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1912 Buick Resurrection Day


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These are basically emails I sent to my Buick buddies....

Subject: Making progress on my 12 Buick

(Sunday Sept 4th) The boss said I could start on the 1912 Buick model 34 roadster before I finish the 15 speedster because it will be a century old next year & we want to have it on the road for it's 100th birthday.

Last weekend, I worked on geting the windshield figured out. It appeared to be a Model T Ford windshield, so I took it to one of my Ford buddies and learned that although it was similar, it was not Ford. He did give me the keeper clips for the glass and gave me a Ford parts catalog with some good drawings to help me find what I need. Then one of my Buick buddies brought over a local body & fender man to look at the lower running board areas that are rusted out on all four fenders. He plans to pick up the car near the end of the month to start working on them. I removed the fenders so maybe he won't have to take the whole car.

Today, I dropped the pan (actually the lower engine case) to clean and lube the crank and camshaft before turning over the engine. This took all morning because the lower case involves removing bolts from the timing gear cover, removing the oil pump tubes, and many (hard to get at) cotter keyed nuts from under the car. It took almost all afternoon to put it back together too.... I refilled the crankcase and the engine is now ready for a trial start.

Mark

Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 10:48 AM

Subject: Re: Making progress on my 12 Buick

Well gang, it runs good!

I got it running this morning before 10 AM and will work on refreshing the tranny & rear end lube next.

I may even go for a ride this afternoon!

Mark

OK, now for the afternoon update...

I lubed the chassis, added some tranny lube, & checked the rear end and it was OK.

I started it again and backed it out the driveway into the street.

Reverse and first work good, but the clutch was so grabby I decided to pull it back into the shop and treat the clutch.

I had to go to four places to get some neatsfoot oil for the leather clutch, but when I looked closer at the clutch, I decided it needs replacement.

I will pull the clutch after I remove the body and send it to Bob Knaak for new leather.

Mark

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John,

Well, it's eleven days travel time over 5576 miles pulling a loaded trailer at about 12 mpg with gasoline over $3.70 per gallon = $1720.00, plus hotels for nine nights would bring it over $3000.00. Since I don't have my cars judged, I would only bring it for display and drive it on the PWD AfterTour. No, I don't think I will be bringing it.

I would just like to see the BCA move the meets East, West, North, & South to give everyone a chance to bring a car. Two in a row on the East coast may make me stay home next time. South Bend is over 4400 miles round trip for me too.

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Hi Mark. Nice to see it is making progress. I will have to get some pictures of my Grand Fathers 1912 model 42 or it might be a 48. He use to do the Red Rock tours in it all the time.

He is 94 now and keeps his driving around town in a Lincoln town car.

Some of you might know him. Bob Hopkins.

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Yes, I believe I have met Bob.... but I don't remember when or where...

Here are a couple more photos of the windshield I got back together last night.

I would like to have it angled back as in the photos, but I might have bugs hit my forehead if I do it this way.

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Yes, I believe I have met Bob.... but I don't remember when or where...

Here are a couple more photos of the windshield I got back together last night.

I would like to have it angled back as in the photos, but I might have bugs hit my forehead if I do it this way.

Do anything, as long as the bugs don't get stuck in your teeth when you smile. ;) Dandy Dave!

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Mark ...quote" I will pull the clutch after I remove the body and send it to Bob Knaak for new leather."

Can you send me this contact info...I had my last clutch done in Kevlar and was not happy with the final results.

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Newcomer,

Thanks, I already have that part. But I need to fabricate the support rod that mounts to the windshield from the center hinge to the frame near the radiator. My windshield is not brass, but it should mount the same way. I need a photo of where this rod mounts to the frame.

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Here's a link to my PhotoBucket album, the first 4 photos should help. I can't vouch for the rod's originality, but it's all I have. It's a two piece affair, with at least the bottom part being iron cover by a brass tube rather than just a brass tube alone. Over the years the iron has expanded and split the brass tube. One photo shows the joint nut. The frame connection seems to be a cast or forged "eye" welded to an iron or steel rod.(much like that found in brake linkage) The window connection is simply the hollow brass tube that was flattened and a hole drill through it. http://photobucket.com/Buick36

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Edited by TheNewcomer
adjusting photo links (see edit history)
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Hi Mark,

On my model 14, there are separate sets of holes for mounting the windshield

truss rods. The set for the slanted frame mounting are located near the center

of the frame so the rods are in a vertical position (lower frame half angled).

There is also a set of holes which double for securing the back half of the

front head lamp mounting stems at the front of the frame. The leading edge

of the mounting stem was riveted on from the factory and trailing side had a

bolt & nut which were removed for the straight windshield frame installation..

I found out that my windshield must have previously been in the angle

mount- when I put the top on and unfolded it. The top was a good 6 or 8

inches shy of overlapping the dashboard.:eek:

I ended up buying new bows and sockets to accomodate the longer top I

need for a vertical frame window installation.

Thanks again for the pics,

Joe

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  • 1 month later...

Mark...thanks for the tip on Bob Knaak...I sent my clutch out, got it back and reinstalled in my 1917 Buick "truck". He did beautiful work and for the first time the 1917 is a pleasure to drive. I put it away as for the winter as our first snow arrived in upstate NY today.

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Bob & Marty,

I love seeing photos of your cars... I need some more "Beauty Shots" for the PWD Newsletter, so don't be shy. Just emial them directly to me...

Bob,

Glad to hear you got your clutch done.. Mine is in Bob's shop right now...

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Although this does not look like much, it took hours to remove the ball studs from the tie rods that allow the rear end to go up and down with the springs.

I checked several Internet sites for replacement ball studs to no avail. I need two with 15/16" ball diameter & 5/8"-18 male threads. Mc Master Carr lists the right ball size but it only comes with 1/2"-20 threads. I also need two drag link ball studs the same size with weld ends.

Does anybody have a source?

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I bought four of these 1" weld end ball studs from Mac's Ford Parts. I will modify two with 5/8" threads for the rear axle struts & use two to renew the steering linkage they were designed for.

<TABLE class="layout-table fillwidth" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=align-left>

<TABLE class=fillwidth cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2><TBODY><TR><TD class=bold>Year</TD><TD class=bold>Part Number</TD><TD class=bold>Required Number</TD><TD class=bold>Unit Of Measure</TD></TR><TR><TD>1928-1934</TD><TD>A3311W</TD><TD>4</TD><TD>EACH</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Cut off old ball, drill out the hole, insert the ball stud and weld it.

Helps to restore original steering feel and response

<!-- -->

</TD><TD style="WIDTH: 229px" vAlign=top align=middle>

A3311W_lGIF.jpg</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

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I picked up the frame from the sand blaster today and immediately applied a coat of primer sealer. My references tell me this car only came in "grey body with matching wheels and blue hood and fenders".

I need to know if the running gear is painted blue. I suspect the correct blue is the blue/black like my 1913 Model 31 Buick.

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Edited by Mark Shaw (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

Due to end of the year business commitments, Wife's Birthday weekend, and getting over a bad cold, I have made little progress since my last post. Today is the day after Christmas 2011 and now that the big day with family is over, I am back on my project. I took this week off work just to work on this car.

I bought a new mask for painting and several Duplicolor spray cans of satin black to paint the chassis parts. My logic here is to use paint that is easy to touch-up for the parts that will see grease, oil and wear & tear from touring with the car when it is done.

None of my cars are show cars; although they are all restored as original except for replacement aluminum pistons for increased HP & reduced wear, modern wheel bearings because the originals are no longer made, and safety items for running on modern roads. None of my modifications (except safety items) can be seen by even the most qualified "experts" because most cannot be seen without disassembling the car.

I used my new mask and painted most of the loose parts and three sides of the frame before lunch today. Although I am still recovering from a bad cold, I couldn't even smell the paint until I finished and removed the mask. For now, I need to let everything dry and get some help to flip the frame to paint the underside. Meanwhile, I will continue to wipe down the previously primed axles with paint prep to degrease them before painting them later this week. I will post photos when all is painted.

Edited by Mark Shaw (see edit history)
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Although this does not look like much, it took hours to remove the ball studs from the tie rods that allow the rear end to go up and down with the springs.

I checked several Internet sites for replacement ball studs to no avail. I need two with 15/16" ball diameter & 5/8"-18 male threads. Mc Master Carr lists the right ball size but it only comes with 1/2"-20 threads. I also need two drag link ball studs the same size with weld ends.

Does anybody have a source?

Mark,

To repair these for Model "A's" what we do is grind down the ball and buy a single ball bearing, soften it with a torch, drill a hole in it and weld it on the stud. Gives a very smooth and round shape to the old stud.

Mike in Colorado

:D:D:D

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Today is New Year's Day and I made significant progress this week during my week away from work. I got the leaf springs back together with "slip Plate between the leaves & everything back together, cleaned, & painted.

Yesterday, I got one of my Buick buddies to help me put the frame back on the axles. It took two guys and lots of finese to get everything lined up, but we got it done. So, I have a rolling chassis again.

Next will be the outside shifter mechanism, then the tranny, engine, etc....

Stay tuned....

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Hey Mark,

Love doing stuff like that, painting the parts and all, coming along great.

Maybe I'll go out and clean the shop or something... BRRRRRRRRRRR

Sandy

Today is New Year's Day and I made significant progress this week during my week away from work. I got the leaf springs back together with "slip Plate between the leaves & everything back together, cleaned, & painted.

Yesterday, I got one of my Buick buddies to help me put the frame back on the axles. It took two guys and lots of finese to get everything lined up, but we got it done. So, I have a rolling chassis again.

Next will be the outside shifter mechanism, then the tranny, engine, etc....

Stay tuned....

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Sandy,

The high today is about 45 degrees amd we got a break in the rain. I took down the Christmas lights, cleaned the gutters, & investigated & fixed a roof leak this morning before the rain restarts.

This afternoon (after a cup of fresh coffee to warm up), I plan to get back to work in my heated shop....

Eat your heart out Sandy!

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Billy,

How about a progress post with photos of your car?

There really isn't much to see in photos of what we have done recently. Of course you can see the current status in my thread below. When the brakes are done I'll stick a new photo in there.:)

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