Rob221 Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Well problem with the brakes,need help.I just replaced the accumulator.put new pads front and rear bleed brakes according to instructions from this forum.When i turn on key pump motor starts but never shuts off keeps running,kept waiting for it to shut off but never did.Was told that i need a new pump/motor by the Chrysler Dealer.What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pizzaman7880 Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 A little more information would be helpful. What were the symptoms before you replaced the accumulator. If the pump did shut offf before you replaced the accumulator I think it is unlikely that it is bad now. Did you get your new accumulator from Amazon.com? (it could be bad) or from Larry at TC parts? Have you checked for fluid leaks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob221 Posted September 7, 2011 Author Share Posted September 7, 2011 Thanks for the reply.The symptoms where soft pedal and not much braking from the rear brakes.No i bought a new (Not for Amazon) Accumulator date code was 9/2010.Pump ran all the time before and after i replaced the Accumulator.Amber antilock light on all the time also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob221 Posted September 7, 2011 Author Share Posted September 7, 2011 Btw yes i checked on fluid leaks no leaks.Relays where checked also fuses all seamed good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob221 Posted September 7, 2011 Author Share Posted September 7, 2011 Found the Accumulator here.HYDAC ACCUMULATOR BALLS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob221 Posted September 7, 2011 Author Share Posted September 7, 2011 What would i look for or check and how?Pressure switch,pump,motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pizzaman7880 Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 If you can, get a red service manual (90 and91) and blue for 89. there is almost always one on E bay. There is a special tool --- MST 6163 used for testing the pump pressure. it is a guage and extension adapter MST 6244 that hooks to the HEX pipe between the accumulator and the pump. You need to have between 2320 and 2755 psi. There are just too many steps in the book to outline here. and you need special tools to do many of the tests. After I read your posts I thought you might have internal leakage but that is hard to test for also. I can make copies of the testing pages from the book and email them to you but that will take me a few days to do. email me at don.croner@verizon.net and let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob221 Posted September 7, 2011 Author Share Posted September 7, 2011 Thanks for your reply Don.Sent you an emaiL.ThanksRobert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest My TC Toy Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 Robb221, when you replaced the accumulator, did you replace the rubber "O" ring at the base as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob221 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 Yes the new accumulator came with a new 0-ring.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowancom Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 pizzaman--close-but no cigar.The Miller tool required for the TC is the MST6400.I have one of the few.It has been to England-Germany-Italy-Canada-Alaska and Hawaii.If only I could travel as well as my tester.Rob--When you have a repair manual-and a good brake service person-I would be glad to let you borrow the tester. Where are you.Funny thing is--I have the tester--but NO Teves system.I also have a Chrysler dealer DVD that explains the Teves system as well as anything Ive seen. If you would like one-just let me know. ---Tim Cowanwww.pentrident.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob221 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 Pm'd you cowancom.Thanks Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLanesinNY Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Actually you are both correct. See page 5-9 in the blue manual. The MST-6163 with 6244 are for Hydraulic Pressure testing and the MST-6400 is for the electrical testing. Depending on the test you might only need one or you might need both. I'm still missing the adapter.If pump ran all the time before, I new accumulator would be a good thing, but will not cure that problem. Assuming it's not spraying brake fluid somewhere, either the pump is weak, doesn't have enough voltage or there is an internal leak somewhere in the hydraulic assembly. Even on a normally working system (with key on and engine off) you can hear the pump slow down before it shuts off as the pressure gets close to it's shut off pressure of 2320 - 2755 PSI-Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob221 Posted September 9, 2011 Author Share Posted September 9, 2011 Thanks for the reply.Yeah pump ran all the time before.Checked voltage at pump connector and had 12 volts.No no brake fluid spraying anywhere,have not noticed any leaks at all.Internal leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest My TC Toy Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 It's starting to look like the Chrysler dealer may be correct. If the pump runs all the time and assuming it is building pressure properly, where is the excess pressure going? If there is no external leak it cannot build internally forever. It appears that the pump is not actually building up to the shut dowm pressure because it is worn and bypassing. It may well be reaching close to the pressure but not all the way. The only thing to do now is to check the actual pressure.Good luckBob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob221 Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 Another thing i wanted to let you guys know is that the brake warning light never comes on.Just the Antilock abber light.The abber Antilock light never goes out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest My TC Toy Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 Is it that the red brake light "never" comes on or does not come on after the pump starts to work? I guess the question is whether or not the light comes on when you first turn on the key? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob221 Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 Yes that is the Red brake light never comes on when i turn on the key.The top light on the console. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest My TC Toy Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Have you checked the bulbs. The brake light should come on until the pressure is at 2400 pounds then go out, and the anti-lock light will stay on until the full pressure is reached at 2795 pounds. It seems to be a pressure problem still.Does the brake light come on with the emergency brake engaged? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob221 Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 No i haven't checked the bulbs.I tried the emergency brake and no light.Will have to see if bulb is bad.Maybe pressure switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest My TC Toy Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 If the pressure switch was bad, the lights may not turn off but at some point the pump would still have to shut down. Otherwise something would have to blow to release the pressure. Then, of course, maybe the switch did failed and in turn the excess pressure damaged a seal or something in the pump causing it to run continuously. I would have thought though that there would have been some sort of "safety" in case of that occuring. Maybe someone else can comment on that.You really need to have a pressure test done to see what pressure you are reaching and take it from there. I'm still leaning towards a bad pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Dude Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 I have to agree, it is most likely a bad pump. I had this happen once on my red TC (for those of you who know me) It was on an extremely hot day in AZ during the summer. I basically lost hydraulic pressure in the system and found the pump was running continuously. After the car sat for a while in my garage and cooled down, the pump once again operated properly and has since then, many thousand miles. I'm planning to convert to Vacuum Booster with normal 4 wheel disc brake master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BarelyFit Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Hemi it is my fervent hope that you document the brake conversion as you did the transmission conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest My TC Toy Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 The conversion would be interesting. What about the excess pressure to operate the rear brakes and the anyi-lock fratures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARGYLE Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Rich, I have posted a couple of threads on the brake problem I have on my 89 tc, I live above saratoga springs do you know anybody in our area who can,or would work on the tc's thanks Berney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Dude Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Hemi it is my fervent hope that you document the brake conversion as you did the transmission conversion.It is all there on Allpar.com, the page with the other TC information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johngoodman Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 This discussion brings up an interesting question for me. A few years back I replaced my accumulator/pump/motor assembly to stop a leak on the carpet. It's been working fine, but now the Anti-Lock AND Brake Light are on all the time (they used to go out after a minute or two).The pump is working fine (turns on with key and stops after 20 seconds or so). The brakes are working fine. There is no fluid leak anywhere. I figure it has to be a sensor somewhere... any thoughts?John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 This discussion brings up an interesting question for me. A few years back I replaced my accumulator/pump/motor assembly to stop a leak on the carpet. It's been working fine, but now the Anti-Lock AND Brake Light are on all the time (they used to go out after a minute or two).The pump is working fine (turns on with key and stops after 20 seconds or so). The brakes are working fine. There is no fluid leak anywhere. I figure it has to be a sensor somewhere... any thoughts?JohnWith both red and yellow brake lights on and brake pump working as it should a couple of things come to mind. Replacing pump meant some tugging on the wire harness and your problem is most likely in the cable and very near the brake pressure switch, it could also be the ABS light relay and a really far out but possible cause, the ABS controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Dude Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Hemi it is my fervent hope that you document the brake conversion as you did the transmission conversion.Follow this link http://www.allpar.com/fix/brakes/tc-brake-booster-replacement.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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