1953 Buck Skylark, Misc. Info Needed

September 11, 2011

I have a 1953 Buick Skylark that I am slowly (very slowly) restoring. The chassis is done, but the front suspension still needs to be assembled. I have some questions that I hope someone here on the forum can answer:ffice:office" /><O:p></O:p>

I have been told that there is a flat leather piece (gasket) that goes between the front brake backing plate and the rectangular flange that protrudes into the brake shoe area (I wish I had a picture of the flange to attach here). On a Roadmaster that I dis-assembled long ago, there was a thick oily gasket in this area. But again, I have been told that it should be leather. Can anyone verify this? Since this is a rare Skylark, I want to do everything right. I even went to the extent of having these parts re-silver cadium plated. I had heard there was a guy in middle or northern CA that sold these, but don’t know who that is.
On the subject of gaskets, does anyone know if there is a gasket that goes between the frame and the front hydraulic (knee action) shock?
Is there a rubber type gasket that goes between the front spring lower coil and the A-frame? I know that there is a thick round gasket that rests between the upper coil of the front spring and the frame.
The front coil springs I have are p/n 1335808, but I don’t know if these are the correct springs. The Skylark of course, is a convertible, and these may have come from a 1953 RM Hardtop (long story…). Does anyone know if these are the correct p/n for a ’53 Skylark?
Actually, I would like to purchase NOS springs for the car. Especially, since everything else in the suspension is either new or rebuilt. I have been unable to find any, however. I did find some places that will cut new ones to order. I also looked at comments on the AACA forum concerning suppliers that will cut new springs to order: http://forums.aaca.org/f162/53-56c-coil-spring-replacement-258468.html. There were a lot of comments… but I wound up less sure as to what I really wanted to do. Does anyone know where I might get NOS springs?
An additional comment on the spring dilemma; my goal right now is to have wheels on the cars so I can move it when needed. It will probably be a long time before I drop the engine and tranny in. Therefore, if I have a set built to specs, I may not necessarily know if the springs are correct until I get the full car weight on them.<O:p> </O:p>
<O:p></O:p>One final question; does anyone know if there is a supplier that sells the shims, which are used for proper alignment between the enclosed driveshaft and the transmission?<O:p></O:p>

<O:p></O:p>

I really apologize for such a long post, and thanks in advance for any comments or information,<O:p></O:p>

Michael<O:p></O:p>

1953mack · September 12, 2011

#1. Leather is correct. Use the metal front brake dirt guard for a template. The leather will have the four holes for the backing plate bolts and the 4 edges of the leather gasket should wrap into the dirt guard/steering knuckle edge area.

#2. No gasket.

#3. No gasket between the front lower coil spring and the A-frame.

#4. Part #1335808 is correct for the front coil springs on a 1953 76X Skylark and is a common front spring for alot of other prior Buick years and models. This part number is not correct for a 1953 Buick 76R 2-door hardtop, with or without air conditioning.

#5. I don't know of any source for NOS springs.

#6. Use what you have until you get to the point where the car curb weight is accurate. If the front spring trim dimension is too low, 1/8" shims are available and no more than three are recommended as outlined in the 1953 Buick Shop Manual, per section GROUP 6, CHASSIS SUSPENSION.

#7. Shim kits appear on Ebay from time to time for around $15 - $20.

Al Mack

"900 Miles North of Hot Springs, Arkansas"

g-g-g0 · September 12, 2011

#5 I would certainly speak with Eaton Spring in Detroit. Very knowledgeable and helpful. I started a rather spirited post two or three years ago about 53 Super springs. Search for posts by g-g-g0.

Gary

September 13, 2011

Gary,

Thank you for the recommendation on Eaton Spring. I do have the temptation to have new ones cut, but I am reluctant, because of some of the stories I have heard and also, because of the fact that at this time I just need to get the chassis “rollable”, so I wouldn’t know if there were any problems until I got the engine and tranny in the car, and front end assembled. At this point, this part looks be quite a ways down the road. The original springs already have one of the 1/8 spacers on each side though, so it may very well be sensible to have new ones cut I will have to make a decision.

Thanks again for your recommendation!

Michael

September 13, 2011

Al,

Thank you for taking the time to answer all my questions. Right now the only question I am struggling with is whether to have new springs cut, or as you advised, use the originals and add spacers if needed.

As I replied to Gary’s post though; I do have the temptation to have new ones cut, but I am reluctant, because of some of the stories I have heard and also, because of the fact that at this time I just need to get the chassis “rollable”, so I wouldn’t know if there were any problems until I got the engine and tranny in the car, and the front end assembled. At this point, this part looks be quite a ways down the road.

I looked through some of my old notes and discovered that the Skylark’s springs already had one 1/8 in spacer on each side. So there must have been some sagging at some point in the suspension. I like the idea of using the originals though, and then see at she sits.

Thanks again for taking the time to answer all my questions. You have really been helpful, and I really do appreciate it!

Michael

September 16, 2011

Hi-I recently had the front suspension apart on my 53 Skylark project so i could have the front shocks rebuilt. I concur there is no gasket tween the shocks and the upper frame rail.

On removing the springs I did the job in my shop and the suspension came apart fairly easily (with the engine and transmission in the car) but was the devil to compress the springs to put things back together.

Were I doing it over I would take the car to a front end shop and let them compress the springs with hydraulic fingers to install new springs or just replace whatever suspension parts are worn.

I remember back to the early 60s when I bought a used 55 Buick convertible and took it to a front end shop for alignment-the mechanic installed spacers under the front coils to bring the sagging suspension up to proper tension so he could do an alignment. The hydraulic fingers made it so easy to compress the front springs to safely install the spacer rings.

Martin Lum

53 Skylark

Ben Bruce aka First Born · September 16, 2011

I, too, recently had the front suspension apart on my Buick. Altho a '50 sedan, the suspensions are similiar , probably identical,. There is a section in the Shop Manual detailing measuring the height for spring height. Mine was spot on. This is a 96000 mi car.

and older than yours. All this to say, if mine is any indication, your springs are probably fine.

Ben

Restorer32 · September 16, 2011

Installing spacers does not increase spring tension. It simple increases the overall length of the spring and thus the ride heighth.

September 17, 2011

Hi-I recently had the front suspension apart on my 53 Skylark project so i could have the front shocks rebuilt. I concur there is no gasket tween the shocks and the upper frame rail.
On removing the springs I did the job in my shop and the suspension came apart fairly easily (with the engine and transmission in the car) but was the devil to compress the springs to put things back together.
Were I doing it over I would take the car to a front end shop and let them compress the springs with hydraulic fingers to install new springs or just replace whatever suspension parts are worn.
I remember back to the early 60s when I bought a used 55 Buick convertible and took it to a front end shop for alignment-the mechanic installed spacers under the front coils to bring the sagging suspension up to proper tension so he could do an alignment. The hydraulic fingers made it so easy to compress the front springs to safely install the spacer rings.
Martin Lum
53 Skylark

Marty,

I only had the concern about possible front shock gaskets, because it just seemed funny to bolt them on to bare metal... I can't really defend the thought, but I do go a little overboard at times when it comes to restoring. Speaking of that; I have everything for the front suspension nicely painted, but I think that my efforts to get the front springs compressed will probably ruin a lot of the paint on the springs as well as the A-frames. I have even thought of having the spring’s powder coated because it’s more durable and less likely to flake off as I put the pressure on to compress the springs - but then again I am trying to control my inclination to over do it! I do like your idea about using a hydraulic compressor.

Thanks for your comments,

Michael

September 17, 2011

I, too, recently had the front suspension apart on my Buick. Altho a '50 sedan, the suspensions are similiar , probably identical,. There is a section in the Shop Manual detailing measuring the height for spring height. Mine was spot on. This is a 96000 mi car.
and older than yours. All this to say, if mine is any indication, your springs are probably fine.
Ben

Ben,

Thank you for the affirmation on my existing spring as probably being OK. The Skylark already had one spacer on each side, so there must have been some sagging, but I think I will use them anyway. Down the road, when I get the engine, transmission, and front sheet metal on the car, if I do not have the correct height I will try to locate one or two more spacers for each side.

Michael

PS Great picture at the bottom of your reply!

September 17, 2011

Installing spacers does not increase spring tension. It simple increases the overall length of the spring and thus the ride heighth.

Restore 32,

Thanks for your comments on spring height.

Michael

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