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Help w/ Ignition Switch/Starter


Guest Keith_Milford

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Guest Keith_Milford

This may be a bit long, but I'm stuck and could use some advice/suggestions. Okay, I put the key in ignition and turned it to "on", dash and all accessories came on normally. Turned the key further to the "crank" position, and get nothing. Not only that, but no resistance that you would normally feel when cranking; key will just stay in the crank position and not kick back as it should. You can now turn the key from accessory to crank position and it feels the same all the way. Whatever broke, broke while the key was in the "on" position, as everything is on, and can't be turned off (have to disconnect the battery). So, I removed the steering wheel and everything to get down to the ignition switch cylinder, pulled it out, and it looks fine. There are gear teeth on the end of the cylinder that mesh with teeth on a little rod that moves in and out. At some point, I'm assuming this rod is supposed to push something that engages the starter, but as I said, everything just turns back and forth with no resistance. At this point, I think I need to remove the lock housing aroung the steering column, but I can't figure out how to 1) remove the tilt wheel lever, and 2) disconnect the turn signal wiring harness. Once this is done, I see three star bolts that come out to remove the lock housing. Then, hopefully, I'll be able to see what that little rod is supposed to be pushing against to engage the starter. I welcome and appreciate all comments and suggestions. I jacked the car up to see if there was some way to jump the starter, since the ignition is stuck on, just so I could get the car back to my house. Didn't see any way to get to the terminals, though.

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The start switch is located at the base of the colume . This is what pushes the rod back after you crank the engine over. You have to drop down the steering colume to get at this switch. It is very easy to replace, there is an interlock cable attached to this switch,that is what locks the gear shifter in park. The replacement of this switch comes with the instructions to replace it. It is a easy job.

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You need to get under the dash at the steering column; the ignition switch is down on the lower part of the column.

To start the car, short the big yellow and purple leads together at the starter enable relay behind LH side of instrument panel, left of the steering column mounting bracket.

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To try and jump the starter motor would be next to impossible ,it is tight up against the motor and the wires are up there too. I would try to start this car by using the wires at the base of the colume, at the starter switch. When you get this switch down off the colume,it is held by a couple of small bolts, from what I remember,this should get you home. You will need tools to drop the kick panel,torx,1/2 inch socket and extenction to drop the colume . Small sockets to remove starter switch.

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Guest Keith_Milford

Anybody have a source/part number for the switch? And, was everything I took apart so far a waste of time? I'm guessing yes. Just remove the two big bracket bolts to drop the column?

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What year are you working on?The 1989 year is different from the 1990 year. I have worked with both years and know for a fact that they are not the same. Bring the part with you to match up when you buy a new one.

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Guest Keith_Milford

It's an '88. Here is a pic of the top of the steering column. Is the switch that entire assembly? When I turn the key, I can't see anything moving. I'm having trouble understanding how the key engages the switch. And I really don't understand why the key does not spring back from the "crank" position as it should. Sorry, I'm okay with mechanical issues, but electrical is beyond my comprehension.

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The white part is the starter switch, the Yellow part is the shift cable interlock unit. this is timed with the start switch using a slide system. It is easy to see how it works when you remove it from the base of the colume. You can see the rod in the photo,it runs up the steering colume. This rod is push back up by the starter switch, {the starter switch is made this way} . When you are turning the key the rod is pushed downard,this rod fits into a hole on the starter switch,you can not see this rod because it is under the starter switch. When turning the key it turns freely untill it gets to the cranking postion, when you turn the key to crank over the motor this starter switch is what is SPRING LOADED to push back, returning the key to run.

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If I can recall the shifter interlock is held to the starter switch by screws,the starter switch has to be in correct postion when you put these together. It will be aparent when you start working on this switch.

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Guest Keith_Milford

Don't mean to be dense, but I don't see the rod you're talking about in the pic. I pulled the ignition switch out, and didn't see a rod there either, except for the one with the gear teeth that meshes with the gears in the end of the ignition switch. When you turn the key, this rod moves in and out, and I presume that it engages the starter switch somehow. Also, on the cable interlock part, is something supposed to be attached to that little nub on the front? I can push it in, but I don't see anything that it touches when assembled that would move it. I guess it could be internal, but if so, what's the nub there for?

Ronnie, I'll keep your suggestion in mind. Sounds like a last resort, though, because I imagine finding a good condition steering column would take a while.

Edited by Keith_Milford (see edit history)
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I can see the rod in the photo ? When the switch is lifted off the mountings to the colume the rod has a 90 degre bend in it, this fits in the hole of the switch,the sliding movment of the rod is what operates this swtich,turning the key on pushes the rod down,turning the key off pulls the rod up.

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Guest Keith_Milford

Nemo, I appreciate your patience. I probably won't have time to mess with this again until next weekend, so I'll check closer then. But, I did turn the key and look for anything moving on the column and the switch, and I didn't see any movement of anything. That's why I'm so confused. I'll double-check, though. Thanks again. And I do see the rod in the picture, now.

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Guest Keith_Milford

Okay, I couldn't leave it alone. I have now confirmed that 1) the rod does not move when the key is turned, and 2) if I grip the rod with pliers and push it into the starter switch, the car cranks (although I can't drive it home because the steering column is apart. So...obviously something is broken or disconnected at the ignition switch. So I guess I need to finish disassembling the steering column to see what's up? Can someone give me a link/source for the part?

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There is a small gear on the end of the ignition switch,this runs on a rack .This rack pushes and pulls the rod up and down. There are web sites that show the whole steering colume apart and how to put together.

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When I read Keith's first post I immediately figured he needed internal column parts.

I sell quite a few steering column because of problems exactly like he is having and the problem is the pot metal pieces near the key switch that the rod attaches to get broken.

He needs to replace the column, by far the easiest way.

I am out of gray columns but do have a tan one and a burgundy one for an '88-89.

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When I read Keith's first post I immediately figured he needed internal column parts.

I sell quite a few steering column because of problems exactly like he is having and the problem is the pot metal pieces near the key switch that the rod attaches to get broken.

He needs to replace the column, by far the easiest way.

I am out of gray columns but do have a tan one and a burgundy one for an '88-89.

SEM can fix that pretty quickly..

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When I read Keith's first post I immediately figured he needed internal column parts.

I sell quite a few steering column because of problems exactly like he is having and the problem is the pot metal pieces near the key switch that the rod attaches to get broken.

He needs to replace the column, by far the easiest way.

I am out of gray columns but do have a tan one and a burgundy one for an '88-89.

If he would have done that 4 days ago he would be done and driving his Reatta now...

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Guest Keith_Milford

Of course you guys are right about swapping out the column, but I feel like I'm in too deep to stop now. Wouldn't a used column with used parts be prone to develop the same problem pretty quickly? If not, I'm more than willing to go that route. Jim, I'll email you for info.

In the meantime, I've attached pics of the problem, and, of course, you are all correct once again. The pot metal broke. I had already ordered a replacement part, and even though it states that it is the correct application, obviously it's not. It seems like this little piece is the one they started with, and built the rest of the steering column around it. What a PITA! How much further must I go to be able to repair this? And where can I find the correct part?

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Guest Keith_Milford

If anyone is interested, here is a link for the rack gear, plus about any other steering column part you may need. I ordered the replacement steering column from Jim. Then I'll take the old one out and rebuild it in my own time. Thanks for all the excellent info from everyone.

gm, buick, cadillac, chevrolet, oldsmobile, & pontiac ignition actuators rack03 26001765 | Steering Column Services

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