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1958 buick pulling power


Guest dutchbuick

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Guest dutchbuick

Hello,

Can anyone help me to factory specs or sales specs from a 1958 Buick not the torque but how much weight these Buick may pull this is needed for the dutch DMV to get the hitch licensed on the papers.

I want to put a trailor/caravan behind it which would weigh about750 kilograms.

If got a 1958 Buick model 48 special 2 door sedan with standard 364ci engine and dynaflow.

If got a kit to change to diskbrakes with '70 buick hardware.

The springs are stronger new ones than the original.

The Hitch will be mounted to the frame not to the bumper.

John-Paul

Edited by dutchbuick (see edit history)
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"Pulling the weight" is quite different from "handling the trailer's weight". Not to mention the need for a weight-distributing hitch for the heavier trailers. There is also the issue of "tongue weight" of the trailer, which will affect how much the rear suspension compresses with the trailer hooked to the tow vehicle.

Towing also builds heat in the transmission, especially on "over-runs" or "coast downs" where engine braking is used rather than the service brakes. Hopefully, the trailer will have suitable brakes on it?

Key thing is that all of the vehicle's systems, other than the engine, have suitable upgrades to better handle the additional weight and length of the total situation. Better brake linings, for example. Stronger shock absorbers. A big automatic trans cooler. An electric trailer brake controller (plus suitable wiring for such). Engine cooling system upgrades. These were the things which people were concerned with back in the 1960s when the prospect of towing something like an Airstream trailer cross country on a vacation.

There are several members who have successfully towed some nice trailers with their '57 and so Buicks. Perhaps if you advised us of what type, weight, length, etc. trailer you were desiring to tow? Plus the particular model of '58 Buick you have?

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

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Guest dutchbuick
"Pulling the weight" is quite different from "handling the trailer's weight". Not to mention the need for a weight-distributing hitch for the heavier trailers. There is also the issue of "tongue weight" of the trailer, which will affect how much the rear suspension compresses with the trailer hooked to the tow vehicle.

Towing also builds heat in the transmission, especially on "over-runs" or "coast downs" where engine braking is used rather than the service brakes. Hopefully, the trailer will have suitable brakes on it?

Key thing is that all of the vehicle's systems, other than the engine, have suitable upgrades to better handle the additional weight and length of the total situation. Better brake linings, for example. Stronger shock absorbers. A big automatic trans cooler. An electric trailer brake controller (plus suitable wiring for such). Engine cooling system upgrades. These were the things which people were concerned with back in the 1960s when the prospect of towing something like an Airstream trailer cross country on a vacation.

There are several members who have successfully towed some nice trailers with their '57 and so Buicks. Perhaps if you advised us of what type, weight, length, etc. trailer you were desiring to tow? Plus the particular model of '58 Buick you have?

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

Do you have enough info to help me further?

Thanks John

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Just for perspective, a 2011 Mini Cooper's rated capacity is 2000 lbs. (909 kg).

You definitely should get a hitch that is mounted to the frame. In the old days, they would have rigged some sort of bumper hitch. I would not personally go this route.

You need an auxiliary transmission cooler. I believe that 58's already had aluminum brake drums so they should stay cooler than cast iron drums. I know they used to run cars with trailers for years like that. Many people would at least recommend a dual master cylinder (if not disc brakes in front). That is your call. I would have electric trailer brakes installed on your caravan if it doesn't have them already. Then you need a wiring hitch on the Buick.

I would say that is the bare minimum.

I've done dumber things than pulling a 1 1/2 ton trailer with a 58 Buick.

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Although older cars may not be rated by the mfg. for maximum towing capability, you might want to review the calculations on this site or other sites before you tow:

RV UNIVERSITY

I don't mean to throw a wet blanket in here, but you need to know this...

If you get into an accident while towing, the police will use standard formulas to determine if you were overloaded. This can result in serious liability and even jail time of the accident involves serious injuries or a fatality.

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Guest martylum

John-I believe 750 KG translates into 1650 American pounds. Not a whole lot of weight for a 50s full frame car.

My biggest concern would be to remember to allow some extra stopping distance for the extra weight. I wouldn't think tongue weight would be a problem unless your trailer is a very unusual design.

I've towed 1200-1300# with my modern Honda SUV which has a custom designed trailer hitch which actually attaches to the rear sheetmetal as there is no separate chassis back there. When I installed the hitch i was somewhat disbelieving at the sheetmetal mounting points but it has seemed to work out well.

Martin Lum

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Guest 75RivGS

The RDW (our DMV equivalent) needs factory specs... you wil need to come up with official (GM or Buick) papers... if not, you will never get a hitch officially registered. RDW is very strict on this issue.

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