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1930 Ford Sheetmetal Restoration.


Flop
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Hey guys new to posting to the AACA. i am 26 years old from Pittsburgh PA.

This was a customers car. He wants it all stock. Just figured you guys would enjoy some sheetmetal work and the fiasco of new patch panels that i am going through. All the sheetmetal work is tig welded and as close to metal finished as possible.

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needs typical patch panels but man is this car solid

mess

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needs some sub frame work

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gotta fix this hole.seems like it was made with a chisel

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tight gaps are important with a tig welder

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see what i mean by tight?! see that little slit

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this is gonna be a pain !!!

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the ol tape and bondo trick

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filling some random holes

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some holes in the visor

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some kinda mess from ages ago....

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Edited by Flop (see edit history)
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Thanks Keiser!

and we are finished up with the roof.

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my guess was an antenna?

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more random taped up holes i found.

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some more damage

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a few marks left from the stud gun

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these are gonna be no fun. body line doesnt match to save its life

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thanks John

heres another poorly made non fitting heater hole patch panel.

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the mess im working with

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fit

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notice the extra 1/8 inch of bead

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the blue line is how wide it should be.i hammered the hell outa the area on the other side of the blue line to flatten it out so the beads matched

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the bottom piece was really no fun

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Tex i dont have a die that big for my bead roller so we opted to modify the patch

wheel well time. customer decided to put the patch panels we had in for the wheel wells. we had a big debate with all the model a supply house who has the best wheel well patches. these were from snyders in ohio and found out brookville supplies all of these patches. the body lines are no where close to stock but this isnt a points restoration. just a real nice driver.

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trim trim trim

mess mess mess

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subframe cracked and thin

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cut it out!

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patch

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got a nice tight fit

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welded up

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didnt get a pic of the bottom trimmed down

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doneeee

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onto the wheel well next

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wheel well patch sittin in place

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some primer on the subframe and some weld-through primer on the lower part of the patch because i dont know if the patch gets spot welded to the subframe once ya wrap it around or not.

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tacked in .

i usually dont work with that many tacks but for this one it seemed impossible not to. there were alot of variations in where the patch panel wanted to sit and where the og wheel well was so a ton of tacks it was

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finished up!

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another view

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thanks Ben .thanks Pat. been doing this about 3 years now finally starting to get the word of mouth out about the shop. its a one man show so i can only do so much . but in time i think it will grow! some of the work isnt up the AACAs alley but this was and i figured you guys would like to check out the metal work on the Model A.

Next side

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more subframe rusty-ness

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new piece of subframe with some shrinker stretcher action to mimic the stock piece

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sitting in place

finished up the sub-frame welded up and primed. it was a fun piece to make with the curve in it

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this quarter was pretty tweaked. Hard to see if the pic it took a good hit at one point

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file hammer repeat to infinity

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came out pretty nice the body line still need work

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the quality of the panels hahahah

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and we are tacked in

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Edited by Flop (see edit history)
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for some reason i cant find the pic of the finished passenger wheel well

but on to the decklid

someone had a dance on this thing!!

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most of this was stud gun work mostly all the dents were behind braces. and some shrinking hammer here and there

about half way through

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its not 100 percent metal finished but its pretty damn nice in my book

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got the patch panels from macs . JUNK! same as the other ones just on a better piece of metal.

so it needed more subframe work nothing fancy or pretty here

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heres the og piece of body line i have to re weld in after fixing the subframe.gonna keep as much of this around as possible because aparently it is impossible to remake on a patch panel .

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im making my own panels now. so far i have a much nicer start then what i got as a patch panel. i used a piece of 20 guage for the first run just to see what i could make it do and i like the results. switich to 18 gauge for the final product.

i used my beefed up harbor freight bead roller some and conduit to get the crown. wish i woulda started working on these in the begining of the day instead of messing with the patch panels.

i made this up in about 20 mins and quite happy once i get the hard line from the step die out i think ill be good to go

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you can see i started to get the hard line out on the edge. pretty excited about this!!

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stock .mine.repop panel

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alllll taacked in finally!!!

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gotta do the front edge over since i couldnt make a nice break because of the bottom bead.

when i made the patch panel there was no way i could use the sheetmetal break to get a clean edge because of the body line at the bottom so i had to cut the edge off and replace it with a piece i made on the break.

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tacked in

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where a stud gun really come in handy. metal brace and wood in the way .

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Great metal work! You have a lot of natural talent and will go far in the body/restoration business if you want to. There is always a place for good metal work. Too many body shops are strictly pull and replace and can't do the work your doing. Keep the pictures coming we like to see the work progress on the project.

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I can't even light a candle to the quality and craftsmanship of your work in the photos and I "learned" to weld before you were born. I just never practiced what I learned. I repaired a few cracks in the sheet metal on my garden tractor today and it turned out like crap.

Keep up the fantastic work. You're an artist.

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Guest Corvanti

all i can say is: WOW!!!

a master at work... :)

BTW: you're linked up to the Studebaker Drivers Club forum. Some folks will want your phone number very soon!

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thanks 30hupp!!

thanks durrant! you are right about the body shops now a days seems like most cave and pave and dont fix the metal.

thanks dictator. alot of patience and knowing why the metal is doing what its doing and alot of knowing when to walk away when you are frustrated and starting again in the morning. you really cant rush welding

thanks bleach!! i taught myself mig when i was around 15 and got into tig about a year and a half ago .but what an amazing weld tig is on sheetmetal compared to the mig .

thanks corvanti i appreciate the link!!

heres the last of the body

just about finished up with the body today besides bending the edges over the subframe on the new patches.

the passenger quarter was the last piece.

really solid but the break where it wrapped under neath was gone

made a new piece for it

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couldnt figure out how to make it in one long piece so 2 pieces it was

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just about done except for the edge it still needs some more smoothing where it wraps into the wheel well

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and we are just about done with the body!!

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thank "B" picked up the 32 Packard fenders from Ron yesterday and a windshield frame!

i did this car last winter hence the snow

of course it went to the sandblaster on the snowiest day of the year

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and this is what it looked like when it came back and headed back to its owner

this is just in epoxy primer no body filler

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here is a short video of the car on youtube as well

bunch of fenders next!

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Dave Boyer

Thanks for posting the pic's! I really enjoyed them. I've been working away on one my cars for over a year now, I enjoy doing it. I'm no where nearly as skilled at it, as you are. But it make me feel good, to find out we have the same highly modified bead roller :)

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thanks alot guys!!

heres some more pics to give you some tips .i found with model a patch panels they are easier to make myself then mess around with the pure garbage that is out there for these cars.

some work i am doing on a 30 roadster

heres the start! dug inot the driver side cowl today

found a mix of cement and some red oxide filler of sorts

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cut out the mess and found a solid area to work with

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welded up the inner piece and seam sealed it up

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i made the body line on the harbor freight bead roller with the step die and some work to give it crown . way easier to make your own in my opinion then mess with patch panels

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finished up

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this crack is really throwing the alignment of the door off on the bottom. its on the top rail you could say on the quarter panel

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crack open

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craack closed.makes the door fit waaaay tighter to the body

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ground a bunch more useless red oxide out of the door now its loking like a nice solid start!

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figured out why the door was hangin out at the bottom

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all welded up

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some filler. but i would much rather have some well used filler then rust

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half finished ...the rest of the filler.

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gonna have to pull the door to get around the hinges and pull the lock assembly to get around the handle hole

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the next mess

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tex riv .custom work is being done to the caddy for a customer.

will do wrench!

hahahah send me a message willys we can talk

onto the passenger side

this side is way more solid in the subrail dept

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some cement and red oxide type filler

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sandblasted primed and seamsealed the few pin holes i welded up

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begining of the patch

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after the step

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tacked in

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finished up

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Guest Westerly

Looks like the 31 Coupe I have, except mine is gone from the floor, and subrails up about 4", including the rear below the trunk lid. The rest is pretty solid.

I am looking for a body assembly guide, w/pictures of the complete floor pan, subrail attachment, etc. I have no references to go by concerning how the floor looks, or attaches to the rear of the car or sides. Any help would be appreciated. I'm new to these forums and I don't really know how they work, but I am used to email replies.

I am also looking for sources for new subrails, floor pan assemblies, and rear body pieces below the trunk lid.

Any help in my project would be appreciated

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  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

thanks everyone!

heres some more work on a deluxe phaeton !!

some extra holes in the firewall!!

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smoothed out

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firewall from the back smoothed out

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pan i fixed up sitting in place

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a side shot

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heres a truck of daves as of well

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heres the phaeton in primer

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here is daves 24000 orig mile coupe. it has 28000 on it now .original paint on the body .fenders and aprons have been repainted. everything else as original.aaca 1st place in 87 in the original class.

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Flop,

Just saw your work on the web site. Very nice is an understatement. Could you send me a phone number on pm so I can get in touch with you. I have lived in Ct for 24 years now but grew up in pittsburgh. Still home if you know what I mean. Have some cars that need your ability. I am back in town several times a year and can certainly deliver to you.

Thanks,

Joe S.

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