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64 Riviera T-type


CTX-SLPR

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Yes you read that correctly, I've built a '64 Riviera T-type.

I started building the engine without a specific car to put it in way back in 2004. I was single, living in an apartment, and didn't have the money for another project car but I knew the engine would take me the longest so I started working on it since I knew it was going to be a Turbo6.

The engine:

It's an '84 4.1L block out of an Electra fitted with an Eagle 4340 non-twist forged crank, K1 H-beam forged rods, 3 billet main caps, and a set of custom Diamond forged pistons for it's 3.995in bore. All the machine work was done by ledgendary drag racer and engine builder "Ohio" George Montgomery. I also had him customize the oiling system so the passage on the block face is plugged and a custom billet 3/8in NPT fitting is threaded all the way to the cam gallery to work with the custom front cover I built. The top half is a Stage II dry sump cover while the bottom is off of a Series II 3800. The custom oil fitting I made out of a stock filter adapter leaks so I'll be machining a billet unit soon.

The heads are Champion CNC ported irons which are clamped down via ARP headstuds. 1.65:1 T&D roller rockers, custom TA pushrods, and a comp 212/212 roller camp round out the valve train. The intake is stock for the time being but I do plan on getting a matching Champion CNC ported lower intake and probably a custom upper plenum using an LT1 throttle body for hood clearance.

Currently the turbo is being played by a blank exhaust housing so the headers and downpipe are setup for a functional one. I just don't want to risk the expensive parts while I work the bugs out of the tune and driveline. Headers are customized Poston's for an external gate and I custom made the downpipe. It's a 3in single all the way back over the axle to an F-body 3in in and dual 2.5in out Magnaflow with a Dynomax race bullet in the middle of X as a resonator. I used Dr. Gas oval tubing to keep it clear of the tire and spring going over the axle as I'm planning on eventually fitting much wider tires.

I had to mount the engine 3.5in forward (measured from the bellhousing so the stock (for an LC2) R4 compressor would clear the upper A-arm. I've sinse swapped to a Sanden S7B10 and machined the bracket to clear so I'm going to push the engine back this winter as far as I can.

Enjoy some pictures:

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I also converted the car over to EFI using a 2000 Grand Prix GTP engine and interior harness, ECM, and fuse box. Since the electrics of the car are approaching 50yrs old I just added on whole new fuse boxes and wiring for the new stuff and just use the existing wiring for triggers on switched 12V, instrament lights, and the like. Most of the sensors just bolted right on. I had to get a custom cam sensor cap made and convert to a later model IAC block but things like the crank sensor and knock sensors just screwed right in.

I went into the computer using HPTuners and edited out all the parameters I wasn't using like trans control, emmissions, and the security. I got it running back in Aug 2010 but had big oil pressure issues and ended up just using the fact it was running to get it on and off of the car transporter for shipment to Colorado.

She's running now and while there are issues it works pretty well. I need to fix the electric kickdown and switch pitch since it now works off of the TPS. The timing is way low for the older, more inefficient heads, and I have a high idle problem that I'm trying to work out. I can drive it easily but a good hill will require a downshift into 2nd. Not unsurprising for a 7.9:1 compression 256cid engine with a relatively large cam. The fuel pump isn't coming on with the computer (likely a bad wiring job on my part) and the trans seems to be taking more and more fluid to get it full though no leaks.

Enjoy some videos of me taking it out for the first time, my reaction, and then taking my very understanding wife out as the first passenger! The only previous ride she got was with a very sick 425 requiring the heater running in Aug to keep it from overheating! She was excited and a bit scared since I asked her to make sure the fire extinguisher was in the car.

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Very interesting idea. I kind of cringed at the idea of that tiny 4.1L under the hood of a huge car like that at first but I warmed up to it after watching the videos. It'll never have the generous torque of a good running nail head though and you've experienced what it takes to get up a hill with your current engine. You might want to think about a VVT type of turbo or going for a dual stage set up that will get some lower RPM power. I'm curious what your fuel economy will be like.

Either way don't junk the old 425. You might want to rebuild it and put it back in the Riv.

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Very interesting idea. I kind of cringed at the idea of that tiny 4.1L under the hood of a huge car like that at first but I warmed up to it after watching the videos. It'll never have the generous torque of a good running nail head though and you've experienced what it takes to get up a hill with your current engine. You might want to think about a VVT type of turbo or going for a dual stage set up that will get some lower RPM power. I'm curious what your fuel economy will be like.

Either way don't junk the old 425. You might want to rebuild it and put it back in the Riv.

There is no turbo currently so it's just a low compression V6 struggling with ~3900lbs at high altitude. I expect things to be much better when I actually do install the turbo. I have a stock LC2 turbo in the basement but that'll be short lived because it's way too small for the engine. I'll be stepping up to something correctly sized for my desire of 650hp at 5500rpm and low end power production over max power. Probably going to be a ball bearing unit.

The 425 is either getting saved incase I sell the car (or another project a decade down the road) or sold off to help pay off my house. No junkyards in it's future.

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Makes total sense. No power no turbo.

A smaller turbo on one hand will spool up faster while larger ones take more RPMs to spool up. I imagine whatever turbo you decide on will have full pressure oiling on the bearings. An EGT gauge and boost gauge are necessities as well. An intercooler would be good too.

A tip for driving with a turbo is that you need to idle for while before shutting down for the turbo to cool off, otherwise you risk coking up the bearings.

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The satisfaction on your face in that first drive video is priceless. Anyone who's built something with their own hands knows the satisfaction of starting it up, driving it down the street and then making it back home. These day, most guys can't even change a flat. Long live the do it yourself wrenchhead! PRL

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