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Haynes repair manual


wws944

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The Haynes #38031 repair manual targets the 1986-1993ish E-body cars, FWD Devilles and FWD Fleetwoods. I bought one Real Cheap the other day via the Amazon used book store, and just received it today.

As I suspected it is very applicable to the Reatta. Surprised that Haynes didn't make the minimal effort to add a few tiny bits of Reatta-ese. Basically all they would have had to do is paste in a few 'and Reatta' in a bunch of places, add a couple of pages on convertible tops, and touched up a few electrical diagrams.

They cover both the V-6 Riv and Toronado, and the V-8 Caddy engines in separate sections, a fairly decent amount of text on the Teves ABS systems, suspension, interior repair, 106 pages of electrical diagrams, and so on. It is really not bad, though with a cursory scan, there are a few minor mistakes here and there.

Naturally, having the FSM online is a terrific thing. But this is quite handy too. For one thing, one can find things without having to figure out which .pdf the info you are looking for is in...

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Don't waste your $$ on any Reatta manual except the factory (printed by Helm) manual unless you have a need to fill a blank space on your bookshelf.

Even the factory manual has a lack of information on some items.

Also buy the year of your car, there are enough differences that you could be chasing phantoms with the wrong year manual.

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The FSM for the exact year/model is, of course, unquestionably the best - especially considering that we have the wonderful on-line scans. Haynes like to 'punt' in places, to tell you to take your car to a professional mechanic, whereas the FSM *is* for the professional mechanic. And it necessarily does some blending of years and models - which can be confusing for some. But for $0.99, (I overpaid compared to Dave,) it is worth having. At the list price of $25, much less so. For me, it is also interesting to see how the Cadillacs differ from the Buicks and Olds. For example, comparing the schematic diagrams for certain things sometimes reveals surprises. Can't do that unless you buy FSMs for all the others as well.

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As for aftermarket, I prefer the Motor Manuals, they actually disassemble the vehicle in question.

My use for these was generally to have in the vehicle in question "just in case" - they were usually good for things you could do on the road and they fit under the driver's seat even when full down.

Also when considering other makes/models I generally get one of the little manuals to help decide whether to buy.

For Reattae I just have electronic copies of the real FSMs on both laptops and tablets, one is always with me.

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The Haynes #38031 repair manual targets the 1986-1993ish E-body cars, FWD Devilles and FWD Fleetwoods. I bought one Real Cheap the other day via the Amazon used book store, and just received it today.

i picked this up at the autofair this year.it wasn't any help when i had the change the serpentine belt.it does have lots of helpful pictures though.

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Guest Kitskaboodle

Cheapie manuals do have their place. (Haynes, Chiltons, etc...)

If your the kind of person that only plans on doing very basic work

such as oil changes, tune-ups, tire rotation, looking up capacities,

jacking points, fuse box info, etc...than they are generally "ok".

Other than that it doesnt pay to spend the $18-20 bucks on them.

As far as buying them for comparison reasons I'm thinking the cheapie manuals probably do a lot of cutting & pasting from the FMS anyways. :)

Kit

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I recieved my Haynes manual today. It is in very good condition. The only section I looked at was the Teves brake section. It was OK info wise but did a good job of explaining how to flush the brake system as well as endorsing the use of brake pad sealant [to stop brake pad rattle]. Well worth the $4.06 I paid for it [including shipping]...

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It would be interesting to see a copy of the Teves section on flushing the brake system.

The Buick manual does not cover this and I have yet to see anything in print that we might show to others. Maybe Ronnie could put it on his site.

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Both.......... I did not look at your site to review before suggestion we get a copy of the procedure from the Haynes manual.

I have always been reluctant to publish a brake flushing procedure because of the possible libility. Sometimes when you write something, you presume the person on the other end has some basic automotive repair skills. Where do you stop giving instructions when writing a procedure? Is it necessary to tell them a bolt tightens "clock-wise"?

So procedures can be basic or over the top.

I would like to see what the procedure looks like from someone else.

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Both.......... I did not look at your site to review before suggestion we get a copy of the procedure from the Haynes manual.

I have always been reluctant to publish a brake flushing procedure because of the possible libility. Sometimes when you write something, you presume the person on the other end has some basic automotive repair skills. Where do you stop giving instructions when writing a procedure? Is it necessary to tell them a bolt tightens "clock-wise"?

So procedures can be basic or over the top.

I would like to see what the procedure looks like from someone else.

You point out an issue that I struggle with all the time, liability. Liability, along with copyright issues, weigh heavily on my mind when it comes to keeping the website going. I have considered shutting the website down several times for fear of someone getting hurt or damaging their car due to their own actions that are beyond my control.

I want to provide information that Reatta owners are seeking to keep their cars going but the last thing I want is for someone to misuse that information and get hurt.

The copyright issue came to light when Tom informed me he did not want any information on his website duplicated on ReattaOwner.com. I didn't understand that because most of the information on his website is based on the work of others like yourself but I complied with his wishes.

I'm going need to do a major upgrade of the website around the first of next year to keep it operational. At that time I'm going to decide if the benefits the website provides to Reatta owners outweigh the liability and copyright risks before I spend the long hours required to do the upgrade.

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Thanks for posting the page of the manual.

They are only addressing the difference in bleeding the rear. Unless there is another procedure, they do not cover the flushing of the boost unit (pump, booster and accumulator)

In my opinion the boost section of the brakes should be flushed BEFORE flushing the brake lines.

The amount of fluid in the pump, booster, and accumulator is enough to contaminate new fluid added to the resevoir, unless you get it cleaned out first.

Of course, any flushing you do to the brakes is an improvement over old fluid but it would be nice if there was a detailed complete flush procedure printed somewhere.

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