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Has anyone experienced a problem with this?


Ronnie

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I have a video on ReattaOwner.com the shows how to remove the harmonic balancer bolt using the starter. I used the method to remove the bolt from my balancer when I changed it and it worked fine but apparently others have not had similar results.

Harmonic Balancer Bolt Removal*-*ReattaOwner.com

I was just looking at the ratings that visitors to the website have given this video. Only 50% of 24 people found the tutorial useful. I think that is lowest rating of any tutorial on ReattaOwner.com.

I would like to hear comments from you guys on why the rating might be so low. If there is a problem with the instructions in the video I want to remove it. Please let me know what you think.

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I used this trick on a pontiac,it works fine. What I did was to hold the braker bar from sliding as another person turned the key.Pulling it I used large puller to keep pressure on it and still needed to use a large slide hammer all around and slowly it began to slide off.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Nothing wrong with the procedure, just need to realize it doesn't work every time.

Not sure how many ft-lbs the starter motor provides, but the one time I tried it, it wasn't enough to crack the bolt loose. Neither was my high torque 1/2 inch impact wrench. Ended up using a six foot pipe over the breaker bar to get it to budge.

Have since added a 3/4 inch impact wrench to the arsenal thanks to eBay and Harbor Freight at a low cost. Hope it will do the trick next time.

If I didn't have air tools available it would be the method I'd start with. Just add the use of an extension pipe as a back up method for when it doesn't work.

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Like you Mc, I tried my 1/2" impact when I changed mine and it wouldn't do the job. So I had to resort to the starter method to break the bolt loose.

How are you guys holding the flywheel to torque the bolt when you put the balancer back on? I know there is a tool made for it but I don't have one. Finally I got large vice grips to hold it while I tightened it but there must be a better way, other than buying the proper tool. :)

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Guest Kitskaboodle

I had no problem taking the bolt out.

I used a breaker bar with a proper 6 point impact socket (as I recall)

Since I did this by myself I recall that I shoved a piece of wood between the

frame railing and the back of the breaker bar. (where the breaker bar head is)

This keeps the whole shebang from "walking" outward and "popping off" when the ignition is cranked. :)

Perhaps it is possible that east coast guys have a harder time taking theirs out due to rust, salt or corrosion on the roads?

Thanks, Kit

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Perhaps it is possible that east coast guys have a harder time taking theirs out due to rust, salt or corrosion on the roads?

Thanks, Kit

You might be correct. Mine was really tight but rust is not a problem here in Tennessee. Maybe we will here from someone who had problems using the starter and they will tell us if rust was the problem.
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Think the first time I used it was around 1978 (on a Pontiac 400). Remember once it took a while but they always came loose.

As for torqueing it back down, I have heard of people using clothesline but would be concerned about the rod bearing.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Large flat bladed screwdriver wedged into the teeth of the flywheel and against the block will work. Don't allow any slack - you don't want to snap off a tooth.

Assistant really helps for this job.

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Large flat bladed screwdriver wedged into the teeth of the flywheel and against the block will work. Don't allow any slack - you don't want to snap off a tooth.

Assistant really helps for this job.

I tried that but started to worry that something was going to break while pulling that hard on the wrench to tighten the bolt. Large Vice Grip pliers clamped to the sides of the flywheel worked the last time but had marginal grip to keep it from slipping. I guess the toothed ring metal is too hard, preventing the Vice Grips from biting in. If I know in advance that I have to do it again I will buy a tool made to hold it. I hate to buy tools that seldom get used. I don't have the room or the money for them.
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Guest Mc_Reatta

If you think about it, the starter is applying the same amount of force or more on the flywheel tooth if you use it to loosen the crankshaft nut, so the flywheel teeth can withstand same the force applied in the opposite direction to torque it down too.

Don't want any slack so you don't add additional shock forces to the mix. Think the blade of the screwdriver would snap off before the tooth, but I don't really want to find out :rolleyes:

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I tried that but started to worry that something was going to break while pulling that hard on the wrench to tighten the bolt. Large Vice Grip pliers clamped to the sides of the flywheel worked the last time but had marginal grip to keep it from slipping. I guess the toothed ring metal is too hard, preventing the Vice Grips from biting in. If I know in advance that I have to do it again I will buy a tool made to hold it. I hate to buy tools that seldom get used. I don't have the room or the money for them.
After looking at prices of flywheel holders for a 3800, $70-$95, I have changed my mind about buying the proper tool. I think I will stick with Vice Grips or some other tool I have on hand to hold the flywheel.

I think if a person had an old flywheel you could cut a small section of the starter ring and weld it to a piece of flat bar to make a tool that would prevent the flywheel from turning. That will be a last resort for me since I would seldom use it.

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