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'38 questions


Guest J. Murf.
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Guest J. Murf.

Does anyone know what kind of fuse is used behind the dash, that connects at the ammeter? It has a sort of bayonet mount that looks like a bulb socket. All the lights and I think most of the gauges run through it.I,ve always used a coin to make contact(not smart). Has anyone found either the correct fuse or figured out a way to wire in a different fuse setup?

Also, does anyone know where to obtain the gauges necessary to adjust the brakes properly? Perhap rent them from someone who owns a set. If not , is there a good alternative method or setup to use?

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Guest DodgeKCL

All CPDD vehicles I've ever come across from those years used a single 30/35 amp. tubular glass Buss/Little/Fusetron fuse that snapped into an open 'cradle' type holder somewhere near the ammeter. Looks like this,

post-31311-143138717385_thumb.jpg

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All CPDD vehicles I've ever come across from those years used a single 30/35 amp. tubular glass Buss/Little/Fusetron fuse that snapped into an open 'cradle' type holder somewhere near the ammeter. Looks like this,

That was what I was trying to describe. However my car takes a 20 amp version as did those cars older than 1933.

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Guest J. Murf.

Thanks for all input. I'll take a closer look at the fuse holder when I get back to town. Everything looks stock gauge-wise so I'm happy to hear the fuse should be a regular Buss type.

Homemade brake adjusting gauge is very clever. I'll try to duplicate it the best I can.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest J. Murf.

Took another look at "fuse" holder attached to ammeter. It's definitely not a buss type holder. It's a bayonet mounting that looks like a light bulb holder with a socket that has two channels for pins that would be on the side of the fuse . Whatever goes in the socket would be pushed in and twisted like a bulb to catch and lock in grooves at the end of the channel. Above the top of the socket are two tabs apprx. 2" long sandwiched together that are attached to the back of the ammeter connected to a wire.

"Fuse" would fit into socket and the tip of fuse would contact the tabs to complete the "circuit" If I don't put a coin between socket and tabs (not smart) lights do not work.

The only Buss type fuse I see is in the headlight switch. But this looks like an aftermarket switch. I will try to post a photo but I'm tech-challenged, so I don't Know if I'll succeed. Thanks for any help from forum.

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Guest pyrodork

radio shack has those fuse holders, but make sure you get the one to handle 30/35 amps. most auto parts stores will carry it, too, but they will usually charge more.

here is a pic of what you're generally going to be looking for, but usually it will be one wire looped to make a circle. obviously you'll have to clip the wire to install it.

just make sure to find out where the other end of the wire goes!upimg747%5CFuse-Holder-20241.jpg

EDIT:

disregard this pic. this is one style of fuse holder that i thought people were referring to, but it sounds like it's not the one for your car. sounds like it's this style:BK%5EHTB-44I.jpg

sorry for the mixup.

Edited by pyrodork (see edit history)
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Guest J. Murf.

Thanks for help. Things are starting to make sense. Sure would like to locate missing piece that holds fuse. If I use fuse holders as shown how would it fasten to bayonet-type socket so that one end of fuse contacts the metal socket and the other end contacts the metal tab attached to ammeter? Or would I have to somehow use the wires in the holder to make contact? Thanks Forum.

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Guest pyrodork

EDIT:

my manual says:

"The fuse for the light circuit is mounted on the back of the ammeter. The fuse may be replaced by pressing in and turning to the left the knurled cap which holds the fuse in place. Never use more than a 20 amp fuse in lighting circuit. Single horns have a 20 amp fuse in horn circuit adjacent to starting motor. Dual horns have a 30 amp fuse in horn relay. "

the fuse will kind of wedge into the cap, then just shove it in and twist. if you are, indeed, missing the cap, radio shack may have something you can use. see the new pic i just added to the previous post. take a picture of what you have and bring it in with you. you may be able to install the new holder completely if you can't find a cap that will fit.

Edited by pyrodork (see edit history)
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Guest J. Murf.

Thanks for posting that latest photo P.D. The cap with the metal holder with two pins on the outside looks exactly like what I need. I'll get on it a.s.a.p. and check radio shack and parts stores if necessary. Forum is a great resource to fellow collectors. Hope I can return the kindness in future.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest 1isenuff

I don't know if you solved the fuse problem but I had the exact problem with my 37. I used a bolt wrapped in aluminum foil to make the contact ya I know I Know not real smart but what do you do. So when I had the gauges out I cleaned off both the connectors and soldered an in-line fuse holder to It, just the standard plastic in-line you can get at the auto parts. The manual states that it is a----20A. Now the other way is to buy another Ammeter with that little connector and as luck would have it I saw one on ebay for I think $35.00 with the connector good luck cheers

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Guest J. Murf.

Got a fuseholder like the one shown by pyrodork from Radioshack. It is very close to solving the problem, however the size is a bit off. Diameter is good and it just barely "locks" into place, but the holder needs more depth. Aregular size Buss fuse is too long. It won't allow the holder to lock in position. I found a shorter fuse which seems to work but am not sure what the amp. rating is. It just says 32 volts. I may have to look around at more fuse holders now that I have a better idea what I'm dealing with and find one with the correct dimensions. Thanks to all for your valuable suggestions.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest pyrodork

i was taking out my gauges today on my 37 and remembered your question and that this is probably the correct part you're looking for. in my car, it held a 20a fuse. the inside is completely hollow.

good luck!

i do have a question, though... i'm trying to remove the entire dash and i'm seeing these bolts from underneath up by the windshield that have half-moon shaped nuts(?) on them. i'm just wondering how to get these off. looks like there's 5 or 6 of them, probably, but i don't see a screw head on the outside. i think that's the only thing keeping it on at this point. would like to work on re-graining it over the winter.

post-74472-143138762503_thumb.jpg

post-74472-143138762506_thumb.jpg

post-74472-143138762508_thumb.jpg

Edited by pyrodork (see edit history)
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Guest J. Murf.

Thanks for showing the proper fuse hold photo. Now know what original looks like. If anyone out there has one lying around please let me know.

Looked at my '38 coupe dash. It seems to be held on with 10 screws along the top.(My windshield moulding is temporarily removed so all are visible). These fasten the top of dash to the body (cowl) near windshield channel. Screws appear to be self tapping without nuts.On either end of dash there is a larger screw and nut that attach dash to brackets on side of bulkhead. And of course the steering column is fastened by 2 nuts and bolts and a bracket.

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Guest pyrodork

if you'd like any more pics, now is the time to ask since it's all apart now.

you may want to check ebay or something for an extra gauge cluster that has that part. then you'd have extra gauge parts as well.

that sounds a bit right, but i can't find any screw heads. i have the windshield garnish removed as well, and the windshield cranked out, but i don't see anything (but it is rusty). i can't feel any screw heads, either. perhaps i should try to pound on/wire brush them to see if that dislodges enough rust to show me something. otherwise, i may have to chop them off.

Edited by pyrodork (see edit history)
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