Headlight Motor/Gearbox/Crank Arms and Linkages, L & R $50ea.

[ESTAVER]

Questions? contact me at estaver1@bellsouth.net

PN = 16507163 LH & 16507164 RH

These units were removed from my '89 Reatta in August of '98. At that time I had tried to order just the "crank arm" from the local dealer but was told that only the entire motor/gearbox/crank arm was available. I fell for their baloney.

Thus... I had two new complete assemblies that I then installed and two old ones to rebuild and use for spares.

These old units had two problems: Bad "clutch" rollers and wallowed out "crank arms".

At that time the spare units were opened up and the "clutch" rollers were replaced with Durlin and the motor brushes inspected and found to be in fine condition.

I just opened up both units today and confirmed that all is well, and I also applied 12V to each, in both directions.

I would use each today on my own Reatta if I still had her, and she needed the work.

I sold my Reatta last year and now do not need these spares.

The crank arms are still wallowed out, but I have suitably repaired other of these in the past by drilling and tapping threads for a set screw through the "hub" over with location of where the "flat" on the output shaft of the gearbox lines up inside the "crank" hub.

Since this motor drive shaft "flat" does not have to be located at the same place as it originally was... (to engage the old raised "dogs" that were cast into the hub)... you can drill your hole anywhere on the hub that is easy to work and that still allows the set screw to land on the "flat".

Install the "crank" on the output shaft and tighten the set screw.

Rotate the manual up/down knob until things line up to install the linkage arm and bolts.

Shipping cost will be determined by the level of service you desire.

Weight for each drive is 2.5 lbs. Shipped from ZIP 29407 Charleston, SC

[Guest Kingsley]

Sending you a PM momentarily - will take them.

[ESTAVER]

These motors sold on 8-29.

[Guest ystork]

I'm looking for both the right and left Headlight motor. Do you have both?

[Jim]

I'm looking for both the right and left Headlight motor. Do you have both?

I have good headlight motors available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com This would be the motors only with good rollers inside but does not include the bellcrank.

If your motors run when you operate the headlight switch but do not open the headlights then your motors are good but you need bellcranks and rollers.

You can tell if the motors are good by watching the knob on the end of the motor turn when you operate the switch.

If you do not need motors there are only two places I would recommend getting the headlight mechanism parts from and they are

Barney Eaton barney@texas.net or

Kinglsey Baker hkbjr@yahoo.com

Both are good and both have the parts you need.

If you need both motors and bellcranks I know Barney has motors and I think Kingsley may also. If you need both the motors and bellcranks, get everything from either of those folks rather than a motor from me and the bellcranks from one of them.

There are two things that go bad on the headlights.

Inside the motor gear case are some nylon rollers and these disintegrate sometimes and the other part is the bellcrank which gets worn out. The bellcrank, or actuator, is located on the shaft coming out of the motor gear box and is a piece of diecast metal about 2 inches long by 1 inch wide.

Open the hood and manually turn the knob on the end of the motor about ten turns then lift the headlight assembly manually and see if the linkage/bellcrank is loose on the shaft coming out of the motor. If it is loose most likely the bellcrank is bad. You should not be able to raise and lower the assembly more than about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. If the assembly does move more than that most likely the bellcrank is bad.

The bellcrank should be tight and not rotate at all on the shaft. When it wears, it starts out as a rectangle hole and then turns to a butterfly shape and then you have a round hole. You will be able to see right away if the hole is not a rectangular shape when you remove it from the output of the motor.

The other part to go bad is the rollers inside the motor gear box. If the linkage is fairly tight and the motor keeps running the rollers are bad. Another way to check if the rollers are bad is if you can manually turn the motor with the knob but the bellcrank does not turn. Do this with the headlight assembly either up, down or while holding the headlight assembly and trying to stop it from opening or closing.

Edited September 18, 2011 by Jim (see edit history)

[Guest steveskyhawk]

Be careful when purchasing headlight parts of any kind. If you search this forum you will find that many Reatta owners have had difficulty with corrosion issues when attempting to do what should be routine maintenance on their headlight assemblies. The most common problem seems to be that the self tapping screws that hold the worm drive cover on, snap off when the mechanic attempts to remove them. If this happens the screws need to be drilled out and replaced with an oversize fastener. They aren't easy to drill out as they are hardened screws. Additionally, all headlight repair kits are not created equal.

I have serviced many headlight assemblies on my own cars and that of my customers. I have never had a problem with screws snapping off. I cant take full credit for my good fortune in this repair. The reason I don't have any difficulty is simple. I am working on corrosion free cars and parts removed from desert southwest cars and use the best hardware money can buy.

If you are interested in one stop shopping for Reatta headlight parts or any part for that matter give me a call. I sell some of the best used parts available in the country and the easiest to install, most reliable headlight kit on the market.

If you have any question whatsoever before or after a sale I am available via telephone every day during normal business hours and into the evening. Often called the "King of Bling" I pride myself on customer service. I will talk you through your repair as you do it if need be.