MarkV Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 So, I went out to start the old '48 Lincoln with the merc engine, and it will not start until I spray carb fluid in the carb then it starts for a second then it will shut off, there does not seem to be fuel going to the carb. I unhooked the hose between the pump and the carb and there is no fuel squirting out of the opening when I am cranking the engine. I am thinking that the pump is either clogged or no good. What could be the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Bad pump, or, you're out of gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave@Moon Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 (edited) Bad pump, or, you're out of gas....or a clogged line and/or fuel pick-up in the tank. Try running the car with a temporary fuel feed to the pump (i.e. with a new line out of a small can of fuel). If it works then you know the pump's O.K. Edited October 23, 2011 by Dave@Moon (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Well I was looking at the glass filter and it stays filled with fuel and it does not move from there into the carb... I also just filled up the gas about 2 weeks ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Check your oil level. If the diaphragm is ruptured your oil level will go up. It sounds like a bad pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 So, does anyone know where I can get one of these? It mounts to the top of the engine and has a vacuum unit on it. I also want to replace the metal line between the pump and the carb, as it looks kinked. I also checked the inside top of the carb and it is clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 I'm a bit of a purist, but it sounds like you could use an electric fuel pump with a regulator and bypass the mechanical pump. No more vapor lock. I have electric fuel pumps on my '41 Ford pick-up and '33 Continental. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 So, how do you wire that into what I have? I still have the original wiring, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Mine is wired to a fuse off the battery to a switch under the dash, from there to the pump. The ground wire goes to a chassis or body ground. It's pretty simple to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Hmm, so, how do you prevent too much gas from going into the carb from the pump? I am looking at a few which pump out 5-8 psi. It will also do 60 GPH full open, will this work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidAU Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 (edited) No. the carb will only handle about 1 1/2 to 2 PSI so unless you get a low pressure pump you should install a regulator if you are going to put a normal electric pump on it.You can buy new fuel pumps at C & G Ford Parts in CA or a fuel pump kit to re build yours. You should also look at the flexible fuel hose from the firewall to the pump as the original ones cannot handle ethanol fuel and collapse inside blocking the hose. C & G lists these as well. https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlvry40//ufolder/ShowProducts.php?c=1&s=15&g=119&t=879https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlvry40//ufolder/ShowProducts.php?c=1&s=15&g=120&t=901Another thing you should look at is the pushrod that operates the pump as these wear shorter over the years and in the finish dont move up and down far enough to pump the gas. they can be repaired by welding a 1/4" on the top end and dressing them up. To test the pump you have, unbolt it from the manifold, remove the fuel line to the carb and with it still hooked to the flexible line push the lever underneath in and out and you will soon see if it is working. Edited October 23, 2011 by DavidAU (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 None of the pumps listed match what I have, the pushrod goes up and down like it should and it does not look worn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 In answer to your question, the float rises when fuel is present and closes off the needle valve. Too high a psi will open the needle valve and flood the carb, hence the pressure regulator.Repairing the old pump will work fine, but won't overcome vapor lock problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 So, where is a good place to pick one of these electric pumps up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 I got mine from NAPA. I got the regulator there, too. You don't need a big pump. The bigger they are the noisier, I've found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Rebuild your pump, If you go with the electric ,bad things will happen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Like what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 how could that be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 You should be able to rebuild,or replace your original pump.Electric fuel pumps, without a regulator,will cause fires,flooding,carb leaks,to list a few problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 (edited) Chicken Little, much? Everyone said he should use a regulator. Why try and scare the guy? Edited October 24, 2011 by Rawja Tone. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Not trying to scare him,the pumps are available,probably kanter.I am a purist as well,and would not think about putting a electric pump on any of our cars.I do not recall 48 Lincoln saying anything about vapor lock?It is his car ,he can do what he wants with it,but in his previous post ,it seemed to run fine on the original fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 All I/we did was make a suggestion that would allow him to use his car immediately. Sorry if that ruffled your feathers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Agree,he does live in sunny cal,we are close to putting the cars up ,probably as well as you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Well the original pump is shot for sure, as when the fuel is placed directly into the carb it starts fine, I am in the process of getting a new original pump, but, would love to have an electric as a back up. Yes I am in S. Cal and I drive mine year round! I could never live in a place where I cannot take them out once a week! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 If you've never had a problem with vapor lock you may be just fine with a rebuilt pump. Howerver, many cars will have a problem with fuel draining back into the tank leading to hard starts. Electric fuel pumps are a great starting aid.There is a bit of caution though. IMO, an electric fuel pump should be controlled by the ignition switch to prevent you from leaving it on and draining your battery. You can solve that by installing a simple relay that's controlled by the ignition switch. That way you're not overloading the ignition switch, but still have proper control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LHazleton Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 (edited) You can buy new fuel pumps at C & G Ford Parts in CA or a fuel pump kit to re build yours. You should also look at the flexible fuel hose from the firewall to the pump as the original ones cannot handle ethanol fuel and collapse inside blocking the hose. C & G lists these as well. https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlvry40//ufolder/ShowProducts.php?c=1&s=15&g=119&t=879https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlvry40//ufolder/ShowProducts.php?c=1&s=15&g=120&t=901David, Great post! I took apart the pump on my '47 Coupe. Lots of corrosion. I found the rebuild kit from the link you posted. Very simple to rebuild except for one thing: Does anyone know how to remove the 2 valves from the upper housing? I'd hate to order the kit & then break something! I included a photo of the valves I'm referring to.Thanks,Lee Edited November 5, 2011 by LHazleton Added picture (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rsd9699 Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 The valves are staked into place. You need to verify that the kit comes with them prior to removing them.Love that new gasoline......Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbking Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 The electric pump can be very useful due to the evaporation of modern fuel, if a few precautions are followed:(1) All electric fuel pumps should have their permanent wiring to an oil pressure switch. I think, but not positive, this is federal law. This prevents the pump from continuing to function if there is an accident and the driver is incapacitated. It is OK to have a push button (momentary) switch overriding the oil pressure switch.(2) As stated several times in the thread, the carburetor will accept a certain amount of pressure without issues. There are two ways to solve this: (A) a self-regulated pump of 2~3 pounds (best) or ( a GOOD regulator (VERY EXPENSIVE). The dial type inline regulators available from most FLAPS from $19.95 ~ $34.95 (depending on the FLAPS) regulate pressure by regulating volume. At full flow they regulate the dialed amount at a GREATLY REDUCED fuel flow. These often will cut down the maximum power of the engine due to fuel starvation. At idle, the pressure is often the pressure of the pump (no regulation). If a regulator is used, go to a race shop and get a racing regulator (last time I checked, about $300.).And yes, I do use an electric pump on some of my collector cars. I am not against them, regardless of how the above may look; just do it right!Jon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rsd9699 Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Based on the picture of the insides of the fuel pump, does the carb show signs of internal pitting?Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 The electric pump can be very useful due to the evaporation of modern fuel, if a few precautions are followed:(1) All electric fuel pumps should have their permanent wiring to an oil pressure switch. I think, but not positive, this is federal law. This prevents the pump from continuing to function if there is an accident and the driver is incapacitated. It is OK to have a push button (momentary) switch overriding the oil pressure switch.(2) As stated several times in the thread, the carburetor will accept a certain amount of pressure without issues. There are two ways to solve this: (A) a self-regulated pump of 2~3 pounds (best) or ( a GOOD regulator (VERY EXPENSIVE). The dial type inline regulators available from most FLAPS from $19.95 ~ $34.95 (depending on the FLAPS) regulate pressure by regulating volume. At full flow they regulate the dialed amount at a GREATLY REDUCED fuel flow. These often will cut down the maximum power of the engine due to fuel starvation. At idle, the pressure is often the pressure of the pump (no regulation). If a regulator is used, go to a race shop and get a racing regulator (last time I checked, about $300.).And yes, I do use an electric pump on some of my collector cars. I am not against them, regardless of how the above may look; just do it right!Jon.I will heed your advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LHazleton Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Based on the picture of the insides of the fuel pump, does the carb show signs of internal pitting?Ron It actually cleaned up nicely, but this model (Chinese?) isn't rebuildable. The valves are pressed in, where OEM models have a small bracket holding them in place. Oh well, time to buy a new one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now