylinder is ok since its got air in the lines and front to rear pressure shouldnt be equal and it changes with pedal stroke which is minimum without having the key on or full system working to bleed it fully but for $15 ill get a spare master from the yard this weekend just in case since i gota get some other parts anyway

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If you will look at the attached diagram you will see there is not any pressure put on the rear brakes by the pistons in the master cylinder (GREEN).

Brake line pressure to the rear brakes (BLUE) is produced by the pump and stored in the accumulator. When needed the pressure is sent from the accumulator to the rear brakes, and the amount of pressure is regulated by movement of the brake pedal.

As you can see in the diagram, without the pump running and pressurizing the accumulator, you will not have any pressure to bleed the rear brakes. Any fluid that may have came out of the rear brake port on the master cylinder was probably due to gravity. If you want to bleed the rear brakes I recommend that you take the advice that others have given you and get the pump running before you attempt to bleed the rear brakes.

post-52331-143138738651_thumb.jpg

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